Question about Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric Single Oven

2 Answers

The oven will turn on, but shuts off after a minute or two and not heating as hot as it should be. There was a code that popped up as F4, but that has not shown up anymore. We don't know how old the stove is as we bought this house 9 years ago, house built in 1964, model# 911 4042590, serial#2H5533560.

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  • pcolalightho Dec 27, 2008

    We have a built in oven, Kenmore, oven turns on and shuts off after a minute or two and shows an error code of F4. The oven was here when we bought the house, 9 yrs ago. We have no manual and no idea how old it is. The model # is 911 4042590, serial# is 2H5533560. I have already checked the breaker box, everything is okay there. Checked the wiring, it is okay. HELP!!

  • pcolalightho Dec 27, 2008

    Thank you so much for all of your help. A person does not realize how much they use their oven and miss it until they do not have one. How spoiled we are.
    Thanks again

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2 Answers

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The error code F4 indicates that oven sensor is not working properly . Also you have mentioned the error is not displaying now then it indicates problem of connection issue .

Since it is 9 years old the problem can be due to short circuit on the main board .

First try to replace oven sensor you need to remove back panel and unplug and replug new sensor. This will cost you $100-150.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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If your range/oven doesn't seem to work at all, check these:

Fuse/circuit breaker Check to see if power is getting to the range/oven. Does anything turn on--even a light? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.

Main wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the range/oven, gets burned and so breaks the connection. Then you may have to replace the power cord to the range/oven, and the terminal block that the wire is attached to.

Range/oven wiring There may be a broken or burned wire at the back of the range/oven. If you repair any of the wires, use only proper appliance-grade wire and wire connectors.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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Fulgor 300 series double oven top oven works fine, bottom oven locked code reads f4. What can I do?


f4 means a problem has occurred with the oven door latch mechanism. Try unplugging the power to the oven and then wait 1 minute and turn back on, this may clear the problem, if not you need to call a qualified service technician for Fulgor products

Oct 30, 2012 | Ovens

1 Answer

Fault codes F1 and F2


Just two work there:
1.- Replace the touchpad or the clock (ERC) if the code "F1" is displayed. Disconnect the ribbon connector to the touchpad. If no code is displayed after an hour, replace the touchpad. If the code displays again, replace the clock.
2.- Replace the oven temperature sensor if "F2," "F3" or "F4" is displayed. "F2" indicates the oven temperature is too hot and the oven temperature sensor is suspect. "F3" or "F4" indicates the oven temperature sensor or shorted or open.

Parts replacement coudl look in www.repairclinic.com

Hope helps.

May 02, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

1 Answer

F3 f4 gaas oven when preheated these numbers appear it beeps and shuts off


Hi, replace the oven temperature sensor if "F2," "F3" or "F4" is displayed. "F2" indicates the oven temperature is too hot and the oven temperature sensor is suspect. "F3" or "F4" indicates the oven temperature sensor or shorted or open.

Jan 22, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

1 Answer

Good Evening, we have a Kenmore flat top elf


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
&%@#%

Jul 21, 2010 | Kenmore 30169 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Clock has never kept time, more recently the burner started cutting off for no reason. This week the oven shut down and gave an error code of F11. We tried shutting off the power to the oven for 15 minutes...


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
%^e

Jan 30, 2010 | GE 24" Built-In Single Gas Wall Oven

1 Answer

I am getting a F4 code and beeping. The beeping


Replace the oven temperature sensor. It is located in the back wall of the oven. 4-6 inches long,up high on the right or left side depending on model. Most can be changed from inside the oven rather than through the back.

Sep 02, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

F1 Displayed and oven coils get super hot.


Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
@#%^

Nov 18, 2008 | Kenmore 30172 / 30174 / 30179 Gas Single...

2 Answers

My oven turns off on me after only a minute never heating up fully


Could be caused by either of following;

1. Faulty thermostat.
2. Faulty thermal cut out switch. (controls power to cooling fan).
3. Faulty cooling fan (not fan inside oven).

Test thermostat by setting thermostat to low temperature like 60 oC. If oven gets much hotter then its a faulty thermostat.
To test cooling fan and thermal switch take oven out and remove top or rear panels to expose components.
When oven gets hot the cooling fan should turn on. If it doesn't then check to see if there is a mains voltage present.
If mains current exist but fan is not turning then replace fan. If mains voltage is not present then its the thermal switch.

Jun 19, 2008 | AEG B1180-4 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

1992 Frigidaire built-in oven with F4 error


f4 is the code for a shorted oven probe try first replacing it

Feb 12, 2008 | Frigidaire GLEB27S7A Electric Single Oven

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