For test the V.35 cables and the Wic1T, i need to make a physical local loop (B3) with a V.35 cable. With the V.35FC cable there is no problems, looping this pins:
J2·T-->J2·S (RD- -->SD-)
the result is that the interface serial changes to looped status.
but the same procedure on the V.35MT cable don´t make the loop. ¿Any solution?Thanks! V.35 pinouts: http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/hw/routers/ps133/products_tech_note09186a00801f5d8e.shtml
If your trying to establish a loopback for the Data Terminal Equipment, you seem to have satisfied the RTS/CTS, DTR/DSR loopback. At the V.35 end of your cable, you need to loopback the SD (balanced pairs) to the RD (balanced pairs), as well as insure that you have a valid clock source. Usually the DCE provides clock on a balanced pair SCT, SCR. towards the DTE. But, when you build a loopback cable or adapter, you can obtain clock from the DTE via the SCTE pair and tie it to the SCT and SCR balanced pairs. A lot of the requirements depend upon the DTE and DCE equipment your testing. Hope this helps...
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I do see a "Signal Gnd" connection on the rear of your Sony and you can safely try a physical "chassis-to-chassis" ground connection to see if this helps. Otherwise, it could be a defective cable box as the cheaply manufactured "wall wart" power transformers are notorious for poor RF and DC filtering which in turn causes the cable box to produce a 60 cycles hum. Good luck!
If it is connected to a DSL modem then chances are that it is the modem dropping the connection every time a spike in line voltage occurs. Might want to try directly connecting to the modem and seeing if it still happens, if so then it is the ISP that you need to contact. If not then your router may be on the fritz.
Serious crackle or noise is a different problem, but a lesser, rustling crackle
is very common with these mics. If you aren't looping the cable close
to the mic, you will run into issues.
What you have to do, is put a small, 1/2' loop in the cable, making sure
that the looped part of the cable is touching the initial part of the
cable. Affix them so they stay that way throughout your
performance/production. The closer you get the loop to the mic, the
As a test, take the mic, hook it up to equipment and listen on
headphones. Start handling the mic, mainly by rubbing the cable, or rub
the cable with various fabrics, listening for the rustle. Then put the
loop in it and do the same thing. It is amazing how much more quiet it
becomes. Try it with the loop half way down the cable and handle the
cable above and below the loop. you can hear the rustling above the
loop, but not below.
Replacement caps are available from countryman directly. The noise is usually indicative of a cable problem. Check the wires where they enter the capsude and at the connector end as well. I believe that countryman has a "refurb" rpogram where they will replace the cable for a nominal fee (much less than a replacement). Caution should be used when storing the mics such that the cables don't get tangled or crimped.
It sounds like you are describing an earth loop problem. I won't go into detail in this post, but try an isolation test first. disconnect everything from the reciever except the sub and try connecting say a BATTERY powered mp3 player or cd player to minimise connections to the electrical mains earth. you could also isolate things by taking your sub to a friend's house and trying it on their system. If it is an earth loop use a process of elimination to find out which two pieces of equipment causes the earth loop. then apply filtering. you can buy earth loop isolation transformers for about AU$26 and I've used one on my sub myself. Theyhave RCA (phono)plugs on each end and they connect inline with the signal cable to the sub amp.
as for the thumping sound it might be the speaker protection circuitry cutting off the amp to protect the subwoofer speaker from damaged. This might be triggered if the earth loop sound is causing the sub amp to overload and clip.
Failing this there might be a dried out overheated electro capacitor in the amp circuit causing the hum. Hav a chat to your local electronics person, who should be able to spot it! Hope this puts you on the right track Happy Hunting!
This is the bane of all home theater installations and its called the "60 Hertz Hum" Most likely coming from your cable company.. Simple test... Disconnect any Coax cables from the outside going into your cable box or tv. Hum disappears. Most likely this is caused by a "ground loop" problem.
The solutions are far and varied. Google "ground loop hum" to find different things to try
check for the ethernet cable attached to this computer. try doing the loop back test
start->run->type cmd-> type the command ping 127.0.0.1
If u get 4 packets sent recived 4 then everything is fine u have some browser or OS issues else if u see 4 packets sent and lost some then prb with the network card or the ethernet cable.
the problem is with your modem....did you tested the local loop from router to modem....are u getting local loop from one modem till router or not...try first checking local loop from modem to router...
If this is seen when you are connecting to a cable box or satellite box like DirecTV through or other such device your issue is most likely a DC ground loop. Here are some suggestions: Video Projector ground loop 1) If you have horizontal hum bars when your projector is connected to a set-top box or other equipment that are on a different circuit or are grounded causing a ground potential between the source and the projector 2) Hum bars are the result of a ground loop, usually caused by cable television that has not been properly grounded Try this to verify: 1) Disconnect your cable television coax from the wall by unscrewing it. 2) Run your Projector and verify that you are no longer getting the lines. If you have verified that the issue was a ground loop by testing the solution requires a DC Ground Blocker style device similar to the below options: 1) Go to http://www.cablesandconnectors.com/02100-02.HTM (part number 2118) 2) Purchase a DC GROUD BLOCKER & ISOLATION TRANSFORMER either from the above or similar electronics store location. 3) Other examples and ground loop explanations for both Video & Audio can be found at the following link for information about ground loop; scroll to Why Ground Loop is a Problem: http://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/index.html 4) Other commercial antenna signal isolators are available on the web or simply see your local Radio Shack 5) Connect the isolator device chosen to your set-top box and hook it back up. You will be back-up and running in no time.