Audio Pulses Off & On at Random (all speakers) (all inputs)
After much troubleshooting & talking with Sony tech support;
I changed the''M'' board (contains audio system signal processing, system control micro,etc.).
Even though all audio outputs of this ''M'' board pulse off & on, as seen on the oscilloscope,(even with the signal paths to the final audio output amps disconnected -- ahead of the muting buffer circuits), I changed the two audio output ICs (in accordance with a suggestion from one of the Sony support engineers).
All applicable supply levels seem OK (audio processing and outputs).
Blocking applicable mute lines, without disconnecting the signal lines to the amplifiers, does not solve the problem.
Immediate muting ''buffer'' stages at the audio output ICs are not falsely activating.
Disconnecting audio signals to the audio final amps and properly blocking muting signal activity eliminated the associated popping / pulsing sounds that accompany the associated audio off on problem; however, I would have to go back to the owner's home & recheck to see if I could still hear a ''whisper'' of the faint sound of this pulsing activity.
Problem occurrs when using any audio input, including the tuner.
Thinking that there might be some erroneous interrupting digital system control message on the serial data buss line,I tried disconnecting serial clock & data lines from the tuners and, additionally, also disconnecting the rear A/V connection board (this caused audio drop out except for the pulsing / popp sound, which likely results from the triggering of the muting buffers by the audio processing operation malfunction). Other sections, such as the line doubler digital video processor, could not be disconnected with any practicality.
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take a look at the speaker,use a multimeter see if the speaker have the rated resistance.( eg .8 ohms) if speaker bad replace if.if speaker good. see if your audio amp is getting power (multimeter needed) set to d.c volts.have voltage then look for the input pin that brings audio into the amp,use a 16 -32 ohms speaker across gnd pin and input pin(bring volume up hi on tv) if audio replace audio amp.
(also look for cold solder) on p.c board before replacing amp.
So that means the TV sets amp is working. You will need to double check the mute and the sound setup menu. Also try a DVD on another input. If the other input works, you have a problem in the audio switcher circuit, or the sound detector in the sound IF circuit. Good Luck
did you check in the set up might set to off, if the settings is ok check the speaker if worn out. now if the speaker is still good at this time you will need to have trouble shooting in the amplifier circuit at the main board weather the amplifier is bad.
how about the amplifier ic does it work, check the supply voltage. then if you know the pin configuration of the ic, look for the input of the ic then bypass the amplifying section. the audio input connect to the connection going to the speaker out. if you can hear a sound from the speaker that was mean the ic is defective.
To add an exterior speaker to Sony KV-13M10, you have to have an AMPLIFIER.
At the back of your TV you will be able to see 3 RCA output namely = VHF/UHF, Audio and Video.
Use an RCA cable and connect to the Audio output.
At the back of your amplifier, connect the other end of the RCA cable to an RCA input labeled Audio - L (left, usually in white color).
Your speaker should be connected to your amplifier labeled output or audio out. The connection type depends on the make and model of your amplifier. The speaker wires usually come in red and black color. red goes to red, black goes to white.
A simple diagram will look like this:
TV audio out -------------> amplifier audio in (left, white color)
amplifier audio out (left, white color) -----------> speaker (black wire)
amplifier audio out (right, red color) ------------> speaker (red wire)
If the mute is ok, you want to check if your have a cable or sat box that the mute on those are ok as well, if so then your looking at a internal issue with the TV that would involve repair.
1. unplug the tv wait 10-15 seconds then plug it back into the wall outlet.
2. unplug any cable boxes or sat boxes that might be causing the issue.
If you still are having issues you might want to check it into a local repair shop near you, but take this advice for what its worth you might wind up paying more for the repair then the purchase of a nice flat panel.
Make sure if you do take it into a shop that there registered with the BBB and do not have complaints registered as those shops could end you paying more money.
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There might be another solution beside the trash can.
You see often with audio problem the fault is the audio output i.c that is gone.
Also in the tv menu you may have speaker on/off, make sure they are on.
If it still doesn`t work then you may want to try the audio out connectors at the back of the set,there may be sound there.
What you`ll need is and audio system with aux/cd/tape input and a rca/phono stereo cable.
Just connect the tv out to any free input and turn up the volume .
By the way the tv audio out may be variable(option in the audio menu) which means that any amplified speakers(computer speakers) could be used as long as you have rca connectors on the end of it.
Hope this will help. Good luck
This is a possible fault in the power supply, and can be a problem with some decoupler caps on some of the boards. The vertical bars and unstability are usually attributed to having high frequency noise and or clocking pulses crosstalking on to the power distribution lines that run through the boards. This can be switching power supply noise, or cross-talk from clocking pulses.
Another thing that can cause your described fault is unstable clocking between the devices that are reading and writing to the data busses. There are a number of data busses running through the set for the boards to be able to communicate with each other.
The tech will use the process of board swapping to service the set, and then do the adjustments as necessary to make sure the new boards match up.
Yes... DLP sets are fairly expensive to service!
This is my personal opinion. If the set is out of warranty, I would change for a Plasma or LCD set. If you compare the performance of these to ther DLP, the difference is very big. From what I am seeing from a service point of view, the DLP's are lower in reliability.
Your problem is somewhere between the tuner and video detector circuit.
The signal entering your TV carries: video,red color,and blue color as well as sychronizing pulses for color and horizontal and vertical deflection ( actually vertical sync. is derived from horizontal sync.) along with burst pulses to synchronize the color. After all these, the sound is an fm signal entwined with a pilot signal for stereo audio. WHAT a mess!
After the audio passes through all this, it is detected and sent to the audio processor.
If any frequency has drifted away from it's value then you loose the sound.
SO... your problem could be in any of the tuned circuits or in the audio processor IC (chip). Any component changing value could creat this problem. Most likely the audio processor IC. You'd need to have the set checked out by a tech to find your problem.