Question about Kirby Heritage II Vacuum

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Replacing impeller?- how do I separate the housing


I have removed the long screw from the front and the shorter ones that come in from the rear. But it still will not separate and appears to be something retaining it in the area of the right front wheel. Any ideas?

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Yep, ( I should have updated the post) I managed to find the screw by getting a little more light. What a lame way to attach the front housing. Took a little while to figure the thread on belt drive shaft, but I managed to get it going yesterday morning.

Thanks

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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Are you removing the rear motor housing?That may expose a screw you may not have known was there.

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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How do you get to the fan on the generation 3 kirby


First remove the handle, next remove the screws attaching the cord, and switch trim plate. The small screw and knob on the handle pivot must be removed to remove the switch trim piece - insert a flat screwdriver into the small slot in the plastic and pop the trim off to expose the rear motor shell screws. Remove the four screws holding the upper motor shell in place to expose the fan housing screws. Remove the five screws holding the fan housing in place, noting their positions. Pry the fan housing off to expose the fan. Hold the fan in place while turning the belt pulley CLOCKWISE to remove it. If the armature turns, it must be held in place with an open end wrench (about 9mm). There are flat spots on the armature just in front of the commutator bars. Pull or pry the fan and associated washer off the armature shaft. After replacing the fan and pulley, put a bead of silicon sealant on the fan housing and replace all parts in reverse order of removing.

Dec 01, 2010 | Kirby Generation 3 Bagged Upright Vacuum

1 Answer

How do I replace the spinning brushes?


When the brushes stop spinning on a Hoover SteamVac, it can be caused by several things. In order to diagnosis why your brushes aren't spinning, please view the diagnosis solution I have done on Fixya:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t4286338-hooverspin_scrub_brushes_always_stop


If you have diagnosed your machine, and found that the internal receptacle is not spinning, then you'll now need to replace your turbine. This tip will explain in detail how you'll need to complete this repair.

Here's what you'll need to complete this repair:
- Hoover SteamVac Replacement Turbine Brush Gear
- Phillips Head Screwdriver
- Flat Head Screwdriver

Step 1. Remove both the clean solution, and the dirty solution tanks from the machine, and press the handle release pedal so that the handle is laying down flat:
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Step 2. With a flat head screwdriver, pry off the rotating brush speed indicator knob:
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Step 3. Unscrew the silver screw that's at the very top of the see-thru suction port where the dirty solution tank rests.

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Step 4. Turn the SteamVac upside down so that the brushes are facing upwards. There are four clips that hold these brushes in place. You'll need to remove the brushes from the machine by squeezing the four tabs while pulling upwards at the same time. The picture actually only shows the two tabs on the right hand side being squeezed, but the tabs on the left hand side are in the exact same location:

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Step 5. Once you've removed the brush block from the machine, there are 4 screws on the bottom that need to be removed. Keep the two silver screws on the very corner in place, you won't need to remove these. Remove the four screws that I've highlighted in red:

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Step 6. Turn the machine back over right side up, so that the brushes are on the bottom. There are two clips that hold the top housing in place. Insert your flat head screwdriver in between the top and lower housing in the rear of the machine close to the rear wheels, and pry upwards to un-clip these clips on both the left and right sides, then remove the top motor housing from the machine.

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Step 7. You'll now have complete access to the turbine. Remove the two silver screws in the front of the unit that hold the turbine in place, as well as remove the front hose from the turbine:

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Step 8. Once you have removed the two screws you'll be able to lift the turbine up. There's a second hose in the rear of the turbine that you'll also need to remove before you can remove the turbine completely. After you've removed the hose, take the turbine out of the machine. You'll notice to the immediate left of the turbine other hoses that connect to a black circular part. This is actually the pump that sprays the water on the floor. If you ever have the problem where the clean water solution will not spray, it's a good possibility that this part needs to be replaced.
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Simply install the new turbine, reattached the hoses and two front screws. When you're putting the top motor housing back on the unit, make sure that the brush speed selector knob that's on the right side of the turbine fits through the **** in the top motor housing. Also before you tighten the two screws that that hold the top housing in in front of the brushes, there's two clips. You'll need to snap the top motor housing behind these two clips. Simply push front of the motor housing until you hear it snap into place.


Chris J.
GoVacuum

Apr 17, 2010 | Hoover F5906-900 Upright Steam Vacuum

1 Answer

I am trying to open the outer casing of the vacuum


There is a push in type flat plastic switch trim cover over the metal housing surrounding the switch.. You must unplug the cord, gently pry around the trim cover and you will find a screw, an irregular one underneath holding the switch in place. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN when reinstalling this one or you will crack the switch.

Once removed the rear housing will come off. Then you will see several new philips round head screws holding the front housing onto the vac.With all screws removed the housing should open easily but there may be dirty film inside holding the halves together. The fan shaft will unscrew revealing the fan, a spacer behind and perhaps two different spacer washers. Install the new fan hand tight, washers and spacers in same order...
Good effort figuring this one out. Please post back with results.

Oct 29, 2009 | Vacuums

1 Answer

Replace Kirby legend II fan (impeller blade)


In order to replace the fan you will buy a 2 or three piece lexan fan kit containing the fan a spacer and shaft.
You must remove the carpet head and then looking from the back of the machine you will find a series of philips screws on the outer edge of the fan housing facing towards the front, several of which may be partly covered by the motor housing. You will remove the forward facing screws to allow the housing to separate and reveal the fan.
If you are lucky there will be a sideways hole through the impeller shaft allowing you to slip a nail through to help twist the saft to unscrew it while holding the fan .
The shaft will turn off revealing a threaded motor shaft with spacers which the broken fan will slide off revealing a second spacer at the back . Be sure to replace these spacers in the same order when re-assembling the unit. Secure the shaft hand tight. Post back to advise if you need further help

Oct 07, 2009 | Kirby G4 Bagged Upright Vacuum

2 Answers

My vacuum died. It won't turn on. It is not the outlet. Is it a blown fuse? How do I replace the fuse? Where does it go? This vacuum is a little over 2 years old. My older Hoover WindTunnel STILL works and...


It's probably the power switch. My switch was dicey for a couple years, finally gave out. Easy to replace.

Remove the two screws just above the WARNING on the rear of the upper handle assembly, then slide the whole assembly to the rear of the vacuum.

Remove the dust bag cover. You will see two holes just above the upper corners of the dust bag. Remove the screws from these recessed screw holes.

Open the furniture cleaner cover and remove the cleaner attachment. Remove the single screw that was hidden behind the attachment. Then remove the attachment housing by pulling it towards the front of the vacuum.

Inside you will see the rear of the power switch. Pull off the power wires (don't worry, easy on/off male/female connectors, no soldering).

The switch is held in by tension bars at the upper and lower rear of the switch. Firmly press down on one of both of the upper/lower tension bars, and push the switch through the housing from the rear of the switch.

Replacement part number is 28161067, about $2.50. Shop will charge about $85 to repair it themselves.

Jul 09, 2009 | Hoover U6476-910 WindTunnel Upright Vacuum...

1 Answer

Bad on/off switch hoover U6476


It's probably the power switch. My switch was dicey for a couple years, finally gave out. Easy to replace.

Remove the two screws just above the WARNING on the rear of the upper handle assembly, then slide the whole assembly to the rear of the vacuum.

Remove the dust bag cover. You will see two holes just above the upper corners of the dust bag. Remove the screws from these recessed screw holes.

Open the furniture cleaner cover and remove the cleaner attachment. Remove the single screw that was hidden behind the attachment. Then remove the attachment housing by pulling it towards the front of the vacuum.

Inside you will see the rear of the power switch. Pull off the power wires (don't worry, easy on/off male/female connectors, no soldering).

The switch is held in by tension bars at the upper and lower rear of the switch. Firmly press down on one of both of the upper/lower tension bars, and push the switch through the housing from the rear of the switch.

Replacement part number is 28161067, about $2.50. Shop will charge about $85 to repair it themselves.

Feb 01, 2009 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

1 Answer

Hoover U5750-900 just shuts off


I have a similar bagless model U5757-900 that is shutting off. I disassembled the unit, and what I found is that the motor front bearing had accumulated enough grime so that the bearing locked up. When this happened, the bearing outer shell spun in the plastic housing, causing it to soften, from friction heat. This allowed the motor shaft to become off center from the normal, centered axis of rotation. Once this happened, the rotor inside the motor began to rub against the stator, the fixed part of the motor inside. This loaded down the motor, causing excessive current draw, which caused the overheat switch to activate, shutting down the machine.

In your case, it might not be as bad as in my case.

Remove the dual-cannister dirt cup.

To find out, disassemble the unit lower section: on bottom, remove 4 screws around the rotating brush housing. Remove the brush cover, then remove the brush, then remove the belt. Remove the wide plastic housing behind the brush. Remove the two screws, from the bottom, that retain the upper hood. Remove the hood.

On the back, remove the two screws and hose retainer going from the base to the upright section. This releases the hose from the lower section.

Now press the tilt release, and lay back the upright section. Remove the four screws, two on each side, from the trunnion caps, where the upright section tilts on the lower section. Remove the trunion caps. Remove the upright section from the lower section.

Remove the headlight cover (2 screws).

From the back, remove the single screw retaining the bezel above the headlight area.

Slide the bezel upwards and remove.

Remove the four screws that retain the motor cover clamshell. One is from front, and other 3 from rear.

Open motor clamshell halves to expose motor.

Note orientation/position of the three wires on the motor, and remove those wires. Lift motor out.

To open the motor, gently tap the edges of the impeller housing (aluminum shell) on the edge of the shell, in the little gaps around the shell.

Using a 1/2" socket, remove the nut in the center of the impeller. This is a LEFT HAND NUT. TURN RIGHT TO LOOSEN IT.

Gently wiggle the impeller while pulling until impeller comes off of motor shaft. Use a glove so the impeller doesn't cut your hand.

Remove the large flat washer on the motor shaft. Remove the small sleeve from the motor shaft.

On the brush end of the motor, using a small screwdriver, pry out on the brush holders. Set them aside.

Remove the two screws holding motor together. Seperate the motor front from motor rear. Withdraw the motor rotating part.

Look into the inside of the stator, inspecting for bright, shiny areas where the rotor may be dragging on the stator. If you see these, then the front bearing, in the plastic motor frount, is fried. I don't think Hoover sells this part alone. Also inspect the plastic front bearing retainer to see if there is any melting that has allowed the bearing to become off center.

In any case, if there is scrubbed out places inside the stator, then the motor requires replacement, about $70 for the motor... You might be able to find an entire new vac for less... or, like me, find one on the side of the street where someone has tossed out a unit.

You may luck out and find that the impeller unit is just filled with some trash so air cannot get to the motor for cooling... or you may have a shot motor.


Jan 03, 2009 | Hoover U5750-900 WindTunnel Bagless...

1 Answer

Johnson CL.A U8820-120 motor jammed up in my Bissell carpet power cleaner


I obtained a bearing from McMaster Carr (mcmaster.com) installed it and the carpet cleaner works
once again. I used a double-sealed bearing (part number 5972K221) rather than a double-shielded
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I probably should have gone for a stainless bearing (part number 6153K71) which costs $11.56
rather than the $4.26 for the one I selected. The repair was fairly straight-forward but confusing at
times. The motor is under lower front cover (rounded with air vents). This is held on by two
Phillips-head screws set deeply in holes in the back. However, the mounting tabs of the lower
front cover are under the upper front cover. It may be possible to bend outwards the lower part
of the upper cover, but I removed the upper cover. In addition to the two screws already mentioned,
the upper cover is held by two screws passing through the protrusions to which the clean-water
tank snaps are attached. You have to remove these snaps to pull the upper cover apart. After
you get the motor/housing out, you can remove the plastic blower housing with four screws, but there
is a metal blower housing underneath it that has to be pried out. Since the plastic one pries against
tends to break, I ended up repeatedly catching the edge of the metal housing with a screw-driver
blade and then rapping the screwdriver with a hammer. After removing the impeller, the motor can
be pulled free of the blower housing. After removing the brushes, it took a while to realize that
the brass-colored brush housings had to be slid almost all the way out to uncover the two screws
that allow the armature to be removed from the field coils. The bearing is press fit in place, so you
need a puller or some equivalent arrangement to remove the bearing. Not having a press, I used
the impeller nut to press the new bearing into place. It had to be tapped lightly with a hammer
at first. One the nut could grab a thread, it was used to press the bearing into place. Since you
run out of thread before the bearing is fully seated, you need to add some spacers and repeat
the process. I used a stack of washers. When removing he brushes, label their orientation so
that they do not add excessive drag when reassembled. So far, the repaired cleaner has run about
an hour without problems.

Nov 06, 2008 | Eureka 421A EZ Kleen Bagless Stick Vacuum

1 Answer

Fan and bearing replacement on a Kirby G6


if you run your vac to long after the fan is broke it will cause excessive vibration and the bearings can go out. in almost all cases i replace the fan only. most of the time if you have a bad bearing the vac will make a grinding noise. you can also tell a bad bearing by grabbing the belt pulley on the end of the fan and pull up and down if it moves alot then your bearing is also bad. you can get the bearings separate witout ordering the armature assy. when talking of replacing any of these parts besides the fan i would advise you to take your vac to your local repairman. working on motor parts of a kirby can get pretty involved. to replace the fan first take the housing off where your belt and brushroll are. you should then see 5 screws on the front of your kirby. remove all 5 screws. then remove the handle. at the very bottom of your handle you will see a piece that allows you to move the handle, on the back side of this you need to push in with your thumb and the handle should pull off. then you should see a plastic piece directly below that snaps into the top housing. remove the 2 screws from this. one where the cord boot is and one above your power drive neutral/drive lever. then under this plastic piece is 2 more screws on your top housing. when these are out your housing should pull off. if not then remove the bottom plastic housing of your outer bag. then go back and look at the front again and you will find since removing the top housing you have exposed 2 more screws in the front fan cover housing that also need to come out. after this pry this housing off and you should be looking directly at the fan. grab fan with pliers in one hand and with the other hand apply pliers to the silver belt pulley and turn this piece clockwise. it should unscrew and then you can pull your bad fan off and attach the new one. i hope this helps and remember its not as hard as i probably made it sound. good luck!!!!

Sep 24, 2008 | Kirby G6 Bagged Upright Vacuum

2 Answers

Need to replace front vacume propeller


You will have to take most of the vacuum apart to replace your fan.
First; remove the handle assembly by pressing the button on the front of it near the base. Remove the bag unit by twisting the rear of the emptor away from the body, and remove the front nozzle assembly by rotating the belt removal part to the "off" position and flipping the latch at the top of the nozzle.

There's a screw on the very back above the self propel select, and one on the top of the plastic where the cord attaches, removal of these will let you remove the rear plastic piece. Then there will be two more screws above the main power switch, and two on the front of the housing under the headlight. Remove the power cord, and then you can lift the rear housing from the main body.
Now you can remove the screws from the front of the fan housing; I believe there are five. Make sure you keep track which screws came from which position, because they are all different sizes.
To remove the front of the fan housing, put a flat-head screwdriver in the gap at the top to the side of the headlight assembly and pry it apart.
To get the motor pulley off you'll want to grip the pulley with a pair of vice grips, and use a wrench to hold on to the motor shaft in the rear of the machine. Look at the shaft that runs to the rear from the armature, and you should be able to locate a flat section which will allow you to grip it with a wrench... I do not recall the exact size, but there is a standard one that fits it perfectly. The pulley can then be removed. Note that it is reverse-threaded. Keep in mind that you will need to replace all the little plastic washers and rubber gaskets and things that are on the shaft with the fan. They are usually included with the Kirby fan kit, but if not make sure you find some before attempting the repair.
Before reassembly, you'll want to apply a thin layer of adhesive around the edge of the fan housing, making sure you don't glue the safety switch on the front into place.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

Good luck.

-R

Aug 13, 2008 | Kirby Generation 3 Bagged Upright Vacuum

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