Question about Dacor Preference PGR30SS Gas Kitchen Range

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Viking ignitors when i turn the knobs i ignite the stove all ignitors turn on and stays on no matter what power i turn the knob at unless i turn the knob off . please help

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  • antonioambar Dec 09, 2008

    the ignitor keeps on clicking unless i turn the knobs o the off position.

  • antonioambar Dec 09, 2008

    i have a viking stovetop with six burners i should have been more specific i'm sorry.

  • antonioambar Dec 09, 2008

    i does no matter witch knob i turn all six ignitor start clicking and stays on unless i turn the knob on the off position.

  • antonioambar Dec 09, 2008

    when i turn the any knob all six igniters start clicking and they stay on unless i turn the knob to off position.

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Hi, please dont rate me yet if this could not fix your problem. Check well the igniter, remove the knob and try to clean it with wd-40. If doest work need to replace the igniter. Thank you.....

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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Clen th knob there is a short circuit caused by humidty just clean th under of th knob and every thing is gonna be alright.

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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The igniter is stuck ...spray switch with areosol lub push in and out with fingersand then try it again

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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Please be more specific for example gas flame stays the same or the ignitor just keeps on clicking

kind regards

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Dec 09, 2008

    Ok.disconnect from the mains for 10 mins or so, if you have a can of WD-40 handy spray the ignition switch with it and depress it a few times to release it as it sounds like its stuck on
    post back with the results please

    regards


  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Dec 09, 2008

    yes the ignitor is stuck on, use WD-40 to release it as i mentioned above

    regards


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I have a GE Hotpoint stove/range model num 317B6641P001 that the oven will not ignite nor will the igniter turn on.


It sounds like the ignitor is bad...you will not or should not smell gas if ignitor is bad...gas valve is not supposed to open until the sensor by the ignitor has reached a certain temp. It's a safety feature. If you replace the ignitor, it should work like normal.

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i couldn't find your model on the sears site,every viking stove i've worked on had two ignitors,if one of the ignitors isn't working correctly could cause heat changes in the oven.if you pull out the racks,then remove the side rack holders,lift up the floor so you can see the ignitors,start the oven,as soon as the ignitors start to glow time them,if they don't ignite the flame within 40 seconds the ignitor is bad.if this is the problem you don't have to calibrate the oven.also if the ignitor or both are bad check the burner tube to see if there's a hole in it.my friend john had trouble with his oven,i went over,had to change out both ignitors and both burner tubes,the ignitors weren't working correctly and burnt a hole through the tube.so check the ignitors first,if you want to calibrate it look at your manual and it should tell you how to do it,or oull off the thermostat knob,look on the back there might be screws there to calibrate it or if there's a hole in the shaft in the shaft that you pulled the knob off of you might need a small screw driver to stick in there,turn it slowly and not to much to the right to increase the temp.hope this helps but start with the ignitors,they are usually the problem.

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I have a Viking vgic365-4G gas range. I recently replaced the spark module, the ignitors for the oven and the griddle, and the spark ignitors for the burners. The problem I am having is only one of the...


Hello,

their is one of two things causing that,

1) the switch that supplies power to the spark module when the burner is turned on is bad...its located on the shaft of the burner valve thier is one switch for each knob so counting the oven and the burners their is 5 (the oven is different from the surface burners) to check those switches what needs to be done is remove the knobs then the face panel so ya can get to the knobs.

No is where is gets a bit complcated if ya dont follow all procedures....the knob must turned on to check so gas will be flowing and ya must light the gas using a match or raw gas will eneter the kitchen...or if possible temporarly turn off gas supply to the unit.also POWER MUST BE DISCONNECTED and then with power off and the burner lit manually once turned on ya would need to check each switch to have continuity,if any of the switches does not have continuity when measured with a ohm meter that switch will be bad


2) the igniter is cracked so power is coming from spark module yet since its cracked power is jumping out before it gets the where it lights the burners.



GENE

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1 Answer

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I am assuming your referring to the stove top burner ignitor. Well - I can only say on my Viking 48 inch - it was located at top RHS of the stove on the 'back wall'. I was advised by an 'come to my home tech' that it would be located at the back of my stove (ie he would have to pull out the built in unit and cost me 500$). In fact I replaced the unit in 30 minutes ... I removed the two RHS burners (one screw each), disconnected ignitor wires, removed the bracket holding the burners (one screw), followed ignitor wires to silver box covering the ignitor unit (2 screws), opened it & replaced ignitor. Forgot to say - 1st thing I did was turn off power & gas to the range.

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Viking gas stove top ignitors sparking incorrectly


all ignitors spark at the same time no matter which burner is turned on. If you are having trouble with one burner not lighting try cleaning around the ignitor with a small screw driver so the spark has a good path to ground.

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I hope that you have unplugged the range from the wall... Until this is resolved, you need to remove power from the stove. Use a lighter (long nose type is best) until this is corrected.

To identify the exact cause, you will need to expose (one at a time is ok) each of the contacts assoicated with the burner control knobs.

Each burner control knob has a setting (ignite) that closes a set of relay contacts and allows the igniter transformer to fire all of the spark-gap igniters. Since they all "spark" from any knob, you must isolate the knob that has the short circuit in it.

So do the following: (WITH THE POWER PLUG REMOVED FROM THE WALL....)

1. Expose the back side of a knob.
2. locate the press on wire on that knob.
3. Remove that wire from the know and place it on a piece of paper toweling (to isolate it from any metal).
4. Plug the stove into the wall and listen for sparking.
5. If NO sparking is heard, you have located the bad knob. If spark IS heard, unplug the stove and restore the wire. Move onto the next knob.
6. Repeat steps 1 - 5 until the spark does no appear.
7. Repair or replace that faulty knob assembly.

Let us know of your success.
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sounds like you could have an igniter problem,also i noticed my stove does that after i clean it,i was getting the igniters wet,had to just turn the burner on and light it with a lighter and leave it on till the igniter dried out.

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Make sure that the small burner holes near the ignitor are not clogged. if no flame is visibly touching the ignitor, then the ignitor will not sense that it is lit. The fact that it seems to take longer to light than normal leads me to this as well.

If there is good flame contact with the ignitor, then sometimes it will not sense the flame if you had a boilover and water got down between the wire and the ceramic body. This can happen with oil as well. Removing the ignitor (carefully! if you crack it, it will "leak" its spark and not work properly), cleaning it and letting it thoroughly dry will help. Most of the time I just leave the burner on and the clicking will stop after about a minute when the whole assembly heats up and drys out.

If all that checks out, then the ignition module is bad. Mine went out after 6 years use. They are available online (I bought mine from a Viking parts store...surprisingly). Replacement is fairly easy. Turn off the power to the stove. Remove the screws that hold the burner knob/oven knob faceplate to the range (Two are only accessed by opening the oven door, the rest are tucked up at the top of the faceplate and under the top-front lip of the range) The ignition module has many wires attached and they are easy to remove. MAKE SURE YOU ATTATCH THE WIRES TO THE NEW MODULE IN EXACTLY THE SAME SPOTS ON THE NEW IGNITOR. That includes the same ignitor wires that are all colored the same.

I absolutely love my Bluestar. I wish my convection fan was quieter, but the power of the range is simply awesome.

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