Have power to board, but light, no motor operation
With switch in forward mode,bagger safety switch is closed, paper inserted between sensors, no lights.
Capacitor? board component? Hopefully easy fix, but don't know. Please help, if you can. Thanks.......Ted
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There are 2 methods. One is a mechanical arm that is lifted by the paper.
More often there is an LED light at one end of the ffeed to the cutters, and a sensor at the other end. It may be that the sensors are dirty - use a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol to clean the sensor light(s) and heads
Give a quick spray to cutters with WD40 Replace - turn on - and run in
check the capacitor(s) and replace the power components. Easy fix if handy with soldering electronics as you may need to replace capacitor(s), hopefully not mother board. Tv repairman should charge about $75-100.00 dollars for fix ...
Its tripping a high limit most likely. Be careful there is 2100 to 4000 volt high side with a capacitor if its not an inverter. The standard components consist of noise board, fuse, touch panel and power controller, high limits, door switches, whipper motor, fan, transformer, capacitor, transformer, magnetron, diode, plate rotator.
Discharge cap (for safety and further testing)..
Test fuse; if fuse tests blown test door switches first.
Check amp draw with slow blow fuse; open door to stop unit and again discharge capacitor.
Test resistance to ground on whipper, fan, magnetron, light.
Test resistance lead to lead (measurable on motors/coils/magnetron).
Test capacitor in ferrads, compare to spec on print.
Check diode forward and reverse.
Test output voltage from power control board to transformer.
Test transformer coils.
Best of luck and play safe; dont test voltage output from the transformer, voltage at capacitor or magnetron.
I've just fixed this problem with a Miele 7132S. It was a capacitor on the electronic circuit board. A very simple job to replace and cost about £2. I got the solution from another poster wonkothesane on diynot. Note that the electronics is connected directly to the mains supply so remove the plug from the wall before you start! The module is simple to remove: open the freezer door and under the module are three slots with catches - just push each in turn with a small screwdriver and pull the module gently forwards.
The power supply uses a 0.47uF 275V Class X2 capacitor which had gone low value so there was insufficient voltage to operate the relay. The compressor is connected to the normally closed relay contact so the freezer runs all the time. For safety reasons it is critical that you only replace this capacitor with exactly the same specification component as you remove!
While I had the thing apart I also replaced two electrolytic capacitors in the power supply, a 100uF 50V and a 470uF 10V.
This problem is typically found in the control board circuit. Probably the 1000MFD 16V Capacitor on the DC side of the PCB may be at fault. The Fix is to replace the capacitor which can be purchased at any Radio Shack for about $2.00. Procedure is to de-solder the the bad component and solder the replacement. This is a polarized component so pay attention the polarity when installing. Test the fix; Properly reinstall the PCB wiring, and Enjoy your Chilled Wine. Recardo.
The capacitor and diode will not cause the problem you describe. You will not be able to measure the diode with an ohmmeter, the forward breakdown is about 5-6Vdc. The normal failure mode for the capacitor is a short which will blow the fuse. If any high voltage components go bad, the microwave will operate normally just not heat. You should focus on the door interlock switches and safety thermostats, especially the cavity thermostat located somewhere on the top of the cavity.
To make a high voltage diode tester, wire up a 9V battery, LED and a 220 ohm resistor. Hooked up one way the LED will light reverse the connection the LED will not light.
If you need further assistance, let me know Regards, reg501
The first thing you want to check is the mechanical paper feed sensor. It is located in the center of the paper throat. A switch that gets pushed back when paper is inserted. Sometimes paper gets stuck behind it and you can jiggle the switch to work it loose. If that does not work try moving the basket around a little, this unit has a magnetic safety interlock switch located under center of basket. If niether of these help you please contact us at Fellowes Customer Service 800-945-4545.
Though I only work with Fellowes shredders this sounds like a paper feed sensor issue. If your unit has a mechanical paper feed sensor you can try to jiggle it in and out to see if any paper may have become jammed behind switch. If the unit has an electronic sensor it may simply need to be cleaned with a Qtip dipped in rubbing alchohol. If neither of these help your paper feed sensor or your pc board has gone bad and you will have to contact your manufacturer for further parts availability.