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Heating element doesn't heat

The heating element will not get hot. I've checked both elements and there is resistance and there is a voltage between the posts on the element and ground. I've also disassembled the sensor wires and looked over the circuit board for any burns. As this is an $800 dryer, I really could use an idea what to look for.

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Re: heating element doesn't heat - Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Dryers

Well done !

Posted on Aug 04, 2007

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Re: heating element doesn't heat - Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer Dryers


Posted on Oct 08, 2008

Re: heating element doesn't heat

I had the same problem. Solved it in the same way. Thanks!

Posted on Nov 21, 2007

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How do i know if the heating element is broken?

Make sure power is off. With an ohm meter check resistance through the heating element. If the reading shows O.L. on the display the element is bad. If it shows resistance then you might have a power issue. Check voltage at the harness when power is on.. If you are not familiar with working with live electrical circuits do not attempt. Call a certified technician.

Mar 01, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore 300 dryer runs but does not heat

With the dryer off, use a volt/ohm meter and see if the heating element has resistance. If there is infinite resistance the element is bad. If the element tests OK, check the thermisters. They are usually button shaped parts that shut off the heat if it gets too hot. These and fuses need to be replaced if they have infinite resistance. Generally, these blow when you have lint build-up and the air can't flow.

Sep 02, 2014 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs but doesn't heat I have a Roper RES7646KQ2, l have replaced the following parts: 1-Thermostat 2-Thermal cut off kit which replaces (hi limit and Thermostat 3-Heating Element Still...

If I remember correctly, this model has a switch on the motor which activates both legs
of the 220 to allow the heating element to come on. There is a wiring diagram under the
lid of the dryer and should show this. Hope this helps.

Jun 21, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

My electric dryer will not heat up

Probably a bad heating element. You can easily test to see if it is getting voltage with a volt meter. If it is, then the element is bad. Once the heating element is disconnected, you can use the same meter and check it for resistance.

Jan 02, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Model 110.96585200 No heat!

You probably have a bad thermal cut-off . This is the small thermostat , located at the top of the element housing . This " thermostat " should read infinate resistance ( no resistance ) . You can put the 2 wires togather , and see if heat comes on . pt # 3399848 . Both thermostats , should read 0 resistance . They are normally closed . The thermal cut-off , will not reset itself , if open . This is a safety t-stat , for when dryer gets too hot , and will have to be replaced .

Nov 11, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer not heating during cycle, what do I do?

You'll need to check the thermostats and heating element. The dryer has like two or three thermostats: two that operate the heating element, and one that burns out like a fuse if it gets too hot. Pick up a electric multimeter. I got mine at wal-mart for $5. Put it on the resistance (greek letter omega or upside down horseshoe symbol). 1X or 10X or anything doesn't matter. When you touch the probes together the needle should jump, indicating that there's very low resistance there because the probes don't resist electricity flowing them. You can use this to test the components. Unplug the dryer for God's sake, and then try to take off the back panel. If you don't see a way you can probably "pop" the top of the dryer by prying it up with a putty knife in the seam between the sides and top of the dryer. Now remove the back, and find the heating element assembly, probably on the lower right. There will be two or three wires connected to the element assembly. Two 220v wires(probably red) will supply power to the element and one control wire(probably yellow) send feedback to the controller. Check the resistance of the heating element and each of the thermostats by putting the probes on the wires on each "side" of it and check the resistance. If something has a very high resistance on the high voltage wires, it's probably defunct and needs to be replaced. The yellow or control wire might have a resistor on it that your meter would read as bad, but you're only concerned with the high voltage supply wires. Note that the wiring diagram will probably be hidden somewhere inside the dryer when you open it up. If all the parts in the element assembly check out ok follow the wire connected from the element to the motor and check the resistance of the resistors and stuff on the diagram. Note that is a resistor have a value like 10k(10,000 ohms) you may have your meter set too low for the needle to actually read it. That's what the 1X, 10X multiplier settings are for if your meter has them. Other problems could be a loose wire, dirty moisture sensor inside the drum, defective controller, or defective switches.

Oct 23, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Electric model# 110/63022100 KENMORE ELITE dryer turns on yet no heat so clothes don't dry if it's a heating coil where do i locate it or how do i get to it to get it out?

The following link explains how to troubleshoot a dryer no heat problem:

The first thing you should check is your wall receptacle voltage to ensure you are getting between 220-240 VAC across the HOT leads (LEFT and RIGHT slots). If your input voltage is wrong, the heating circuits will not operate, but the drum still may turn. That's because the drive motor only requires 110-120 VAC, while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If the voltage at the wall receptacle is good, check the again at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord is installed. Check across the RED and BLACK terminals for the same 220-240 VAC. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block and wall receptacle, check your circuit breakers. Some installations have two breakers controlling the dryer. If one trips, the dryer may run, but won't heat. If the voltage is good at the terminal block, your problem is internal to the dryer. This may save you the need to open the dryer if you have an external problem.

On your dryer, the heating element is located inside the dryer under the drum on the right hand side.

In most cases the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) fails before the Heating Element. If the TCO is defective, it is strongly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat at the same time. These two components are commonly sold as a set and are located on the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located on the end opposite the heating element terminals, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element leads. Failure to replace both components may result in premature failure of any components you replace.

Make sure you take all resistance readings with the components unplugged to isolate them and prevent parallel resistance paths. If you do determine your heating element to be defective and need to remove it, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jul 08, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer runs too hot.

Remove power from the unit. You want to use a multi-meter set on an ohms scale. Remove the wires from each terminal at the heating element. Check resistance to ground at the heater by putting one meter lead to the case of the heater, and the other meter lead to each terminal at the heater. It sounds as though your element has gone bad and is shorted to the case. The resistance should be infinite. If you read any resistance from the element to the case, replace the heating element. The no heat setting should be exactly heat.

May 22, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not putting out warm to hot air. What is the issue?

Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!

For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
. Use your ohm meter to test the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

May 07, 2009 | Dryers

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