My RV30S was installed by a qualified service technician in
approximately the year 2000. It finally developed a mind of its own.
It would raise up and run for a bit and then stop....sometimes it
wouldn't raise up or go down....it would switch from fast to slow to
stop.....it became frustratingly unusable....
...today i finally took it upon myself to take it apart and I determined that the controller board had fried.
Before I go on -> Disclaimer: These units are hard-wired to live
A.C. power. These units must be serviced by technically qualified
service personnel. I do NOT recommend anyone to attempt this service.
I've worked in the past as an electrical engineer by trade. But to save
you time and money you can shop and buy the parts you need yourself and
then hire an appliance service technician to safely install them for
you. This way they can't rip you off by over charging for the parts and
you can certainly count the hours for the install.
The controller board is shown here. In my case, this diode fried.
I found a replacement controller on E-Bay for only $82 bucks and change. At the time of this writing they had 14 in stock.
It sounds like you may be having the same problem. But please be sure
to hire a qualified appliance service technician to do the work. If he
quotes a price for the controller board anything over 82 bucks, you
will indeed will be in a better position to negotiate a better deal.
Hope this helps anyone that is having or will have the same problem with an older RV30....
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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yes you are right..there are switches that should be detected that the unit is in its proper level ans hould stop and turn the fan on.
you may inspect the railing or where the moving part is moving to find limit switches or sliding switches or sensors..it could have been defective with oil or grease and not making contact to transfer the signal to the controller.
two Phillips screws under side of raised vent removes top complete then switch has plastic piece that slides out with control be careful wires are short and very small easy to break
you will most likely have to change keyboard and buttons
First thing is to manually drive it and verify there is no stiction in the mechanism. Most driven systems not ONLY look at limit switches, but time out to turn off the motor should a limit switch fail to work. Being this is is a moist environment and OHMMETER check of the switches MAY be inadequate. The reason is that if the switches go to electronic controls, electrical leakage currents can be tiny and be read by the electronics as incorrect status. You should find that when the switches are open the resistance should be greater than 1 Megohm and less than 100 ohms when closed if they drive electronics. Electronic controls take tiny currents so small leakage currents can give false readings... similarly they typically don't require perfect continuity. If switches are showing readings that are not good, try putting some CRC226 available at Home Depot elect dept in the switches. It is a moisture displacer for electrical purpose. Use ONLY that product as there are other CRC ones that are not suitable.
I have the same problem with a DACOR ECS 130 and also set the breaker panel switch to OFF to prevent the light from turning on-off or staying on. It might help to unplug the touchpad connector behind the control panel or it may be a problem relay on a circuit board. I've had the problem for several years but will start work on it tomorrow because we do not bake often at my house.
P.S. I'm not an appliance tech but have had problems with the DACOR DM024 microwave( made by SHARP) and the DACOR raised vent. I think DACOR products are junk. The raised vent problem required replacing the entire circuit board!
Unfortunately i had found myself in this same situation. i have no idea
how the grill came out when it was closed, but it was stuck in the fan
enclosure underneath the counter. Unlike the poster above i did not
have access to the side screws to take the unit apart. instead i was
able to remove the front panel, and then unscrew the motor arm from the
protective case, and unscrew the case from the unit. This created
enough wiggle room that i could raise the right side of the vent cover
up and extract the left side out the bottom opening. then it was just a
matter of reconnecting the arm to the cover and the cover to the unit.
Hi, we have a Dacor RV 30 (I think) and twice I have had the unit go up and down endlessly until I turn the breaker off. The problem was water getting inside the switch. The first time, I got a real Dacor replacement ($80?) the next time, I got the part number off the switch, googled it and got two of them for about $4 each plus shipping.
Ours started doing the same thing. I got it to start working again by gently holding down the up/down button until it started to move. After doing this a few times it started working normally again. Also the keypad can be locked and unlocked by pressing the low and high buttons together for 1 second.