My RV30S was installed by a qualified service technician in
approximately the year 2000. It finally developed a mind of its own.
It would raise up and run for a bit and then stop....sometimes it
wouldn't raise up or go down....it would switch from fast to slow to
stop.....it became frustratingly unusable....
...today i finally took it upon myself to take it apart and I determined that the controller board had fried.
Before I go on -> Disclaimer: These units are hard-wired to live
A.C. power. These units must be serviced by technically qualified
service personnel. I do NOT recommend anyone to attempt this service.
I've worked in the past as an electrical engineer by trade. But to save
you time and money you can shop and buy the parts you need yourself and
then hire an appliance service technician to safely install them for
you. This way they can't rip you off by over charging for the parts and
you can certainly count the hours for the install.
The controller board is shown here. In my case, this diode fried.
I found a replacement controller on E-Bay for only $82 bucks and change. At the time of this writing they had 14 in stock.
It sounds like you may be having the same problem. But please be sure
to hire a qualified appliance service technician to do the work. If he
quotes a price for the controller board anything over 82 bucks, you
will indeed will be in a better position to negotiate a better deal.
Hope this helps anyone that is having or will have the same problem with an older RV30....
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
First thing is to manually drive it and verify there is no stiction in the mechanism. Most driven systems not ONLY look at limit switches, but time out to turn off the motor should a limit switch fail to work. Being this is is a moist environment and OHMMETER check of the switches MAY be inadequate. The reason is that if the switches go to electronic controls, electrical leakage currents can be tiny and be read by the electronics as incorrect status. You should find that when the switches are open the resistance should be greater than 1 Megohm and less than 100 ohms when closed if they drive electronics. Electronic controls take tiny currents so small leakage currents can give false readings... similarly they typically don't require perfect continuity. If switches are showing readings that are not good, try putting some CRC226 available at Home Depot elect dept in the switches. It is a moisture displacer for electrical purpose. Use ONLY that product as there are other CRC ones that are not suitable.
Folks, I have experienced the same problem several times - in all of my cases the problem was solved by simply opening the back panel and taking out the motor assembly and re-aligning it. Check out this URL for a blow up of what's inside and parts list - http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5130126
The problem is that the arm tends to slip out and therefore won't raise or lower the hood anymore. Be careful when aligning it can be a little tricky - carefully observe the how the motor works outside of the housing via the switch and you will get the idea.
Unfortunately i had found myself in this same situation. i have no idea
how the grill came out when it was closed, but it was stuck in the fan
enclosure underneath the counter. Unlike the poster above i did not
have access to the side screws to take the unit apart. instead i was
able to remove the front panel, and then unscrew the motor arm from the
protective case, and unscrew the case from the unit. This created
enough wiggle room that i could raise the right side of the vent cover
up and extract the left side out the bottom opening. then it was just a
matter of reconnecting the arm to the cover and the cover to the unit.
Hi, we have a Dacor RV 30 (I think) and twice I have had the unit go up and down endlessly until I turn the breaker off. The problem was water getting inside the switch. The first time, I got a real Dacor replacement ($80?) the next time, I got the part number off the switch, googled it and got two of them for about $4 each plus shipping.