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If there is a red light displayed, for this particular amp, then that means the overload circuit has been activated. This is caused by excessive output current. What may have happened is that the passive crossover components have been damaged. If you know how to use a soldering iron, you may be able to visually see the damaged components on the crossover circuit board and repair them. Another possibility is either a speaker cable is exposed and touching the vehicle chassis, or a voice coil has been damaged. The most likely problem is a damaged voice coil, as that would still play music but would require more power to reach the same audio output. Smell the area around each speaker magnet for a burned scent, which would indicate a damaged voice coil. If there is no scent, visually inspect each speaker for damage. If there is nothing visible and you do not smell any burned scent, and you are sure the speaker leads are not exposed and touching the vehicle chassis, then there is probably nothing wrong.
Sounds like a broken solder joint. If the jack has been hit or bumped too hard it can break the connection where the jack is soldered to the main circuit board.
If you can see the underside (solder side) of board with the bottem plate off, it may be a easy fix with a solder iron. Iff the board is mounted with the solder side down you may have to remove the board to fix it.
You can open it up and smell for any burned components. Once you identify the burned resistor, transistor, capacitor try to replace it with the same value in RADIO SHACK. Also check for burned out tracers on the circuit board. Thats when the copper etching on the board has literally melted away. You reconnect it by soldering small wires and bridge the connections back together. Need solder and soldering Pen. The soldering gun is too strong and may do more damage to the circuit board if used to long.
first take all the screws out of the back of the amp when that is done there will be about 6-7 screws holding the board in place. Then you have to remove all the screws for the mosfets on the outside edges of the amp but make sure not to smear any of the heat transfer tape or heat transfer gel that is under the mosfets and then you should be able to take the board right out
There must be some bad solder connections in the amp. You will need a soldering iron and some solder. Plus the skill to use them so you do not cause much more damage to the amp. It is very easy to bridge a solder joint to a close by solder joint and cause a short in the circuit and can be very danergous, even cause the amp to catch fire. If you bridge any solder joints and then power the amp on, you may very well destroy the amp beyond being able to repair it by anybody. So if you are not sure of how good you may be able to solder the board, please just take it to a service center and have them check it out for you. If it is just some broken solder connections they should be able to repair it fairly cheap. Most shops charge about $65 for this type of repair, but not all repair shjops are priced the same, so you would need to check it out first.
It is very common, for car audio especially, to get cracked or broken solder joints due to the nature of them. They get bounced around a bit even when installed properly. Every time you hit a bump in the road the amp gets a little jolt.
If your amp had anything else besides the bad connections, it would not play OK after shaking it.
Electronics get things called dry joints, this is where the soldered components become insulated from their surrounding components intermittently. This usually manifests itself some years in use.
The symptoms are just like you describe the system cuts in and out.
I have repaired heaps of these over the years and it takes patience with a magnifying glass and a hot soldering iron to repair..
Id start with the socket connections on the main circuit board where you push cables in and them pulll them out again...as thats where mechanical pressure is
placed onto the conection between the socket and the circuit board.
If the amp is in protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, read through the following page. I'll assume that you've checked the amplifier's on-board fuses.
You may have solved your own problem. If you can tap the unit and have it work that is a sign of a loose connection. I would suggest if you have electronics background you check the circuit for a cold solder joint. Then use a soldering iron to go over the joint. Better still hear up the joint and use a desoldering device remove the old solder and then a soldering iron to apply new solder.
This should do the trick it a cold solder joint is indeed your problem.
Your problem sounds very similar to mine. I have a Marshal that does the same thing. It gets power but either no sound comes out or it's fragmented and buzzing. I took the circuit board out and found that a fuse had pulled/been knocked loose and was hanging free. If you take your amp apart, make sure you unplug it first. You're going to be be looking for something that look likes a small lego that suspended above the circuit board by wires coming out of both ends. If ones of these wires has pulled free then that's your problem. You can temporarily fix it by pressing the wire back into the circuit board and placing electrical tape over the top of the fuse to hold it all in place. If you do this, however, you can't play loud or it will rattle loose again and you don't really get more than about 10 minutes of play time. I'm about to solder mine whenever the guns arrives, so I'll let you know if this is a DIY project or not.