Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

9 Answers

A marble or a bearing is rolling behind the drum

The marble/bearing rolls each spin of the tub creating a lot of noise and vibration. $80.00 for an authorized repair person and a lot of talking to whirlpool and it is still not fixed. The repair person said he would not take out the tub, the marble/bearing will fall into a drain below the tub, it hasn't. Lowes sales person for washers stated whirlpool has known about the problem of things falling in the space between the tub and box so the new machines have a tighter fit to stop things before they fall into the space between the tub and the box. Whirlpool never told me about the problem, and will not let my hand husband talk to their tech support to fix it ourselves. Lowes salesperson also said the marble will destroy the tub and surrounding contact areas.

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  • 2 more comments 
  • pm_damjpld Dec 09, 2008

    The washer is 2 & 1/2 years old and off warranty. I am concerned that it is not a marble but a part of the washer which has fallen behind the tub like a ball bearing and I know having it in contact with the tub and box will possibly wear the tub and with the vibrations throw the balance out, a real domino effect. How about the best way to check if it is a ball bearing and if it is not than that will eliminate that question. Second what is the best way for the object to be removed. I thought of using a vacumm, magnet and water to no avail. I can hear it roll back and forth when I turn the tub manually. Please give a better solution than what you gave me, even my 7 year old knew we could bring it back to the manufacture and fix it under warranty, but alas it is not under warranty. Understand please the object is behind the tub not underneath it. Thank you,
    Debra.

  • pm_damjpld Dec 09, 2008

    I already paid a repair person to check the pump/and the dump site for foreign objects the object in question was not visible which leaves behind the tub, could anything foreign have gotten down behind the tub, if so how. Or is it part of the machine, like a ball bearing, it is definitly round. I tried with a flashlight to see throug the holes inside the tub and I couldn't see anything like a marble/bearing. This object will spin around smoothly until the final spin when it lodges someplace and boy things start vibrating at that point and the machine walks.
    Thanks,
    Debra.

  • pm_damjpld Dec 09, 2008

    ghw9150pw1 no heating element
    I am looking at Sears parts diagram, # 10 is where it looks like where the object is living. Does # 8 gasket, tub listed as 8181673 connect to #10 tub, rear listed as 285984, I can't imagine how something got past a gasket or did something fall off the tub, rear, How is the tub held to spin? Can I take the back panel off and access the rear tub without rebuilding the whole machine to find the object? Where can I get a better diagram then sears parts, I see the tub, rear but is that a bushing in the center? Please give detail instructions that I can follow, Lastly what is it? Is it a part of the machine that fell to an in accessable area. If it came from the laundry than it can come out via the drain. The service repair person couldn't find anything when he took the panel off and looked in the dump spot.
    Thanks,
    Debra.

  • pm_damjpld Dec 11, 2008

    I went through my entire wash (7 loads) added extra rinse cycle just to get the bearing/marble plenty of opportunity to drop to the lower tub and left the final load for my husband to put in the dryer.
    When I returned he said he thought it had come out.
    He said as he loaded the dryer a couple of pants separated and the object fell inside the dryer. It was a metal bearing, size of a marble. It didn't come out as larryyb described and how it got into the clothes section of the washer is a mystery (maybe Larryyb could comment on that one). The fact is there is no noise as my last load of laundry is washing. Nor when I spun the tub manually last night. And I had a repair appt. today and I did cancel it yesterday. It was through Sears, called A & E repair. They did quote my husband a fee up to $200.00 for a fix. So Thank you Larryyb for stearing me in the right direction and making Christmas a little easier to enjoy for my family.
    Thank you and have a Wonderful Day!
    Debra.

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9 Answers

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  • 1 Answer

WOW

Like they say where there is a will there is a way.

This was too simple, I had determined that in fact it was a marble from my childs clothes.
So i thought if it can get in there, it can come out the same way.

Take a ziplock sandwich bag, turn it inside out, fish the opened side down the crack between the drum and the flange around it. This is the only place a marble can get in or out.

This took a little patience but you will feel the marble hit the baggie, keep giggleing it and front and back rotation until you feel you have captured the marble, think of it as a game.

When you have it gentley pull it out and assist with a pry bar as I realized after, and open the area just enough for it to pass.

Vola a scored marble.

took me approx ten minutes and didn't have to curse once.

I hope this little Mc Giver trick works for you all and you feel as good as I did and saved alot of money.

Ps. didn't even see any mention from these repair guys of any such expertise.

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 19,396 Answers

You need to remove the back panel and take apart belt routing, motor and tub, it is better calling a local technician for this kind of job.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 08, 2008

    give me the model number if you want the schematics, I can answer in one hour or so.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 08, 2008

    I recommend calling a technician, however I report the exact procedure from Checking the Drain Pump in A Whirlpool Duet

    You need to check the drain pump and the foreign object trap, that is where you find foreign objects

    "Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.


    1. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.

    2. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).

    3. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE
      doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual
      water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a
      gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.

    4. Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If
      you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the
      access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.

    5. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there’s nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.

    6. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten."
    Thanks to the great jsrock516

  • Ginko
    Ginko Dec 09, 2008

    I publish my previous comment again, this is the procedure to open the object trap and get rid of the foreign opbjects:

    I recommend calling a technician, however I report the exact procedure from Checking the Drain Pump in A Whirlpool Duet

    You need to check the drain pump and the foreign object trap, that is where you find foreign objects

    "Unplug the washer while servicing inside the unit.


    1. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the three 7mm screws under the bottom edge of the panel. HINT: Use a couple of blocks of wood to prop up the front feet of the washer to gain better access to the screws. Once the screws are removed the panel should drop down, and then pull off. If the panel becomes stuck, a slight tap on either side will dislodge it.

    2. Locate the drain pump. It will be located directly under the wash tub (it is the only pump this washer has).

    3. There is an access removal cover on the pump that can be removed to clean out the trap. BEFORE
      doing this, it is strongly recommended that you remove all residual
      water from the wash tub & drain line or you will have about a
      gallon or so inside your washer and on the floor to clean up.

    4. Here’s a helpful way of quickly removing the residual water. If you own a wet/dry shop vac, remove the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum with the shop vac. This will empty the wash tub, pump and drain lines. If
      you don’t own a shop vac, grab a bunch of old towels and open the
      access on the pump slowly so that it comes out at a trickle. Allow the towels to soak up the majority of the water. Close the access and stop the water if you need to get additional towels.

    5. Open the pump access and remove once you have all the water drained. Check the drain pump for foreign objects and debris. Check the pump impeller and make sure there’s nothing caught in it. Items as small as toothpicks or cotton swabs have been known to stop this pump from working.

    6. Clean out the pump thoroughly and reinstall the access cover. Make sure the cover is snug, but do not over tighten."
    Thanks to the great jsrock516


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  • Contributor
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Hi

two sets of bearings, front and back, it sounds like the front bearings and you can only get to these by splitting the outer drum one removed from the unit.
Bearings don't destroy nothing apart from themselves, sometimes you have to reset balance sensor and thats about it.
All whirlpool will do is try to make more and more money from you when a better idea would be to get a standard engineer to sort the problem because you will need a special wrench to unscrew the bolt the holds the drive wheel to the drum.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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You can take the back off the machine and take apart the outer tub. it is in two pieces and then if there is something in the middle it can be remove. Just take the rear half of the outer tub apart.

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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  • Master
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I see a lot of tech's answered this, and some didn't even know you have a front load washer! So sorry you have endured all that. (a lot of people just throw out anything hoping to get the couple bucks without even putting any effort into the problem)

You do not state the exact model number (only that it is posted under a Duet GHW9150P, which we have to assume is the model you actually have, unless you provide information to the contrary)

Some models (Not the GHW9150P however) have a heating element in the tub at the front bottom, which can be removed, allowing access to the inner tub for retrieval of objects. You may be able to accomplish the same thing by removing the drain outlet hose at the outer tub. "Fish" in there with fingers, or a wire or other object to try to locate and remove the foreign object. The alternative is to do a total tear down, splitting the two halves of the outer drum, which is a lot of work.

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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  • 1,239 Answers

HI  WELCOME TO FIXYA
I THINK disassemble a washerS  tub will stop yhe problem

Step 1: To remove the control panel, remove retaining screws spaced around the panel. They are usually located under a piece of molding or trim that can be pried off. On some machines, you'll have to remove the back of the control panel, also held by retaining screws, to get at the working parts of the controls. Knobs on the control panel are usually friction-fit and will pull off. Some knobs are held by small setscrews at the base of the knob. Loosen the setscrews with a screwdriver or Allen wrench and pull the knobs straight off the shafts.

Step 2: To remove the service panel, remove its retaining screws, then spread an old blanket on the floor to protect the washer's finish. Make sure the machine and hoses are drained of water. Tip the washer over on its front or side to gain access through the bottom of the machine. The bottom of the machine generally doesn't have a service panel because it is usually open.

Step 3: To remove the top of the cabinet, insert a stiff-bladed putty knife into the joint between the top and side panels and give the knife a rap with your fist. This should release the spring clips so that the top can be removed.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Dec 08, 2008

    i tiope thes diagrams may help youa

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I have never come across washing machine bearings that just "drop out" at the back, in my experience the whole inner and outer drum have to be removed to get to the bearings, this is because there are two sets of bearings, front and back, it sounds like the front bearings and you can only get to these by splitting the outer drum one removed from the unit.
Bearings don't destroy nothing apart from themselves, sometimes you have to reset balance sensor and thats about it.
All whirlpool will do is try to make more and more money from you when a better idea would be to get a standard engineer to sort the problem because you will need a special wrench to unscrew the bolt the holds the drive wheel to the drum.

kind regards and thanks for using fixya!

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Dec 08, 2008

    Abhishek33!!!!!!
    Read the post properly !!!!! the machine is a front loader not a top loader, what use was that post?


  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Dec 09, 2008

    If you think that a foreign object like a ball bearing or even money, the only way you might be able to get it out is to remove the door seal, tip the unit forward so the object slides to the front and try get your hand down to pick it out, or you could use a magnet attached to a piece of string

    hope this helps

    regards


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If your unit was under warranty, it is better to call and bring / send the unit to the supplier.

or better to call a repairman near your location

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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  • 291 Answers

The lowes salesperson is wrong ,,, it wont destroy anything it will just be bad noise till it falls into the lower tub and then into the pump filter where you can unscrew the cap on the pump and take it out ,,, to get it out b4 then you have to pull the top, outer panel then get to the tub and on that style you have to take the complete tub out and take it apart to remove it and then replace the spit seal and reinstall ,,, it would cost anywhere from 300-400.00 to remove the marble so best best is to let it go thru its course till it drops out / i have done the repairs on those machines so i know what it would take to do it ,,,,, sorry but thats the best and cheapest / larryyb

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

  • Larry Youngblood
    Larry Youngblood Dec 11, 2008

    i was close but still off ,,,, it was hung inside one of the baffles that in inside tub and with extra washin it came out and into the clothes and when you put them in the dryer it came out ,,,, thanks and feel free to contact me anytime / larry

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1 Answer

My drum is loose and won't spin even by hand


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.







Sep 21, 2014 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Loud grinding noise when drum turns


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.


If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.





Apr 20, 2014 | Asko Washing Machines

1 Answer

GE adora front load makes loud rattling sound in spin cycle. nothing in drum. sounds like a ball bearing


its the inner baskets bearings behind this basket as water gets past the rear seal into these bearings and ruins them,you need to dismantle the entire unit to remove the inner basket from the outer tub to replace these bearings

Oct 27, 2012 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Noisy on spin cycle


It's very difficult to advise on a noisy washing machine because you can't describe noises accurately enough. People often describe the same noises quite differently.

Generally though, if a washing machine is rumbling, and noisy on spin, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings have probably gone.

Another drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure is a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes) There are usually two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with grease and rust.

Other causes of a noisy washing machine are coins and other obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause noise when the washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would produce a lot of noise on spin as they coins get tossed around inside. Usually, spinning the drum by hand will not reproduce the noise in the case of coins as the coins drop to the bottom of the tub when the washing machine isn't spinning.

A light scraping noise when the drum is turned by hand is usually a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum.

A high pitched squealing or harsh noise can be motor bearing wear. This can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor alone.

A knocking noise can be a loose tub weight. This would be worse with heavy loads and would not be present on spin with no washing in. This is because the knocking noise is caused when the tub (or outer drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub doesn't move. Another symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete dust under the washing machine.

It's very tempting to ignore noises while the washing machine is still otherwise working. Some noises can be ignored as they will not develop into serious faults. Other noises, if left, will cause extensive damage and can end up costing considerably more than if tackled early or these days writing the washing machine off. Of course the problem is that you can't tell which of the categories a noise falls into - so ignore them at your own risk.

Jul 28, 2012 | Roper Washing Machines

1 Answer

Noisy drum bearing also play on drum


It's very difficult to advise on a noisy washing machine because you can't describe noises accurately enough. People often describe the same noises quite differently.

Generally though, if a washing machine is rumbling, and noisy on spin, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings have probably gone.

Another drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure is a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes) There are usually two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with grease and rust.

Other causes of a noisy washing machine are coins and other obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause noise when the washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would produce a lot of noise on spin as they coins get tossed around inside. Usually, spinning the drum by hand will not reproduce the noise in the case of coins as the coins drop to the bottom of the tub when the washing machine isn't spinning.

A light scraping noise when the drum is turned by hand is usually a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum.

A high pitched squealing or harsh noise can be motor bearing wear. This can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor alone.

A knocking noise can be a loose tub weight. This would be worse with heavy loads and would not be present on spin with no washing in. This is because the knocking noise is caused when the tub (or outer drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub doesn't move. Another symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete dust under the washing machine.

It's very tempting to ignore noises while the washing machine is still otherwise working. Some noises can be ignored as they will not develop into serious faults. Other noises, if left, will cause extensive damage and can end up costing considerably more than if tackled early or these days writing the washing machine off. Of course the problem is that you can't tell which of the categories a noise falls into - so ignore them at your own risk.

Apr 30, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

UBNORMAL SOUND DURING DRY SPIN


Washing machine is noisyIt's very difficult to advise on a noisy washing machine because you often can't describe noises accurately enough. People can describe the same noises quite differently.
Here's a general guide though -
  • If a washing machine is rumbling, and very noisy on spin, the main suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on many washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing seal fails. (Hotpoint and Zanussi in particular in my experience) To check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings may have gone. There should be a constant rumble all the time the drum is revolving.
  • Another drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure can be a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes) although this patch is not always present. There are usually two small holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with grease and rust if water has got into the bearings.
  • Loud noises when turning the drum by hand can also be caused if the drum itself splits, or the spider at the back of the drum has come away from the drum, is corroded or even broken. This would normally be a loud noise on each revolution of the drum whereas the noise when drum bearings have gone is constant all the time the drum is turning. Lifting the drum checking for excessive play can often reveal a broken or loose drum spider which sometimes only occurs at certain points round the drum (the spider has three arms and is bolted to the drum at three points)
  • Coins or other obstructions trapped inside the tub under the drum can make horrendous noises as they get tossed about on spin. They often don't make the noise unless laundry is in though. Look out for obvious dints and creases in the drum itself as evidence of a coin or similar stuck inside although be aware that it only shows there's been an obstruction in at some point and the coin could have fallen into the sump hose or filter and not actually be the cause of the noise at this time
  • Other causes of a noisy washing machine are coins and other obstructions inside the water pump. This will cause noise when the washing machine is emptying the water. Coins or other obstructions can get trapped between the outer tub and the inner drum. This would produce a lot of noise on spin as the coins get tossed around inside. Often, spinning the drum by hand will not reproduce the noise in the case of coins because the coins drop to the bottom of the tub and lay flat when the washing machine isn't spinning
  • A light scraping or ratchety noise when the drum is turned by hand is commonly a bra wire trapped between the tub and drum. They can often be removed from underneath with the sump hose taken off. It's always worth checking that the wire isn't poking through one of the holes in the drum which can be pulled back out from inside the door. It's rare, but I've retrieved 3 or 4 this way over the years.
  • A high pitched squealing or harsh noise can be motor bearing wear. This can also be checked for by taking the belt off and running the motor alone.
  • A knocking noise can be a loose tub weight. This would normally be worse with heavy loads and would not be present on spin with no washing in. This is because the knocking noise is caused when the tub (or outer drum) shakes about on spin. Without washing inside the drum the tub doesn't move. Another symptom of a loose tub weight is grey concrete dust under the washing machine. Warning: These days most washing machines have plastic tubs and over tightening a tub weight bolt can easily shear the bracket resulting in a new tub being required. Try loctite. Often, once a tub weight has come loose the plastic tub is damaged anyway especially if it isn't caught early enough
  • Sometimes a badly worn drive belt can cause a surprising amount of noise. I've even come across some where i was convinced the drum bearings were gone until I took off the belt and spun the drum by hand to find no noise.
It's very tempting to ignore noises while the washing machine is still otherwise working. Some noises can be ignored as they will not develop into serious faults. Other noises, if left, will cause extensive damage and can end up costing considerably more than if tackled early or these days writing the washing machine off. Of course the problem is that you can't tell which of the categories a noise falls into - so ignore them at your own risk. If you have a specific noise you are concerned about, either call an engineer

Apr 11, 2010 | Samsung Washing Machines

1 Answer

Marble slipped between the tub and the opening of duet washer


Sounds like you must disassemble the washer. Not that hard to do. Be sure and unplug it first!

Dec 08, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Something rattling under the drum


Strangely enough, I found the problem to be in the motor. If the noise becomes pronounced during the high speed spin cycle, then that is the problem. I had a repairman out for mine and they wanted to replace the drum, however when I took off the back and removed the belt, I could turn the drum separate from the motor and could hear that the problem was in the motor bearing, not the drum. Hope this helps.

Nov 18, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite Washer (He3t) front load


The bearing in the duet is attached to the outer rear tub of the washer. You have to remove the whole rear half of the outer tub. Take off the back and you will see all the screws around the tub where they attach together. you have to buy the whole rear half too. They wont let you replace just the bearings.

Nov 18, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Sounds like there is a marble or coin in drum


remove the heater which is held by 1 19mm nut in the centre and prize out carefully with a screwdriver. you can then see the gap between the drum and the tub and fish out whatever is in there. a common problem

Jul 06, 2008 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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