Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:
If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.
Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.
Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.
Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage
ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
he stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefusebox
to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
of the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!
The broiler - range broiler comes on by itself and stays on until power cut.
The control board is likely faulty or the broil element filament shorted to the broil element outer housing. If the broil element looks normal, no cracks or blistering, I would suspect a faulty electronic oven control.
The only other possibility is an unlikely one but you could have a short in the wire harness which could allow current to flow through at LEAST one leg on the power supply through the element uncommanded. Stuck keys are very common on some ovens and RARELY are fixed without replacement of the control. (but can try cleaning them)
Hint hint is the oven is programmable, and someone might have actually programmed it to come on without realizing it or a power surge reset it!
BURNERS: the burners going on BY themselves, since there are usually a number of safeguards involved. Such as the ignition spark IS only produced when the knob has been pushed in and rotated to that position. Not to say that it can't happen ... Which if it does I would suspect the wire harness or infinite switch is shorted somewhere?
GAS oven starts on its own:
Possibly a contact inside the thermostat is telling the burner to come on sporadically causing the oven to heat up.
The thermostat CONTROL should prevent the igniter from getting voltage when it is in the "off" position. Hence a defective thermostat may cause ignition on its own. The thermostat is the part behind the turn knob that you turn on the oven with. TO TEST OVEN CONTROL: Disconnect one wire from the terminals being tested, and clip on the METER tester probes. Set the oven temperature dial to 300°F. If the control has more than two terminals, identify which terminals to test, using the diagram located on the rear panel, inside the storage drawer or control panel, or in the owner's manual.
Test confirm with a multi meter for OHMS continuity when in the on and off position. If it stays on or closed in the off position its defective.
1.To remove: capillary tube:
Capillary tube is a rod like thing that extends about 3-4 inches from the back of the oven. If you look inside the oven, you will be able to find the capillary tube. The capillary tube senses temperature inside the oven, this information is passed through the rod to the temperature control. When the temperature of the oven reaches the set temperature at the temperature control, the power is turned OFF. When the temperature goes down, the power is turned on and the oven heats up again .The capillary tube is generally held by screws and a cover plate.
2.Remove capillary tube:
If your range is self-cleaning type, you need to take extra care. The capillary tube in a self cleaning range normally has toxic liquid; the liquid may spread into your body. Be ready with cold soapy water and a towel. If liquid falls on you by accident, carefully wipe off the liquid with the towel and wash the affected area with soapy water.
Remove the screw and the cover plate that hold the capillary tube (if there is any). Push it slowly through the hole at the back of the oven. Be careful not to strain the rod that goes to the temperature control. Pull out the capillary tube from the oven.
Remove temperature control:
Label the wires connected to the temperature control. If possible, take a close-up picture of the terminals and the wires using a digital camera.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!
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