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My black tank inside the condenser is broke and I would like to kmow what would be cheaper for me, to buy a new condenser or just to buy this black tank.

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What do you mean by black tank, the compressor or expansion tank? If it's the compressor, then buy a new unit. Or if your doing it yourself, buy a compressor. Get two different quotes from your contractor and see what is the better deal?

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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Toto air conditioner


I'm not sure if this unit has a condensate pump. If it's located below grade and drains to the outside it likely should have one. The condensate pump may be bad or the pressure switch that activates the pump is bad. The pressure switch measures the amount of water in the condensate collection tank. It serves the same purpose as the float in a toilet. Also, check the condensate hose at the inlet of the pump. It could be a bad pump, a leak in the the collection tank, or a clogged hose.

Aug 23, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Would a home a/c stop dripping condensation after a tune-up WAY, WAY overdue?


It should drip. That's the humidity from your house. Call them out again to have them verify the drain pipe is clear. Tell them you think they did something wrong. If it doesn't drain right, it will pool inside the unit and cause the internal AC panels to rust if the drain pan (below the condenser) overflows. Or worse, it might be a source for mold to grow inside the system. The later being unlikely, but not impossible.

May 16, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a blown BDP 7.5 ton Condsor unit. The old unit is R22. I want to replace it with a new BDP which has R410A. Question: I am being told that If I flush my old R22 Air Handler Coil & install a TXC...


I've done what you are describing - "however" you could void the warranty on the new condenser - by not having 'matching' coils (inside/outside). I would do some serious checking with whoever you are buying the new condenser from.
Note: I would (if possible) go back with a R-22 condenser unit (price is about the same), and you would not have any 'warranty or matching issues' going on.

Jun 03, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Help! I have a Kelvinator 2 KSR25F split system a/c that is not working. Every time I turned it on it trips the safety switch. I had a guy come out and look at it and he told me that the compressor is gone...


The compressor is the last resort. there could be another problem causing the system to trip circuit. sounds like a wire grounding inside the condensing unit control panel located at the contacts. check there first and inspect the other wires inside the panel of the outside unit before you decide to replace either a compressor or outside unit.

Nov 27, 2010 | Electrolux Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Outside fan doesn't work. Inside it sounds like it works - there is a fan sound - but no cool air What part is broke?


If your compressor kicks on outside but the fan on top doesnt you need to ck the capacitor to the fan and the wiring to each. There is a schematic inside the elect panel on the outside unit it will give you an idea where the capacitor is it will be a silver or grey metal device with three wires coming out of it or you will have one small and one larger one with two wires coming out of each. the fan runs off a 5uf capacitor and the compressor a 35 uf capacitor. The most obviouse thing will be burnt or melted wires inside the elect panel when a capacitor goes bad it usually takes wiring with it. If wiring looks good buy a new motor and replace the capacitor at the same time. take the elect motor with you so it can be matched up.

Aug 08, 2010 | Ruud Matching Split Air Conditioner

1 Answer

What to do with an E2 error message.


that means the water condensate tank is full, you must unplug the unit, take it outside, unscrew the condensate tank plug cap, pull out the black rubber plug and let the water flow out until empty. then replace the plug, screw cap back on, roll inside, plug in and resume cooling. good luck! :)

Jul 19, 2010 | NewAir ACP-1000E Portable Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Exhaust and condensation receptacle


the condensation water goes into the dehumidifier tank thats in the unit.

i was missing the exhaust tube and made one out of a flexable tubbing from a dryer. you can take the (6) screws of the plate over the exhaust exit and attach it to the plate.

at the same time vakume out the dost that will be on the intake coils below that while the cover is off.

May 20, 2010 | Pelonis KCD-25YI Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Replaced condenser and had health problems. Now


Hi Bill, I am sorry you became ill from this or anything else. On a condenser, did you change out the condenser coil as in removing the freon and cutting it out, or did you remove the complete unit on top, compressor and all? If you changed out the complete unit on top, the wiring should be fairly easy to connect. Take your power in which would be 220 volts from your power source. More then likely, you will have 2- black hot wires in and a ground, either bare copper or green which grounds to the new unit case. You will have 2- new wires from the new condenser , red and black or different colors, it will not matter as each line will be 120 volts, these will be the load wires to the new unit. Connect 1- wire to one coming in, either one, and do the same to the other wire. Secure the ground and you are set. If this is what you are doing or want to do, this is the way. Once you get power to the new unit, the controls will do the rest for you. Just turn it on inside and you will be up and running. Keep me posted.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Dec 03, 2009 | Coleman Mach III Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Danby dpac120068 Air Condtioner, where does the hose go? and do you fill the tank in the back with water?


hose goes into a bucket or out a window, drained, etc. it's the drain hose for the condensation. alternatively you can use the tank to catch the condensation, which must be emptied periodically.

Jun 14, 2009 | Danby Portable Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Carrier air handler tonnage?


That is a fairly large difference. It is usually ok to have the inside evap. coil and blower up to 1 ton larger than the outside condenser. That will make the unit slightly more efficient as well as less likely to freeze up on low airflow situations. It is not recommended to install a new condenser on an old evap coil. There has been a lot of changes to the design of the coils in the last little while. For example a 10 year old 2 ton coil may only have 3 cubic feet of volume but a new 2 ton coil may have 4 cubit feet of volume.

There are many factors that may have infulenced the decision on what size condenser to install. Many of which can only be done by visiting the home and doing alot of work, checking the duct sizing bioth supply and return, inspecting the insulation and windows of the home etc. etc. Most of the time that never gets done. You can blame the contractor for not doing a complete check, but at the same time you can blame the customer because many contractors that are that good loose the job to a cheaper bid that did not no any of the research. It is a catch 22 for everyone involved.

There is ALOT more to sizing equipment that many people think, sadly that also includes many HVAC contractors. Way too many people use "rule of thumbs" or flat out "guess".

Sorry for the rant but your queston can only be answered by a good well educated HVAC contractor visiting your home. That type of a contractor is getting hard to find these days in such a price competetive world.

Oct 14, 2008 | Carrier Heating & Cooling

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