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I wouldn't say it's a lack of the wheel being cheap I'd be more inclined to say it's "because" the wheel is cheap. Seriously, Have you tried to calibrate the wheel using the windows calibration routine found in your control panel under Game Controllers.
Obviously the wheel is operating but barly sorry, barely. That means it is working and giving input to your computer so if that input isn't enough you either need to calibrate in windows or maybe there's even a calibration routine in the game you're playing, maybe under options. Calibration by the way is found under properties on the Game Controller section. Try it.
The test section of the windows section will tell you just how far your wheel is turning or directing your cars by means of a box with a cross in it. The more you turn the wheel the further that cross will move. Test it first, then do the calibration and then test it again. I'm sure you'll see a big difference.
Open your control panel. Click on "Printers and other hardware". Click on "Game Controllers". Then click on the wheel controller. From there, you should be able to assign the buttons and fix the offset.
>> Back to: All Products > Logitech > DRIVING FORCE FEEDBACK STEERING WHEEL W/PEDALS USB FOR PS2 (VGITECHWHEELPEDALSUSBPS2) > Troubleshooting
Do you have a Logitech steering wheel, or a 2005 Mazda RX8 ?
Get the Mazda towed to a qualified repair-shop;
it is _NOT_ safe to drive it "as is",
given that your "power" steering is becoming "manual" steering, unpredictably.
to chk the sensor on the calibration unplug the wheel from the usb port and plug back in if the wheel turns left then right and centers the sensor is fine. go to the control panel>game controller>properties and test the wheel if everything is working there it is a problem with the game. look for a profiler or calibration utility in the game itself to bring back to center.
"if u realy want this wheel to work u need to open it up, and there is a rail u can move foward to lock the wheel into 180, then fire up your pc ps3 or game and let it calibrate. and it will stay in 180 (left led on)then after it has done that push the rail backwards for 900 (both leds on). and its all good, the rail is white plastic and is under the big metal bar. u cant miss it. ive cut a hole in mine at the top so i can move the rail whenever :)"
Hey! I had a similar problem! Only the weel tried to calibrate itself, but itjust "twitched"
So I tried replacing the power cord with a similar one from an older wheel. Didn't work for me.
I opened it up and voilá, same problem as "epicname"! I tightened the screws on the optical sensor and put it back together. Now it works like a treat! So i guess if it's the power cord it won't react, If it's the optical sensor it will twitch, notice it doesn't get a signal and give up from there.
I don't know if this will really help anyone, as they would just send it back to the shop and get it fixed for free. But couldn't find the reciept, and often find it's better to fix things myself than to let the local shop send it to their usual place.
THIS IS JUST A LAST RESORT!! ALWAYS TRY TO GET THE WHEEL REPLACED OR FIXED PROFESSIONALLY!!!
Remove all the screws underneath, even the larger black ones. Remove the steering wheel by unscrewing the bolts on the front panel and the three larger screws under the little circuit board in the wheelhub.
Remove the bonnet. theres a black box on the left engine wich contain the sensor. If it's loose you're able to rattle it. If you're not, the sensor is most likely not the problem. Unscrew the mainboard and remove the bracket it sits on. Now the Force Feedback rig should be loose. Flip it over and pop off the little black cap on the sensor(it's just pushed on) Put some locktite on and fasten the two screws that hold the sensor mount (unscrew and remove the sensor board so you can get to the last screw)