Spontaneously shorted, now blowing fuses on amp too.
About 2 days ago I got in my car and noticed that my two RF 10" subs were not hitting (this after almost a year of working well)(I don't know if this could have anything to do with it, but its been about 0 degrees here for a week or so and during that time I'd get a small audible pop from the back sometimes). I could get a few random bumps out of them if I cranked it up pretty high, but other than that nothing. I checked out the amp and when the volume is low, the emblem stayed lit (faded when the bass should have hit, then relit) but no sound from speakers. When I cranked it up, it would hit hard for a second then go into protect mode for a few seconds. At first I thought it was one of the subs because when I unhooked it, the other bridged channel & sub would work fine. But, I checked the resistance through the connectors for all 4 channels of the amp and one channel came back funky (the readings kept going up and up), not like the other 3 channels that all read someting like 4.35 ohm. That was the first problem.
Next, I tried to hook it back up and now everytime I turn it on it blows the amp's two onboard 30amp fuses. I am using the same power lead and ground that was connected for the last year. When I removed the cover of the amp could I have screwed it up? I just used the ohmeter a couple places. Maybe something happened when I connected the power back to it?
Is there a fix? or way to test for a fix?
Time to get a new amp?
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Because it's drawing more power than the fuse can handle get a fuse with a higher rating. A 100 app fuse worked great for main power with my setup 760w amp a 15"sub 2 10"subs and a 12" sub. Also my amp had 2 30amp fuses on it one for each channel but I ran everything out of one channel.
what wattage are the subs and amp? if your subs are more wattage than your amp, your amp will blow fuses as cant handle the output to your subs. for example. you have 2 500 watt subs and a 300 watt amp, that is no good as amp isnt powerful enough. if you have 2 500 watt subs you need at least a 1200 watt amp to power them both. 200 watt more than the combined wattage of subs as amps should never be turned up to max as they tend to blow and overheat more quickly. 80% volume on amps is reccomended by installers and manufactures.
Generally, if you are using the manufactures fuse rating you can use a slightly higher rating and it will resolve the blowing fuses. Fuses supply resistance, if there isn't enough resistance you'll fry the system board in the amplifier. But if you have 25 amp fuses installed, install 30 amp, if you have 30 install 35 amp, 35 install 40. Anything higher will damage the amp.
Hope this helps.
A rare chance, something may be internally wrong with the amp and shorting it out which will blow the fuse.
Use the incorrect wiring of subs to the amp, you'll blow fuses and damage the amp from it turning off consistently. The amp should be running at 2 ohm stereo stable or 4 ohm mono stable.
Very few amps are designed to run at 1 ohm or less. Not to mention the subs can't handle it.
When speakers are wired in the wrong way the will do the "pushing out" you're describing. Basically the polarities have been reversed and if kept like this over a period of time will blow the speaker. Best thing to do is to disconnect the power by the negative on the amp and take out the fuse from the power supply. Check the wires running from the amp to the subs, negative to negative and positive to positive. I know it sounds basic but many people do mix it up! I would also check to see what channels the subs have been wired into?
Best way is to have one sub from channel 1 and the other sub from channel 2 for example. Or if its a bridged 4 channel amp, have 1 sub running from channel 1&2, and the second sub running from channel 3&4 still making sure of the polarities. Again this all depending what kind of amp and sub you have.
A 4 channel (bridged) 1000W amp. 250W max per channel or 500W per 2 channels! So if you have 2 500W subs, by connecting one to a single channel will decrease subs ability due to the lack of power supplied. However by combining 2 channels you optimize the output!
Once you know all your wiring from your amp to subs are ok/good connections/good wires etc you shouldnt have to "wiggle the wires" to get it to work as this is just a bad connection. Also ensure that no 2 wires are touching. Make sure that the master volume on the amp is turned down. You dont need this to be on loud at all, in fact far from it or you'll risk damaging both the amp and subs!
it sounds like one channel in your amp had shorted and letting dc go to the speaker...a speaker is an electromagnet and requires ac to make it pulse..the amp has a blown channel and would have to be repaired and a factory service center...there is no quick fix..
You did not say whether or not you checked the wiring going to your subs. Many times, a shorted or grounded speaker wire will cause an amp to fail. And if the amp powers up OK with the subs disconnected, I'd suspect one or more of the wires.
good day, check your spkr impedance, if 4oms use a posive spkr dividing network. if stills blows up replace a higher amperage of your fuse. ex.4A raise it up to 5A. the your amps consume higier current if more spkr wattage.