Hi my washer fills with water, but thats it, i can move the inside both ways quite easily, so i know its not the pulley, or belt, and the motor is good, i'm thinking its just the reset button, which i cant seem to find on this partiular washer machine....single mom of six, cant go more then a hour without a working washer machine..the inside sais stylemaster 90765....thanks
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Re: washer fills with washer
The problem is either electronic (NOT GOOD) or the sensors that wheigh the drum...
either way you are more than likely going to have to either get someone to service at and check what is faulty and replace it.
I do apologise if im presuming a single mopther of 6 will not be stripping a washmachine, locating the central circuitry and weight sensors, testing them, determing if they are faulty, then sourcing a suppliers, purchasing the parts then reinstalling them and then finally reassembling the washing machine...
if you can do the above then i take my hat off to you...
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"If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it."
Check to hose to the water level control. It goes from the outside of the tub up to the control which is located in the same area as the timer. It's usually round with the end of that tube and at least 2 wires connected to it. Disconnect the hose and blow air through it. Reconnect and try again. Still no fill, try filling with that tube disconnected. Watch it the entire time as with the tube off the water should not stop. If it fills all the way with the tube off the water control unit has a problem.
machines, including those built by Frigidaire, have internal pumps. These pumps
help drain out the water from the washer tub between the wash, rinse, and spin
cycles. If the pump is damaged or the pump pulley system is frozen/stiff, the
water can become trapped in the washer tub. In both cases, the pump assembly
needs to be replaced. You can check by looking for a few signs that a pump is
dying or already dead.
1 Start the washer and wait for the washer tub
to fill with water. If you do not hear water or hear a motor whirring, the
washer motor may be dead.
2 Open the washer lid in mid-cycle. Note
whether or not the inner tub is still spinning around. The inner tub is the
inside surface of the washing compartment with many holes for water draining.
If the tub is not spinning but the motor is running, it is possible the pump is
dead. Check the pump pulley by removing the pump from the washer and trying to
rotate it by hand. If the pulley doesn't turn freely and is frozen or stiff,
replace it. Also, if the agitator is moving but the tub isn't, this is a sign the
pump is dying. For front-loading washers, do not attempt to open the door
mid-cycle. Look through the glass door. If there is enough water to come up
against the door, the pump is malfunctioning.
3 Wait for the washer to finish its cycle. Open
the unit. If water is still in the tub, the pump is likely dying or dead.
sounds like either you have a stuck pulley or pump remove water with shop vac and tilt washer against wall get under washer remove belt spin small pulley by hand does the pump pulley move all directions freely if not something stuck in pump or is belt melted or worn out
Turn off the water to the washer, unscrew the hoses ( do one completely before moving to the other)Once you unscrew the first hose you will see a small filter screen inside the opening on the washer,Remove the screen and clean it, replace it and reattach the hose,Now go to the other hose and do the same thing, once both are done and hooked back up, turn the waterback on and everything should work as normal.
The control is unable to properly detect motor speed and the machine will shut down. If a failure occurs during high-speed spin the door will be unlocked after 3 minutes.
* Check wire harness connections between the Drive Motor/Tachometer and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU) * Check the Drive Motor * Check the MCU * Check the Wire Harness begin troubleshooting right at the motor. Why start there? Because the motor is one of the prime suspects and it's easy to check. Remove the back panel and unwind the belt from the drum pulley. Now turn the motor pulley (sans belt) by hand. If it doesn't turn smoothly and easily, you have a bad motor.
If the motor pulley turns smoothly and easily by hand, next step is to run the motor with the belt still removed from the motor pulley. If the motor seems to run fine that way, put the belt back on and run it again. If the motor won't run under load (with the belt on), then that's another sign that the motor is bad.
Suppose the motor turns easily and freely by hand but won't run either with or without the belt. This is a more subtle condition because we're probably dealing with a bad MCU or flakey wire harness somewhere between the motor and MCU, or between the MCU and the CCU.
One trick that often works at this point is to remove and reinsert all wire connections at the board and motor. This tends to clean the small amount of corrosion that will build up on the connections. After you do this put the machine into a service cycle (see the instructions in the tech sheet found inside the unit or you can ). Part of the service cycle is running the motor at certain set speeds which checks the tach.
If you've removed/reinserted the wire harnesses and still no joy, then usually the problem is the MCU.
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1. Clogged drain line or water pump Check to see if there's something stuck inside the pump or the drain hose connected to the pump (pump is usually located at the bottom and towards the back of the washing machine).
2. Water Pump If the drain line isn't clogged, you may have a problem with the water pump such as a frozen pulley or a broken impeller. If that's the case replace the water pump. Note: if you have a belt driven washer, check the belt(s) for cracks, as this would be a perfect time to replace the belt(s) if needed.
**The most common issue will be an obstructed hose or, line...
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine. No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.