a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Well it kinda depends on the saw you have. But either way you have to losen the bolts on the side of the saw by the bar and look for a flat head screw either between them bolts or at the front of the saw, some were beside the bar and chain. turn till chain is tight but not to tight and then tighten side bolts. Now if you have an older saw the do the same thing with the bolts only on the bar there should be a slot for a flat head screw driver just turn till chain is tight and tighten the bolts back up...
Dive Belt??? You mean CHAIN? Loosen the one or two bolts where the chain enters the body of the saw. They are right on the outside of the saw. Then, in front of the bolts, near the BAR, there will be a Bar-Tensioner screw. It is usually a flat-head. Turn this screw to extend the bar, thereby tightening the chain. Then, retighten the bolts. Leave the chain a little bit loose, because as you use the saw, it will heat up, and the chain will get too tight, resulting in premature bar wear.
First thing I would do would be to loosen the thumb screw fully so the chain is as loose as you can get it Next, loosen the chain bar and pull it out as far as possible which will take up the slack in the chain itself. Re tighten the chain bar. Afterward, you can perform detailed adjustment on the chain by playing with the thumb screw.
This solution has always worked for me and my various chainsaws.
There is a hole in the brake/clutch cover (that you take off when you change your chain) under the attachment bolts through which a bolt protrudes. Use a small screw driver or the wrench that comes with the saw to turn this bolt (it has a slot in it) to either tighten or loosen the chain.
I take it to mean the exact same chain that was on there before now appears to be too long. Obviously, this is a clue. These things don't stretch.
All chain saws will have the chain get loose with use. You should be checking this and make an adjustment before it gets so loose that it comes off which is very dangerous and can cause injury.
When it appears too long, I can think of two things that may be happening.
1. It really is too long and you need to find the adjustment screw near the base of the blade and screw it in (with a long screw driver or the tool that came with the unit when you bought it) which pushes the chain saw blade further out and tightens the chain. Usually, to get the blade back on, I have to tighten the screw and loosen the chain and then make it tight again after everything is together, so experiment with the process of tightening and loosening the screw. (Note, the loosening and tightening assumes that the nuts on the big bolts that hold on the blade have been loosened to allow the blade to slide. Make sure this loosening was done first.)
2. The chain may have slipped of the sprocket gear that drives the chain. If you have not taken the blade off you can't see this gear well and might not notice. Disassemble the blade and put it back together seeing that the chain is properly seated. Don't screw the bolts tight before you adjust the tension in the blade as in my remarks above. Tighten the bolts well, as the final step.
Losen the bar mounting nut, then losen the chain tension adjustment screw until the chain can be reinstalled, then tighten the tension screw until the chain just sags 1/8" or so at the center of the bar then retighten the bar mounting nut.
The adjusting screw is usually found on the right side of the saw close to the bar, near the bottom. You will need to loosen the two nuts on the side that hold the bar tight. Loosen them until the bar lifts up and down (about 1/2") with your finger.
There should be a combination spark plug wrench and screwdriver that came with your saw. If not, use a slot screwdriverto tighten the chain while you hold the bar up with two fingers.
When adjusted properly, there should be no hanging slack in the chain when it is warm. It should rest just against the bar so that you can grasp it with gloves on and pull it toward you.
When it is tightened thusly, tighten the two side nuts while holding the bar up with two fingers. If you don't tighten the two nuts enough, it will loosen and the chain will have slack again shortly.
Remember that the hotter the chain gets, the looser it will be. Make sure your chains is getting plenty of bar oil. Never use regular motor oil.
There are usually two 7/16" nuts on the side of the chain saw. Loosen those a little first, then turn the screw to tighten the chain - not too tight or you'll stretch out the chain when you use it. Don't forget to re-tighten the two nuts before using the chainsaw.