Question about Roper RAS8445KQ Top Load Washer

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Amana NAV2330 Wont Agitate or Spin

Ok... Our washer stopped working. We found a penny lodged in the pump and the top of the pump was stripped out. We replaced the pump and the belt. Washer will fill, and go through the cycles and drain, but the agitator wont spin and the tub wont spin.

I watched it from the inside to see what was going on. It looks like the little white piece that is on the pulley is supposed to meet with the other little white piece that is on the bottom of the shaft, but they are not. The pulley spins fine, but it seems like the shaft should be moving up and down. When I press on the brake myself I can unlock to tub and spin it. When I spin the shaft myself the agitator spins.

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  • AKoch199 Dec 08, 2008

    We ran the belt around the pulley on the pump and to the pulley on the shaft. I did hook up the spring. I have even tried when the cycle is running putting more tension on the belt but that does not help either

  • AKoch199 Dec 09, 2008

    I double checked the belt last night. It wraps around the pulley part of the pump and than the pulley on the shaft. Than there is a pressure thing and when I connect the spring it puts more tension on the belt.

    Last night I ran a wash cycle. I pushed the bottom helix thing thats on the shaft up into the helix thing thats part of the pulley. It agitated fine. But when it went into spin cycle, the bottom helix dropped down and the tub still would not spin. Than when I ran the wash cycle again without pushing the bottom helix into the top one, nothing happened.

    What is supposed to be moving up and down to connect the helix's and to hit the brake? The shaft or the pulley?

  • AKoch199 Dec 10, 2008

    Ok first I want to say thank you so much for helping me.

    I understand what you are saying... kinda. I know that the two helix's kinda lock in with each other to create agitation. The bottom helix is fixed on the bottom of the shaft. When I put it into cycle, the bottom helix is about an inch and a half too low to lock in with the other helix on the pulley. Is the shaft supposed to be moving up at all? Or is my shaft too low? I can manually slide the shaft up so that the two helix's meet, and than it will agitate, but when that cycle ends, the shaft drops back down and then they are too far apart again.

    Again... thank you so much for helping me!!

  • AKoch199 Dec 10, 2008

    Ok. Well thank you very much for all of your help! I really appreciate it. And I will call a technician to take a look at it. You have been extremely helpful. Thank you for your patience!!



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  • Roper Master
  • 2,651 Answers

I would assume that perhaps you did not wind hte belt correctly arround the legs of the pump and therefore are not putting the correct tension on hte pulley(remember to hook spring back up to tension idler?)

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons Dec 09, 2008

    the white plastic "helix",(lowest plastic cam, under pulley. when spun one direction has no affect on hte upper half of pulley,brake locked unit agitates, but when the motor reverses, hte cam portion of the helkix should push up on the pulley and release the brake.thus "spinning" the tub.. perhaps the "cam" portion of the helix has worn through, not grabbing the pulley?(doesnt seem likely, sure wish i had a diagram of how the belt is wrapped around the pump, just seems like thats the issue)

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons Dec 09, 2008

    the "shape" of the helix, is what applies pressure, one half is angled up to a point, and the opposite side of the pulley is matched the same. one direrction it simply moves around with eachouther, when its reversed, the helix and pully ride up on eachother, thus pushing up on the pulley, relesaing hte brake. this might be helpful, it was the only one i found, seems hes having the same issue

  • Ron Coons
    Ron Coons Dec 10, 2008

    ummm no there is NOT supposed to be that much separation between them that is the bottom shaft of transmission, so i cant even think of a reason for that separation other than faulty transmission, but would hate to condem the machine for a poorly diagnosed issue, the tranny job probably 3-4 hundred dollars, and would require a tech for the simple reason of the specialty tool required to remove the tub seals and hub bolts.( not worth the hundred dollar investment in a one time use tool.) so although i normally would not do it i would recommend perhaps calling a tech to give at least a look at, dont know the cost of a service call in your area but the 50-80 may be a worthwhile investment just to see if your not missing something before condemning the transmission.

    And it is no bother, I choose to do this just for this reason ,,bugs me (and im sure you as well) as to why this wont work



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