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Whirlpool Model 110.20692 serial #2401647 Type 111

Hope you can help, my washer seems to go fine until the rinse cycle and beyond. It makes horrible sound (loud humming) and the inner tub does not move. The tube in the middle of the tub spins, (the plastic thing with the fabric softener hole) but the tub cannot even be moved by hand.

Any thoughts? The washer was purchased in 2000..

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6 Suggested Answers

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Leaking // bleach/fabric softener dispener isnt emptying

Stara, sounds like you have a couple of issues going on here. On the model you posted there was a service flash on the dispensor. They redesigned it to provide an additional air gap for release. There was also a flash on the bleach hose splitting and leaking. The service flash numbers are 26-747 for the despensor and 26-746 for the hose leak. It almost sounds like your transmission is not going into it's nuetral drain. After completeing the agitation, it should drain for about 90 seconds before spinning. This would be a gearcase problem. The gearcase is covered for a period of 5 years, part only. You might want to check where you bought this unit and see if the parts are covered under warranty. Including the dispensor and hose. You would have to pay the labor..Hope this info helps

Posted on Jun 13, 2006

  • 641 Answers

SOURCE: Loud clicking/thumping in rinse and spin cycle

It doesn't look like a motor problem !!! It seems like an unbalanced tub issue. The machin has suspension dampers and suspension rods, and it's look like one of them was damaged or "run away" from its location during machin's movement. Goog luck !!

Posted on Jun 28, 2006

Jimster
  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: Bleach and Fabric Softener Dispensers don't work

Need a litle more inflormation from you if you could. What is the make and model number of the unit? Does water flow through the dispensers for rinsing action? If it is a front loader or higher dollar machine, the dispensers are sometimes controlled by the timer or control boards. They control water valves that control the rinsing water entering the chambers. This raises the level, and causes a siphon or flushing action at certian points of the wash cycles. There could be a nuber of issues, a bad timer or control board, bad water solinoid(s), wiring issues, or clogged hoses or ports. If this is a new washer, do you still have a service policy or warranty left with it? Let me know what kind the unit is and a model number and will try to help you out a little more. Thanks Jim

Posted on Nov 18, 2007

  • 213 Answers

SOURCE: Problems with fabric softener

you either have low cold water pressure being caused by the screens on both ends of the cold waterline being clogged by sediment or one of the solinoids for the water inlet is bad. try removing cold water hose and cleaning both screens if that doesnt help youll need a solinoid

Posted on Nov 20, 2007

dazmaraz
  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: WFLI2440 FRONT LOAD FABRIC SOFTENER NOT DISPENSING

your soap drawer is most likely to be blocked , the only true way of clearing the blockage is to take the soap dispenser completely out . you will see that all the jets will be blocked ,you can do this before taking it all apart by taking the drawer out band looking up, if it looks clean ie; no black gunge then it may be a water valve problem, as the cold fill side has 2 internal valves both have come on together to clear the conditioner compartment.

Posted on Feb 15, 2008

IrishDruid
  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: not spinning

It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on Jun 14, 2008

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