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Oven control, possibly thermostat or oven selector switch

Oven will not function. There is very slight smoke deposit on thermostat. When oven selector switch and thermostat are set
red indicator light remains off. How do I check thermostat and
oven selector switches or other parameters that may be malfunctioning.
Whirlpool RS630PXK drop in range/oven

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My dacor ER36G oven will not ignite. The top range works perfectly. When I turn on the oven, I don't even hear the gas or the ignition sequence as I used to. The heat preset light just blinks and the oven will not engage. I have reset the circuit breakers just in case, but nothing works.

Posted on Jul 09, 2011

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Magic Chef cgr3765adc, oven will not turn off. If the unit is plugged in the oven ignites and would continue heating unless disconnected from electricity.


follow this test and fix it. God bless you

Bake Element

If the oven won't turn on, check the bake element. The bake element is a black tube near the bottom of the oven about as thick as a pencil. When it is operating normally, the bake element will glow red hot. If the oven won't turn on the bake element may have burned out. It is often obvious to see where the bake element has shorted out because there will be a hole or break in the element. If the bake element has burnt out or shorted it should be replaced.





Oven Igniter

Even though the oven igniter may be glowing, it may be too weak to allow the gas valve to open. If the oven won't turn on and the oven igniter glows for more than 90 seconds without igniting the gas flame, the oven igniter should be replaced. This is the most common part that fails when the oven won't turn on.




Broil Element

If the oven won't turn on, check the broil element. The broil element is a black tube near the top of the oven about as thick as a pencil. When it is operating normally, the broil element will glow red hot. If the oven won't turn on the broil element may have burned out and caused something else to short out. It is often obvious to see where the broil element has burned out because there will be a hole in the element or blisters on the outside of the element. Test the broil element using an Ohm meter. If it has continuity it's OK. If not, it should be replaced.





Incoming Power Problem

Although not as common, if the oven won't turn on it is possible that the appliance is not receiving proper voltage. Electric ovens require 220 volts of alternating current. If for some reason the appliance is receiving significantly less, the oven won't turn on. Check for proper voltage using a volt meter at the socket where the appliance plugs in.


Oven Control Board

The oven control board has a set of relays that turn on and off power to the bake and broil circuits according to the customer settings and sensor input. If the oven won't turn on the problem is usually with the heating components. However, if the oven control board is bad, it might not send voltage to the heating components. To determine why the oven won't turn on, first test the simpler components in the circuit. The oven control board usually can't be tested and will have to be replaced if it is defective.





Thermal Fuse

Although not as common, if the oven won't turn on the thermal fuse may have blown. The thermal fuse is designed to protect the appliance and help to prevent a fire. If the oven gets too hot, this fuse trips. The thermal fuse is not resettable and will have to be replaced. It can be checked for continuity. If it has continuity, it's OK. Not all ovens have a thermal fuse.






Relay Board

If the oven won't turn on and the appliance is equipped with an oven relay board, one of the relays on the board may have failed. Normally the oven relays are located on the main clock control board and not on a separate oven relay board. If the oven won't turn on it is more likely that the cause is one of the more common problems listed for the model. If the other, more common problems have been checked and Your oven has a relay board, it may need to be replaced. Oven relay boards are not repairable.





Oven Thermostat

If the oven won't turn on, the oven thermostat might be defective. Although this is not as common as other components, the oven thermostat sometimes fails completely and does not allow current to pass through. After checking other, more common components, consider replacing the oven thermostat.





Heat Selector Switch

If the oven won't turn on, be sure the heat selector switch is set to the right position. The heat selector switch completes the circuit to either send voltage to the bake or broil circuit. If the oven won't turn on, the heat selector switch might also be defective, although this is not very common. The heat selector switch is not repairable, if it is defective it will need to be replaced.





Oven Safety Valve

The oven safety valve works with the oven igniter to provide gas to the burner. If the oven won't turn on it is possible that the oven safety valve is defective. However, this is very rare. Most often, the oven igniter is too weak to allow the oven safety valve to open. If the oven won't turn on, check the igniter first.





Oven Valve and Pressure Regulator

If the gas oven won't turn on the oven valve and pressure regulator might be at fault. This is not common. Very often people misdiagnose a defective oven valve and pressure regulator when the oven won't turn on However, this is almost never the cause. Look at other, more common components before replacing these.

Nov 04, 2013 | Magic Chef Kitchen Ranges

3 Answers

Gas oven/broiler won't light


HI,

If neither the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring.

If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Jul 04, 2008 | Dynasty DGRSC 30 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Our Tappan oven does not heat up. The top burners all work, but the oven and broiler units are not heating up. What should we do?


Hi,
It sounds like you have a thermostat problem, or possibly a selector switch issue. If your able to trace wiring, I would trace back from the selector switch to the thermostat than to each element to located which component failed. This will help you solve the problem. If your unable too, you will need to call a service person in your area to locate and replace the failed component in your unit.
Thermostat information www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Oven-Thermostat/318059310/892148
Selector switch information www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Switch/318057910/833283

I hope this helps

Aug 14, 2011 | Tappan TEF242 Electric Kitchen Range

1 Answer

I HAVE A WHIRLPOOL ACCUBAKE RANGE, THE OVEN AND BROILER DOES NOT WORK. CHANGED SPARK MODULE AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. ANY SOLUTIONS?????


There are four other things to check on the oven, you will have to run a test on the broiler element, oven thermostat, selector switch and the oven cycling relay.
To test the broiler element, To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.
There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.
To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.
Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.
Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.
If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.
To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.
To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.
To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals
To test the oven thermostat: Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.
If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To remove the thermostat: Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
To test the selector switch: In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial. Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
To test the oven cycling relay: In order to gain access to the oven cycling relay, refer to your owner's manual. Removing the back panel of the range accesses most relays, but some ranges locate the relay under the oven compartment where the utility drawer is usually located. Now you can test the relay using your VOM. First, label each wire attached to the relay and remove them from the relay terminals. Using your VOM's ohmmeter function, set the range to R x 1 and touch one test lead to the terminal marked L and the other test lead to terminal H2. There should be NO continuity. Next, test the terminals marked H1 and H2. Again, there should be NO continuity. Finally, test the S and R terminals. Continuity should exist between these two terminals. If your relay does not pass all these tests, it is defective and should be replaced. To remove the relay, undo the two screws securing it to the range and replace with the correct new relay. Refer to your wiring diagram and labeled wires to ensure that the wires are on the correct terminals. Now replace the back panel or drawer and test the oven.
Hope this was helpful to you. Thanks for using fixya.

Jan 27, 2011 | Whirlpool Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

The oven does not heat, the fan works but no heat. The amber panel light on the front doesn't come on either.


There is a faulty component inside the unit that is why it is not turning on. The power is working fine, because it is the power that operates the fan. Therefore the panel light that is not turning on is as a result of a bad component. In order to be sure what the faulty component is i will advice that you run a test on the oven, test the oven selector switch, to test the switch,
  1. There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial.
  2. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested.
  3. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced.
To install a new oven selector dial switch,
  1. Remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached.
  2. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch.
  3. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals.
  4. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.
Also you need to test the thermostat of the oven to be sure the problem is not from there,
  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
  4. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To replace the thermostat of the oven, please follow the steps below:
  1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
To install a new thermostat,
  1. Reverse the disassembly procedures,
  2. Transfer the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this helped. Thank you for using fixya.

Jan 21, 2011 | Explorer Appliances B196 ELECTRIC Kitchen...

1 Answer

My gas oven, Super Capacity 465 the oven nor broiler light. The stove top works fine.


Hello there
Please read the entire solution i have provided below ok
It won't bake or broil If neither the oven nor the broiler heats, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)," push the knob in and try heating the oven and broiler again. If they still don't work properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring. Note... If the oven doesn't have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem is often with the thermostat. It's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem with either of these, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

Sep 28, 2010 | Whirlpool GS460 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Grill is not working


Hello,
Is The small amount of heat you are getting coming from the bottom element in the top oven or is half the top Grill element working.To start with you have a double grill element and either the whole element has gone or just half the element.This is controlled by a selector switch which could be at fault or the Thermostat that controls the temperature.

Hope this helps.

Jul 07, 2010 | Electrolux Insight EKC6049X Stainless...

1 Answer

It seems as if the thermostat for the oven is not working.


GAS UNIT:ELECTONIC IGNITION

1ST MAKE SURE .(IF ELECTRONIC IGNITION, CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE PLUG FOR YOUR STOVE IS PLUGGED IN. IF IT IS PLUGGED IN AND YOU CAN'T GET IGNITION, THEN CHECK FOR TRIPPED BREAKER OR BAD PLUG IN OUTLET, OR GFCI RESET SWITCH IS NOT TRIPPED. IF ALL IS OK THEN MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING GAS TO THE UNIT. CHECK SELECTOR KNOB FOR PROPER OPERATION OR CRACKS TO MAKE SURE IT IS OPERATING PROPERLY. IF ALL IS OK THEN REPLACE SELECTOR SWITCH,THERMOSTAT IS CONNECTED TO THIS SWITCH.)

GAS UNIT:NON ELECTRONIC IGNITION

1ST MAKE SURE ALL PILOTS ARE LIT. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GAS COMING TO THE UNIT. IF ALL IS OK, THEN DO THIS:
REPLACE OVEN SAFETY VALVE OR THERMOCOUPLE OR ADJUST THE FLAME HEIGHT AT THE OVEN PILOT. ALSO CHECK OVEN SELECTOR SWITCH FOR CRACKS OR PROPER OPERATON. CHECK THE SELECTOR SWITCH 1ST. IF ALL ARE OK THEN TURN OFF GAS TO THE UNIT FROM BEHIND THE STOVE AND REPLACE THE SELECTOR SWITCH, THE THERMOSTAT WIRE IS CONNECTED TO THIS SWITCH.TURN GAS BACK ON AFTER REPLACING THE NEW SWITCH AND CHECK FOR GAS LEAKS.

ELECTRIC UNIT:

CHECK THERMOSTAT KNOB FOR PROPER OPERATION. MAKE SURE IT IS NOT CRACKED. IF NOT CRACKED , LIFT OVEN TOP AND CHECK FOR LOOSE WIRING. IF ALL IS GOOD, CHECK FOR CONTINUITY ON UPPER AND LOWER ELEMENTS. CHECK BY REMOVING ELEMENTS, GET MULTIMETER, WITH ELEMENTS REMOVED, TURN METER TO VOLT/AMPS AND TOUCH RED TEST WIRE TO ONE END OF THE ELEMENT AND THE BLACK TEST WIRE TO THE OTHER END. IF IT READS OR MOVES AT ALL THE ELEMENT IS GOOD. TEST THE OTHER ELEMENT THE SAME WAY. IF ALL IS GOOD, RECONNECT ELEMENTS INSIDE THE OVEN. REPLACE THE ELEMENT. YOU CAN ALSO CHECK FOR VOLTAGE TO THE SELECTOR SWITCH WITH THE METER TO MAKE SURE IT IS GOOD BEFORE REPLACING THERMOSTAT.

Apr 13, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Thermador prd486edg oven/heating flashing 1/2and neither oven heats. help!


only code that is close ( e12) ( E12) look at display and make sure .. mm if the code is E12 then " CT oven:latch switch problem ) this may help Note E . 1 turn the clock selector knob to off 2 tweak the oven control by turning the clock selector slightly to the left ( counter clockwise ) this may stop the flashig message / beeping and clear the display window. " try it and pray mm .

Dec 09, 2009 | Thermador PG304BS Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

My smeg oven,(bottom fan oven) keeps getting hotter and hotter till it cuts out or the fuse blows when i switch it on no matter what temp i put it on,iam assuming its the thermostat,were is it and how yo...


The thermostat is obviously not working and you will need to replace it.

The thermostat is located behind the temperature selector switch on the control panel. The oven thermostat usually has a capilliary tube attached which goes in to the oven internally and is fixed on to the oven wall you will need to disconnect this also and remove it with the thermostat. Fitting the stat is the reverse of removal.

Make sure the electrical supply to the oven is switched off before starting work Hope this will FixYa.

Please remember to rate this solution.

Dec 12, 2008 | Smeg SUK91MFX5 Dual Fuel (Electric and...

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