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Re: replacemaent screws that hold phonelic plate to base
Take old screw to hardware store find a nut that fits then calculate the length of screw need in the same thread and size (safest way because even the same mfg will vary on bed screws and this is fool proof
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My springs removed themselves! The plunge plate flew out when I released the lock. The cylinders have a circlip groove at the top but they didn't use proper circlips, some cheap alternative that popped off. I had to completely disassemble the tool to re-fit them. I weakened the springs at the same time to hopefully prevent it happening again. Take out the brushes, take off the black top cover (two small and four big screws), take off the outer grip handle sides, then take off the grips carefully leaving the power side dangling, now remove the four long screws that hold the main blue body to the metal base and then draw out the metal parts including the motor rotor. With the springs fitted they will probably force it out as you undo the screws. The springs are then easily removed and you can re-assemble in the revers order.
I also fixed another major problem. The whole thing was packed with wood dust. It gets in though the slots in plastic base plate when the guide bush is not fitted, then up though holes in the base of the plunge guides. I bunged them up with silicon gunge.
I feel your pain! This is not uncommon. If the bit is slipping out of the collet, it is probably due to a dull bit. The 1/4 inch shanks are more prone to this than the 1/2 inch ones, which is why most new routers use 1/2 inch. (Think about the large size as being analogous to a larger wrench being able to exert a greater torque.) However, if the problem is the housing slipping on the base, you can try wedging a little piece of sandpaper under clamp. If the clamp has a thumbscrew, use a wrench on it to tighten it just a bit more than you could possibly do it with strong fingers. It was just this problem that inspired me to ditch my old Craftsman for a Porter Cable. Good luck!
Screw a starting pin ( see manual) into the base plate then cut a small block of wood that engages the face of the cutter and the starting pin. This locks the spindle and stops it moving. Use the supplied spanner and tap with a mallet. Tap the cutter to loosen it.
Dave and Graham.
it is threaded and I believe it might be left hand thread. this is for the chuck itself, I looked at the breakdown and that is all I can see, if you want before attempting you can go to Makitausa.com and download the parts schematic. Please if you need more assistance before voting let me know. Thank you
It appears that the retainer is removed from the outside, Go to Dewaltservicenet.com and under manuals type in your model number I used 890 and you can download a breakdown for this tool. Did you remove the motor from the base so you can see it more clearly, the retainer might be an E clip that slides off with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Home Depot or Lowes will have them. If you don't know the size, or don't have one like it, take a good look at the threaded hole and go down and get two or three screws that look close and try them, you will find it!
This is a common issue with these kits. Some guys put a little shred of paper in the threads as they screw it together.
Try to reach inside the base and grap the knurled ring with a pair of channel locks and you should be able to get sufficient grip on it to tighten it enough to keep it from spinning loose.
If it still works loose, you could put a little rubber cement or Spray adhesive on just a bit of the threads, let it dry, and then screw it together. It will be harder to undo, but should keep it from vibrating off.
Finally, if you have a lot of work to do with the template guides, try to make a point to check it occasionally. In this way, you are more likely to catch it before it comes loose enough to do any damage. I don't believe it could spin off all the way, but it can loosen to the extent that your work is damaged.
I hope this helps in some respect.