Question about Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator with Adjusta Cube Ice Maker
The control panel goes off and on and I can't reset it without unplugging the unit. When it is off and I unplug it it comes back on and seems to work ok for a while then continues to turn it'self off and seemingly at random. When off the cooling in freezer and refrigerator both stop and everything warms.
The problem you describe is caused by the hot gas pipe that runs around the cabinet, this is normal for it too get warm, the only reason it would be very hot is that for some reason the gases are not being cooled, probable cause is that the condenser is blocked with dust or fluff, depending on axact version some are located behind the plastic trim that runs below the doors and others are in the back behind the lower rear panel. Regards Advisor
Posted on Aug 31, 2007
I went ahead and signed up for Sears' service warranty since I knew I had to get someone to come out. IT costs $200/yr. They say it covers everything, but when the technician came out, he told me that it just covers $500 per visit. He said that a new motherboard and the labor alone was going to make it $498. Anyway, he had ordered a new motherboard. Apparently the motherboard wasn't working. It is located in the back bottom left side of the refrigerator behind the panel. There is a compartment on the lefthand side that slides out and houses the motherboard. He put that in and also had to fix the fan that is in the back of the freezer. That fan is the one that sends cool air up to the refrigerator part. When I had looked at the fan before the repair man came, it was not moving at all. So at least take a look at the fan in the freezer. Just take out the freezer drawers, and the fan is located in the top center of the freezer behind the compartment cover. Maybe that's the problem with your refrigerator, the fan. Hope that's all it is. Good luck!
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
SOURCE: Side by Side Kenmore Elite
Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
if this helps please vote me a fix ya
Posted on Jul 18, 2008
The freezer will stay cold because a small
amount of cold air will be forced through the frost but that will not
be enough to make it up to the refrigerator portion. You can defrost
the unit by removing the metal panel and allowing the frost to melt.
Careful use of a hairdryer can speed up this process. This will likely
be a temporary fix. The root cause of excessive frost can be caused by
a bad door seal or a defective defrost circuit.
First check that the door seal is good by closing the door on a dollar bill at several points around the door, both on the freezer and refidgerator door. If you can pull the bill out with no resistance, the door is not making a good seal. Inspect the seal and make sure there isn't anything stopping the door from closing such as food, or a shelf not pushed in all the way.
If the door seal is good, the defrost system is likely defective. The defrost system has three main parts, the defrost heater, thermostat, and timer. None of these parts are particularly expensive, or difficult to replace you feel comfortable with repairing it yourself. If you can troubleshoot this by manually starting the defrost cycle. Let me know if you would like this procedure.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
Number one when you can always provide model number and make...it helps
enormously in troubleshooting otherwise you get these long detailed
threads...from an anal tech like myself.
Cold is a relative term....how cold...use a thermometer...and determine if the freezer...is at least..10-20 degrees or colder if not it is not cold enough...and here are some generic answers for that problem....I will list at the bottom of this thread...if it is
A. You will need to determine if you are getting air flow into the refrigerator side compartment..there is usually a baffle...that controls...the amount of air-flow into the frig side...it can be adjusted...if not it could be broken or have come loose...it is rare...
B. Is something blocking the baffle...as in food ...groceries...
C. The thermostat could be out of adjustment...and or going bad...(how old is the frig)..
D. Some newer units have a dual fan system..(but rare)..if the frig side fan is out...this could be the problem...
There are several reasons this can be happening...
1. The seal on the door may have a tear or may not be seating properly...this allows excess warm air into the freezer compartment and in its effort to remove the same ...frost appears.
2. There is something call a thermistor (which senses temp and ice build up) that is cycled on and off as needed to remove excess frost accumulation and or ice buildup on the evaporator (freezer) coils...it is a heat strip which actually defrost the frost/ice. If this is not working frost will accumulate and eventually it will become Ice......now the remarkable thing about Ice accumulation is that you would think everything would remain cold or get colder ..however in this case the opposite occurs...it insulates the coils and thereby increasing the temperature...put a thermometer...one that is calibrated properly...(calibration can be set by placing a thermometer into a glass of ice water...the temp of a glass of ice water..after a few minutes setting will be exactly 32 degrees)..if the temperature of your refrigerator is gradually rising over the period of a week...you will need to call a tech or replace the thermistor and or trouble shoot other problems that may have occur such as..
3. The evaporator fan may be going out although they usually make a high pitched whining noise of a whirring noise before they go out...not always and if they are intermittently cycling off then frost would build up...do you always here a fan running when you open the freezer and hold the button in above the door..(fan switch)...if so that is good...fan is working...but it may be cycling off at times when no one is aware.
P.S. the odds of it being due to overfilling are slim...I have been in the industry for 35 years and that is what freezers do...which a lot of people don't realize is that freezers don't actually cool anything ..they just remove heat and when you remove all the heat all that is left is cold (like in space) and when heat is removed quickly frost can appear like when you blow your breath on a freezing cold window..then right your name....but I digress...any way..if there was an excess of heat due to a lot of new food in the freezer it would correct itself by one of the processes i mentioned above..and it would never result in Ice..you probably have one or more of the problems I mentioned...evaluate how long its been going on...
4. Thermostat could be out of adjustment..and or not functioning
properly..which would delay or inhibit a defrost cycle..from occurring..unfortunately almost all of these problems require a tech...or a good handyman.
This should lead you in the right direction...if you need help in finding a reputable service company in your area let us know..I hope this has been helpful..if so PLEASE rate me....thank you... .......The Fang
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
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I have the same problem with this refrigerator. It looks like Sears Parts Direct sells all the parts for this unit except for the printed circuit board and temperature control switches. I called my local repairman and set up an appointment. He called back to cancel his appointment because he was also unable to get the electronics. Were you able to fix your unit? What did you replace?
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