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Broken battery spring

2 problems:
1 the spring wire that makes contact with the negative end of the battery broke.
2. seems it eat batteries. Much quicker than it used to.
thanks for the help

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: battery contacts

The only way is to send it back to Garmin. They will not sell the part. I just folded a piece of aluminum foil and poked a hole in it and unscrewed the contact, placed the foil under the contact, screwed the contact back down and then folded the aluminum down so the battery end could contact it. .

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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1. Make sure your battery is fully charged with "CLEAN" and "TIGHT" connections and the instrument light fuse is not blown.
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1. Make sure your battery is fully charged with "CLEAN" and "TIGHT" connections and the instrument light fuse is not blown.
2. Inspect the bulb socket for corrosion and clean as necessary, a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and compressed air works the best.
3. Confirm your test light is working properly by connecting one end to the battery negative post and touching battery positive post with the sharp probe, the test light should illuminate.
4. With the ignition turned on confirm you have power to the bulb socket by connecting your test light to battery negative or ground and probe the center contact, the test light should illuminate if not you need to check the integrity of the switch or sending unit the light represents, if that is ok then you have a short in the wiring between the component and the light bulb, if all is ok proceed to the next step.
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7. If your bike has a lot of mileage the vibration can cause bulbs to become loose in the socket by wearing down the soldered contact thus loosing spring pressure from the tab and eventually stop making contact this can be fixed by replacing the bulb or putting a drop of solder on the worn out end to ensure contact.
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1. Make sure your battery is fully charged with "CLEAN" and "TIGHT" connections and the instrument light fuse is not blown.
2. Inspect the bulb socket for corrosion and clean as necessary, a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and compressed air works the best.
3. Confirm your test light is working properly by connecting one end to the battery negative post and touching battery positive post with the sharp probe, the test light should illuminate.
4. With the ignition turned on to confirm you have power to the bulb socket by connecting your test light to battery negative or ground and probe the center contact, the test light should illuminate if not you need to check the integrity of the switch or sending unit the light represents, if that is ok then you have a short in the wiring between the component and the light bulb, if all is ok proceed to the next step.
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6. Inspect the integrity of the spring loaded positive contact insulation tab by pushing against it with your test light to see if it goes down and springs back fully to it's operating position again contact cleaner and compressed air works best to restore proper function.
7. If your bike has a lot of mileage the vibration can cause bulbs to become loose in the socket by wearing down the soldered contact thus loosing spring pressure from the tab and eventually stop making contact this can be fixed by replacing the bulb or putting a drop of solder on the worn out end to ensure contact.
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You have not mentioned your camera model but there are two main types of battery in use:-

1.) Older cameras tended to need two or more AA batteries, whether re-chargeable or not.

The principle here is that the each end of the battery forms a separate electrical contact. The end with a small Button sticking out is 'positive' (+), the Flat end is 'negative' ( - ), and there are markings on the sides of the battery which show this.

There are usually also marks on the battery hatch of the camera, or nearby, with + and - , to show which way the battery goes in, but the marks are often hard to see.

In the camera there is a spring at one end of the slot for the AA battery, and the battery should be fitted so that the Flat ('negative') end of the battery is in contact with the spring.

To fit the battery, you put its Flat end in first, so it touches the spring and compresses it when you press on the battery. Doing this should make more room available so you can push the button end of the battery into place.

2.) Newer cameras tend to use proprietary NiMh batteries which are shaped differently for each model.

It is fairly easy to see how the battery fits because you can look into the camera to see exactly where the metal contacts are. Then you can line up the battery so its own contacts match those inside the camera.

Because the contacts are invariably off-centre there is only one way the battery will go in, but you need to gently hold the catch out of the way to get the battery to start going in.

I hope these comments will help!

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I am not acquainted with the 45CL-1, but as a general rule, if the contacts for one side of a battery is a spring and the other end a solid piece of metal, the negative (-) end of the cell should contact the spring and the post (+) end of the cell should go to the solid metal contact.

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