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Kenmore elite ranghood (series# 550) not working

I was replacing 1 of 2 bulbs, & was unaware that the old bulb was shattered while still in the hood, so when I tried to screw the new bulb in place, sparks flew, the other bulb & the fan stopped working. The only thing that still works is the 2 little green lights that comes on when you press the button to turn on the light or the fan.

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Unplug the unit and unscrew the bulbs. put 2 new in if they still dont work then you may have fried the control. there are usually no fuses between the control and light/fan. well i never saw a fuse between the 2.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I assume you mean just the bulbs:
  1. 1 Shut off the Camry's engine and set the parking brake for added safety. Also, make sure its headlights are switched off.
  2. 2 Open the hood using the primary and auxiliary hood release latches.
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Step 1 Shut the Corolla's engine off and engage the emergency brake for added safety. Also, make sure its headlights are switched off.
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  • Step 3 Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the clip from the top of the air cleaner duct and pull the duct out of the engine2_bing.gif compartment (only when changing the passenger-side headlight.)
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    Light doesn't work on Kenmore Model 55022 Range hood...


    If you're getting 120V at the lampholders, yet it's not lighting lamps that still work perfectly well in other fittings, two possibilitiesspring to mind.

    One is that the cap on the bulbs isn't quite compatible with the fitting. Assuming they're some variant of Edison Screw, make sure that the centre terminal in the lampholder is sticking out far enough to touch the terminal on the bulb. Also check whether the lampholder achieves it's outer connection just with a small tab, rather than with the whole of the threaded ring. If so, make sure that this is going to touch the appropriate part of the bulb.

    The other possibility is that you've got a high resistance connection somewhere - not enough of an open circuit to drop the 120 V when feeding the Megohm load presented by a meter, but more than enough to kill the supply when you have a lamp load. Only way to chase this is to use the meter on ohms range to bell out all the wiring between the lampholders and bits of the system which do work properly.

    A.

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    If you're comfortable with further electrical testing...let me know, and I can describe a detailed procedure to check the status of the neutral wire. Otherwise, you may need the assistance of someone familiar with electrical troubleshooting or appliance repair.

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