I have just bought a beko D533 free standing cooker and when wired in only the oven and one hob work but if you change the wiring over to the other small part I believe it's called a link three hobs and the grill work. Someone mentioned that it may have been wired incorrectly.
Please can you help
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Re: Beko D533 cooker only half working
Is the cooker a new one? I fit is then it does sound like an internal wiring problem, in which case you should contact the supplier. Make sure it is wired correctly from your circuit breaker first, There should be a diagram showing the connections.
Hope this helps.
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This tutorial will show you how to check your Beko element and how to replace your Beko cooker element. Here are the 3 main faults to look for in your oven or cooker that is not heating
1.Your Beko oven will not work until the clock/timer has been re-set after replacing an oven element or tripping the electrical supply. Consult your Beko manual.
2.If your Oven is not getting hot or heating up it could be a faulty element, if the fan in the oven is running and the thermostat light is on, this will lead us to believe that the element has gone faulty. With grills the thermostat light should come on there should be heat, if not then this could be the grill element or the thermostat.
3.When you turn the oven on, the household electrical supply trips on the Rcd (this is the earth trip in the fuse board sometimes called the breaker tripping) your fan oven element has gone to earth and needs replacing. If this helped you why not get me a beer?
hi chances are that the internal thermal cutout fuse has gone this fuse is situated on the right hand side of the cooker when you have taken the back plate off about half way down it has two wires attached to it and is screwed with a self tap on the right hand corner of the body of the cooker near the middle of the cooker. You can buy this part and have it delivered for about £6 so is a very cheap fix.
remove rear panels (3; 1 white, 2 galvanised).
look under rear folded edge of hob. remove 2 screws in corners. dont lose 2 top hat rubber washers. from rear of cooker, lift hob slightly and push forward 1/2". lift hob off. dont over tighten new thermocouple union on back of valve (note how tight old one was)
you probabbly have some burnt out elements or switches gone bad use a meter and check for current coming to your element when you have it on if no current its a switch if there is current then its an element problem
It sounds like the wiring has broken down inside the cooker at the terminal block or a leg of power is missing if the cooker is supplied by three phase electricity. Then there may be a problem in your service panel. Is it a 3 segment circut breaker or 3 fuses in the panel?