Recharge batteries do not work batteries tested on other appliances ok.
this produce cost about a £110 so should get results.
going away abroad with out a radio is not very nice .
trust you will help me
Do you mean you cannot use rechargeable batteries in this device ?
If you look at those supplied with the radio, you will see that the insulating sleeve on the battery itself does not fully enclose the battery at the negative end. Inside the radio's battery compartment you can see a metallic strip next to one of the spring terminals. This is no coincidence - if you wish to use your own rechargeable NiMh batteries you should be able just to take a sharp knife to the sleeve on your preferred battery and trim it back slightly. When the metal strip in the radio can touch your battery, it should work just fine (based on my experience).
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It depends on the voltage the disc player was designed to work with and there should be an identification label somewhere on the outside stating the voltage and the current it requires.
110/120 volt AC supplies used to be common around the world as did local direct current supplies but 220/240 volt AC supplies are gradually becoming the international standard.
lots of appliances used to be truly universal but as local direct current supplies are now virtually extinct, modern appliances are either dual voltage or single voltage.
Many small and portable appliances have been produced to work on either voltage - mostly selectable by a barely exposed switch and sometimes requiring adjustment to be made by removing a cover plate. Modern electronics has sometimes provided an automatic adjustment.
Most larger appliances are a single voltage type designed to work where they are sold. The information you require is contained in the instruction manual for the appliance and on the identification plate.
If your disc player is suitable for only a 110/120 volt AC supply you will need a small auto-transformer to make our 220/240 volt AC supply suitable for use.
If your disc player will operate on our voltage, all you will need to do is cut off the 2-pin plug and fit a British 3-pin plug and fit a suitable (3 amp) fuse.
The last time I enquired the cost of recharging a domestic fridge cost about the same as for a vehicle air-con. The main difficulty is legislation (in Europe) and the falling price of new appliances has meant engineers who have the ability and equipment to recharge domestic fridge freezers are quite scarce.
If an engineer has to attend rather than have the appliance brought to him, the additional call-out charge generally means the alternative of a new replacement becomes quite attractive.
The main complaint against compact digital cameras used to be battery life. This was in the days when a 4 or 6MP would have been top-of-the-range.
The life of standard zinc-carbon batteries could be measured in minutes rather than hours and decent alkaline batteries might last the duration of a wedding but might not.
Manufacturers rushed to produce better batteries to meet the booming new market and the camera manufacturers began fitting rechargeable lithium batteries as standard in basic and lower cost cameras and with further developments in technology batteries now last much longer.
Leaving the batteries fitted into the camera when it wasn't being used didn't help much as the circuitry had to be kept alive to retain the settings.
Your camera might have a fault causing the batteries to discharge quickly but if it is working ok, probably not. If you have long experience with your camera and it has suddenly started costing lots of batteries it might be a good idea to update it. It has certainly been many years since Kodak cameras had the reputation for quality...
Meanwhile I suggest you use only high-capacity lithium batteries and remove them when the camera is not going to be used for a while.
Well it sounds to me like your alternator is bad, but the only way to know what is going on for sure is to take your vehicle to your local shop and have them preform a load test on your charging system. Most of the time the mechanic will do this for little or no charge because it only takes a few minutes. After this test is done they will be able to tell you for sure what is going on with no guessing. I hope this helps you out.
The external power adapter for your device is for [6VDC - 1 Ampere]. You can use any adapter with this capacity to charge the battery inside the your Philips Da1000. Brand is not matter, but the voltage and current is. Just check the DC socket polarity. It is the main thing that ahs to be checked. Some sets will have outer (+ve), and some others have (Outer (--ve). This will be marked at the DC in terminal of your radio. It is best to be the set in hand, when you go to buy a new one. This adapter can be bought from most of the electronic spare parts selling shops at your town. Philips has designated as [6V direct current, positive pole to current pin] as pin confuguration for the AC adapter. If so outer ring connection will be (--ve). Anyway, make sure about it before buying a new one. OK.
Rechargeable batteries (usually Ni-Cd) have a finite life and after a certain number of recharge cycles (usually 500 times under optimum conditions) will loose their capacity to retain a charge as one or more cells will become 'worn'. Unless your appliance has a 'smart' charger circuit, leaving the appliance always plug-in will greatly reduced the batteries pack life due to overheating/overcgarging. Unless you can test and replace as required the individual batteries, it may not be a cost effective solution to replace the batteries. Hope it helps.
if the battery is ok why do you need to jump anyway? most likely its not ok, the alternator do not provide enough power at idle to supply the engine the amount of power needed to keep it running,below 1200rpm you actually use the battery, in the range of 1400 to 2000rpm the alternator will produce a surplus enough to recharge the battery, but if the battery is old it does not recharge enough to start your truck
Well, as a rule for electronics: The United States and Canada use
110-volt electricity. Most countries outside North America use 220-volt
electricity. Unless your appliance is dual voltage, you need to use a
"converter" or a "transformer" to change the 220-volt electricity into
110-volt electricity in order to use a 110-volt appliance. If your
appliance is dual voltage, you can switch it to work on 220-volts,
without a transformer or converter.
Desktop units have a selector switch for 110 / 220 volts., which is
done away with in the case of laptop one's which sense the input
voltage and regulate accordingly.
I think your main concern is just that you have an adapter for the plug to go into the wall outlet.