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Those devices use a process call IONIZATION to clean the air. What this does is make high voltage that jumps out into the air and attaches to particles in the air. Those particles are now attracted to anything with an opposite charge. In some machines there is a plate that has the opposite charge and a fan that pulls the air into the machine. When particles that are charged come into the machine, they are drawn to that plate and stick. The plate gets dirty pretty fast and has to be cleaned. The problem comes when the ionizer begins to spark. This creates ozone and ozone is harmful to people and animals, rubber and many other things. I looked up the name of the machine that you listed and the closest I can find is a really old reference to a radio shack device. the Environizer™ (630-0612/630-0613) This device was made just after regulation by the federal government that says 50 parts per billion is the limit so that device SHOULD be ok. However it has to be maintained and cared for. There is a great article here:http://www.allergyclean.com/problems-with-ozone-generators-and-ionizers-that-produce-ozone/
Just keep in mind the difference between ozone generators and air ionizers, they are not the same thing. If you need more info let me know.
Did you clean the plate contacts with alcohol? How old is the plate? Is the glue that holds the grid in place turning brown? If it is, it may need to be replaced. Call (336) 499-2505 and ask for free email supplemental cleaning instructions before you do anything else. The instructions may help you solve the problem.
Alpine purifiers need periodic cleaning, as dust and dirt from air moving through the unit is electrostatically deposited on internal components; enough build-up can cause short-circuits and diminished peformance. The ozone-discharge plates need to be cleaned monthly, and the inside wiped down at that time. The lint trapscreen on the back also needs to be cleaned (I use hot water in my kitchen sink with the spray-nozzle). I recommend an old toothbrush dipped in household ammonia for scrubbing the plates, and an old sock dampened with ammonia for wiping the inside spaces. The ammonia fumes can be unpleasant, so if you can do this outside or in garage, do so. Also, rinse the plates thoroughly to remove any ammonia residue. Just make sure the discharge plates are COMPLETELY BONE-DRY before
putting them back in, otherwise, you risk shorts, and potential damage
to the plate. Use the toothbrush without the ammonia (preferably dry) to dust-off the sensor in back that triggers the "service required" light. Iif it's like the ones I've worked-on, it should be connected to another light inside, but I recommend checking your owners manual to help identify the location and description of the sensor.
About once a year, a thorough cleaning (using a brush to get the accumulated gunk out of the nooks and crannies) is recommended). This involves disconnecting the fan leads and (if so-equipped) the needle-point ionier after removing the four screws through the bottome holding the chassis in-place. If you're not comfortable working with wiring and spade-terminals, you may want to use a keyboard vaccuum brush (long-necked tube with a brush on the end available in office-supply stores and the like) to reach in instead.
Easy. You need new plates in the machine. They cost about $15 a piece. Google 'ozone plates for XL-15' & sources will come up on where to buy them. Remember to clean the plates every 30-45 days w/ 50-50 solution of ammonia & water & a tooth brush on these plates. Dry thoroughly w/ hair dryer before putting back in machine.
You realize this is a really old machine!! The little fan is for ozone level detection, not production.
To see if the machine still will produce ozone
1) Set the switch to manual rather than auto and always run it on manual.
2) Remove the back of the machine and remove the 4" white plates. Check them for cracks, breaks in the mesh, loose mucilage, discoloration, burned spots, excessive grease or nicotine, or particulates such as dust, dog hair, or lint. Clean the plates using a solution of 1 part plain AMMONIA to 1 part warm water. Soak 5 minutes, brush with a soft brush, rinse well, and blow dry. DO NOT use any kind of cloth to dry the plate. Avoid putting fingers on the mesh.
3) If the plates are damaged in any way, call Vollara (new name for EcoQuest) and order replacements. 1-800-989-2299. Use #16618 as the dealer referral number if you are no longer in touch with the registered distributor who sold you the machine.
4) Insert the plates, making sure the metal contact fingers press on them firmly.
5) If none of the above works, most likely the power to those contact fingers is no longer strong enough to arc through the plates.
6) Call customer service, and they'll explain your options.
The Classic XL-15 should have 2 individual indicator lights. The 'red' light is the ionizer indicator, and the 'green' light is the ozone level indicator. Both lights should be illuminated, if the unit is operating properly. The red light should be pulsing, and the green light should be dimly lit, and brightened as the output knob is turned up - indicating a higher ozone production. If the green light is not lit, you likely won't smell the ozone. The first thing you should try, is cleaning the filter and glass ozone plate. Unplug the unit and remove the rear air filter. Clean the filter with clean water and allow to COMPLETELY air dry. Removed the glass plate by depressing the lever behind the glass plate, and gently pulling it out. Clean the glass with a half water, half ammonia (or distilled white vinegar, if ammonia not available) and an old toothbrush to clean between the mesh. Dry plate with a hair dryer and re-place plate into unit. Replace dried air filter, making sure the little tab on the bottom is secured into the interlock. Power the unit on and you should see the indicator lights and smell the fresh ozone!
Several possiblities here. Not static sound means the plasma discharge plates aren't energized.
1) Missing, cracked or defective discharge plate (you say you cleaned the filter - did you mean the lint screen in back, or the glass or white ceramic plate inside)? No plate, no ozone (O3) production.
2) Bad connection in the high voltage leads*.
3) Bad electrical components*.
*I'm not an electrician, and recommend that only qualified personnel troubleshoot high voltage electronic, both for safety, and for preventing further damage to circuitry. Visible problems, such as corroded or broken terminals that can be swapped when it's de-energized (unplugged) is one thing; having to dig deeper into the electronics is something that I expect to rapidly end up costing more than it's worth.
Ionizers do cause a bad odor to happen. I work in the copier business and do work around machines that can cause an ozone to happen when there are ran. Copiers like ionizers can cause an ozone to happen because the air particles are being electrically charged. The smell isn't good to be breathing in as well.
The Consumer Products Safety Commission is going to be making a decision about the health effects on ionizers by the end of the year. Their decision can effect selling ionizers all together.
This industry should have been regulated years ago and after what happened to Sharper Image this year due to their arrogance it isn't doing the industry any favors. They went out of business because of Consumer Reports findings and tried to sue them for it.
If you really want the air in your house cleaned, the best way to do it is using a hepa filter.
Moist air reduces the efficiency of ozone production for this unit. I am not sure what the water thing is about.
Did you try cleaning the glass plate or ceramic plate ozone producing unit with soap free ammonia? Also did you try using a pencil eraser on the contact points on the glass plate? I think the ammonia cleaning and contact points on the glass plate should be your first option. Check your maintenance on the units manual.
Try the manufacturers website for their trouble shooting guide...walks you through most problems and how to fix them.