Question about Frigidaire FAC124 wall/Window Air Conditioner

3 Answers

My Frigidaire AC/heater window unit problem is no heat. Fan works

I removed heater checked power on heat mode connections to heater which was around 320 ac. Seems too high. Is that the problem if not how can I check heater while off unit. thanks

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  • 3 more comments 
  • srcr1983 Dec 08, 2008

    I need to ask more questions for my problem. I did not recieve sufficient help for premium help tech. thanks.

  • srcr1983 Dec 08, 2008

    Thanks. The frigidaire model # is FAZ08HR1A. The heater has 2 swithches attached on top. The element has about 11 ohms. The 2 switches have 0 ohms. The main power is 110vac, the lines to the 2 switches has high VAC. Are those switches the thermal cut-off and the thermostatic switch you mentioned. Sorry for not furnishing model #. Thanks again.

  • srcr1983 Dec 08, 2008

    found connection to relay loose and black at connection. Heater works after connecting back up. thanks a lot. Good work

  • srcr1983 Dec 10, 2008

    Hello, I installed unit the heat isn't very hot. Its warm at best. What could cause heat to not be at its best? Could it be the heater itself? What can I check to diagnose? Thanks

  • srcr1983 Dec 10, 2008

    Thanis I'll try it.

×

3 Answers

There is probably something going on with the heating part of the unit, and so I would probably look at that part of the appliance if you know where to look. If you aren't sure where to repair it at, I would get a repairman to come and look at your air conditioner. It can be very difficult to fix an appliance such as this if you aren't sure what to look for! http://www.honestairinc.com/ac-repair-replacement

Posted on Oct 27, 2014

First of all, do you get cool air when it's switched to cool? We want to make sure that the freon in the lines is still good and that you don't have a broken line somewhere. If you don't have heat, it could be a number of things. My guess would be that you have a blown fuse, or a broken circuit along the way. I would put up a voltmeter to some of the inner parts of the board and check it that way.
http://www.virginiamechanical.com

Posted on Oct 03, 2014

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  • Master
  • 6,966 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, pls check the continuity of the heater element itself. Additionally, almost always, heaters have a thermal cut-off in series with the supply line. This is different but in addition to the thermostatic switch that regulates the switching off temperature. Both the thermal cut-off and the thermostatic switch could also be checked with a continuity tester. Normally, both should read 0 ohms. Of course all continuity/resistance readings should be performed with the unit unplug.

The "320 ac" reading is unrealistic, perhaps you can try reading from the mains/outlet and compare.

Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa. Happy Holidays.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 08, 2008

    Appreciate the postback/comment. Perhaps if you could post the specific model number, then a more detailed approach could be forwarded.

    Cheers.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 08, 2008

    Your posted readings indicate that those components are good. Incidentally, the two switches are termed Temperature Limiter and Thermal Link. Both serve the same purpose, go off if the heater exceeds a pre-set temperature.

    On both the Temperature Limiter and Thermal Link, one of their terminals/ends goes to a relay that is activated by the controller board. If the heater is not heating up, it is either the relay is defective or the controller board is not switching the relay ON. Another possibility would be loose wires/pins on the connector(s).

    Incidentally, I understand that there is a TEST/RESET button on the plug itself. Of course it would help to double check that the breakers are good and set.

    To further assist you in the diagnosis, the wiring diagram, installation instructions and the owner's guide all may be found here. Of particular interest would be the wiring diagram which you can reference tracing the supply line.


  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 08, 2008

    Glad to be of assistance and appreciate the rating too.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Dec 10, 2008

    Hi again,

    Appreciate the update.

    If you can measure 110VAC after the relay and likewise on the terminals of the heater, then yes the heater is not drawing enough current to produce sufficient heat. If on the other hand, the mains will read 100 but wold be less after the relay of on the heater's terminals, then something in between is dropping the voltage. One possibility is the internal contact pins of the relay.


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I was drying my clothes and it stopped working. The lights in the ring that choose what kind of a load you want...well the first three are blinking. The second two are not. It will not let me choose a load or drying time, and if I press start, the thing inside goes around once and then stops. I looked in the filter basket and there's nothing in there and I wiped the sheet off.
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1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

2-Canister for the heater element.

3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

please comment on these solution by saying how helpful.mean vote.

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#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
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#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
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- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
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