THIS THING WAS WORKING BUT THEN IT SPARKED AND TRIPPED THE BRAKER NOW WONT GO ON NOW A WIRE SORTED OUT ON THE COOPER LOOKING WIRE INSIDE OF THE HEATER ANY IDEAS???? PLEASE AND IF SO WHERE WOULD I FIND THE PARTS??
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... a Dayton Model 2YU40 electric heater Need manual for Dayton. ... looking for a replacement fan and fan motor for a Dayton model 2E454B electric wall heater.
Dayton rheostat fan motor Heaters Questions & Answers ...
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Dayton heaters rheostat fan motor related questions and answers. ... UP BUT FAN WONT KICK ON Could be one of several problems dependant on the model you have.... The motors are noisy in 2 Dayton 2e440 heaters. I ... I'm looking for a replacement fan and fan motor for a Dayton model 2E454B electric wall heater.
W. W. GraingerShop DAYTON Electric Wall Heater, Recessed or Surface, Voltage 208/240, Watts ...Item # 3UG56; Mfr. Model # 3UG56; UNSPSC # 40101814; Catalog Page # 4277; Shipping Weight 20.65 lbs. ... Additional features include a built-in thermal cutout andfan delay switch for added safety ... Need Help Finding Repair Parts?
You may have a bad heating element. But first make sure you have power to the gfci. (check the braker) You can test this by disconnecting the heater leads and see if it will reset. If it still trips try disconnecting your equipment one at a time, ie. blower, ozone, circ pump, booster pumps. If nothing solves the gfci issue you need to replace the gfci. All of this is assuming you have a blank gfci receptical monted to your spa pack.
If your talking about the 50 amp gfci at the braker box try pushing the braker all the way to the off position then back to the on possition. If it trips right away do the above.
The 3E133 (or similar) Infra-Red Heater with correct voltage to the circuit board should produce a spark at the spark ignitor rod within a few seconds of having power applied. If it doesn't, one of the following could be the problem: (1. circuit board (ignition controller) is bad. (2. The gap between the spark ignitor rod and the middle rod (ground) is incorrect. It should be between 1/8" & 3/16". (3. There is not a good ground. This could be due to rust or a loose connection at any point between the equipment ground and the spark ignitor rod, including the ignitor mounting screws. (4. The spark ignitor rod or its orange wire is grounded, such as touching metal and thus "short circuiting" rather than allowing the spark ignitor rod to be 1/8" from "ground". That's all I can think of that would cause NOTHING to happen.
OHH I bet this is the same question I just posted to. So it is a forced air kerosene. The usual is like I said a blocked combustion air hole. It could also be something shorting out the spark ignition to ground when replaces inspect the wires and look for a week or loose ground in this case. Sorry about the confusion.
A Bad ignition proving circuit or something like (what we call here dirt dobbers) hornets nest could be letting the flame hit it and not allowing full flow through the heater. Mice are also notorious for making problems like wires chewed and nests in the wrong place. Given where it may have been stored.
How many amps is your service? And what gauge wire did you use for the heater? If your service is only 40amps that is your problem. You don't have enough amps for the heater and the rest of your house, you will have to upgrade your service.