I just purchased a set-up that includes a BP-25 and 4B-ST power amp. I am not able to get any sound from the right channel and after doing some isolation tests, I am pretty sure it is the output on the pre-amp that is at fault.
One thing I noticed, is if I turn the balance completely to the right so I hear nothing, and then start cranking up the volume, when I get to a reasonable high volume, the right channel suddenly activates (at the right volume) but when I turn it back down, I lose the channel again.
Has anyone experience this problem before and/or can anyone suggest a solution? The source is a Linn Ikemi CD Player and I am positive both speakers are working fine.
Feed the amp with the left channel preamp to the right channel input on amp and check output.
If you get output from amp then pre amp nedds to be checked out if still no output then amp is suspect.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
View videos on YouTube regarding "mixer setup". Find the parts of setting up of "effects". Don't worry that you have a different mixer, the principles are all the same for analog mixers. Steps are this: Set the EFX send level for EACH of the input channels (knob above each channel gain) for the proportion you want for each channel. Check that the level you are sending does NOT cause the effect clip light to light very much. Set the effect you want, delay, echo, etc. with the selector knob. Advance the output sent to the power amp with the two knobs in the upper right of the panel. Adjust the "time" knob for the delay or effect depth you want. Then go over the same settings in the same order until you get the sound you want.
You would want to bridge 2 of the left channels and 2 of the right channels, essentially combining the power output of the amp.
This article should help you out: http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/car-amplifiers/how-to-bridge-an-amplifier.html
Essentially you will just be using 2 channels (left, right) instead of 4 (front left, front right, rear left, rear right) essentially combining the power of those outputs. You'll want to check the amp to see if it tells you which of the outputs should be used for the "bridged" method.
There are many things, including hardware failure to cause this.
Make sure that the PFL buttons are ALL up. The LED indicators on the right are shared with solo channel and main output.
REMEMBER that the MAIN 1/4 inch jacks are TRS balanced and plugging a mono cable into these OR st the other end plugging into a MONO will short out the balanced line drivers. Since this also goes to the power amp, that can ground out the signal to the amps. All the other 1/4 inch jacks are pseudo balanced and mono plugs will not cause a problem other than possible hum or noise levels.
Do you get anything out of the PHONES jack?
Note that the standby switch must be UP in the upper right corner... it kills the first 12 channels. ALso with two speakers make sure the MAIN slide switch is in the MAIN A MAIN B upper position.
Start with all your PAN controls at 12 o'clock.
I have repaired two of these units and a PMP3000. Great caution: NEVER pull or insert speaker cables while unit is on. Great damage can be done. IF the fuse blows do NOT replace it!!! Get serviced immediately as replacing the fuse will likely do more damage. The worst damaged one required replacing around a dozen transistors and other components.
The power amps in these have a habit of arcing out... NEVER store in a high humidity area!!!
Try a set of stereo headphones plugged into the L and R MAIN out 1/4 inch jack... If you have audio there your power amps have failed or the +/- 85 volt supply has smoked.
I am assuming you are using the standard sonamp 260 not a 260x3 and that when you say you are getting sound on only 1 pair that means only on 1 side (left or right channel only?)
Are using a speaker selector box? you must to regulate the resistance (ohms)
if so first unhook all but on pair of speakers and see if both channels are working.
if they do your problem is in the speaker selector not the amp if no then check to see what the amp level is set to. These are the two small holes on the front right of amp make sure they are set about equal at around half way up.
If that doesn't work flip the RCA cables coming to the amp perhaps you have a bad cable if that doesn't work make sure your receiver (source) is outputing a stereo signal to begin with.
lastly 8 sets of speakers off 1 amp? that's pushing it.even with a high quality Niles or speakercraft selector that controls the resistance going to an amp I wouldn't go past 5 sets.
The right way to do it would be to use 260x3 or a sonance or speakercraft 12 channel amp.
The problem could be in the output from your receiver to the amp or in the amp itself.
First check to see if the amp powers up. If it doesn't, check the main power fuse (usually located under the hood near the battery). Also check the power and ground connections on both ends.
If the main fuse checks OK, check both onboard fuses. There's 2 35A fuses on the far right.
If the amp powers up OK and the onboard fuses are not defective, it's possibly the output from your receiver or line output converter. Replace the RCA cables with a known good pair. If there's still no sound, I'd suspect that the amp itself is defective.
You should be able to online to the manufacturer of your products and download manuals. However, I will try to help.
Connect the sound output cables from your DVD player including, left/right(white/red) as well as the Coax output/input if your DVD and your Carver each have this feature for enhanced sound on certain DVDs, and connect to the matching DVD inputs on your Carver.
Then, connect your DVD video output either by use of your RGB(RED/GREEN/BLUE cables or an S Video cable to your the matching video inputs on your t.v.
On the back of your Carver, you will find outputs for left and right speakers, connect to the left and right speakers with proper wire. Make sure that the 2 conductor wire is connected with the same side(polarity) on all speakers for the best sound quality.
You will also find rear channel left and right outputs on your amp, connect those to your rear right and left speakers.
Connect the center channel speaker to the center channel speaker output on your amp.
If your Amp has a sub-woofer output and you have a subwoofer, make the connections on that as well.
Test all of the speakers with a feature that many amps have on the menu using your remote, simply called test. if all speakers are connected correctly you will be able to hear each one as they are individually tested by the amp. Hope this helps out.
When using component speakers, it is normal to connect the head unit or amp outputs directly to the woofers and use a "high-pass" filter to the tweeters. Most component speakers sold as a set will include the correct filter along with wiring diagrams. The12volt.com web site shows examples of passive crossovers here.
Amps usually include built-in filters and a means of setting crossover frequencies according to the speakers attached. If the amp is connected to full-range speakers, it is set to "Full" or "BP". When used to drive subwoofer(s) only, the setting is most often "low-pass".
Most stock radios and aftermarket head units are relatively low power and just do not produce enough power output to drive subwoofers adequately. It takes more watts to move the larger cones and that usually means a separate amplifier.