Question about Hitachi 61SWX12B 61" Rear Projection Television
Mark, there are no real user replaceable parts inside this projection set. All the parts are soldered into place, so if you have solid state repair experience, you may be able to do this repair yourself. there are no snap in parts here. i would say to you, play it safe and call in a tech to assist you in this repair, as there is no quick fix, or any parts you can replace, not without tearing into the main chassis assembly. Good Luck Please do not forget to rate this thread.
Posted on Dec 10, 2006
I'm trying to fix the issue on my 43FDX20B. So far, I'm able to move the lines up and down, but can't get the left/right motion to fix it. The attached link has the dynamic mode instructions, so you can correct this issue yourself.
The only thing I didn't have was the screen overlay jig the manual talks about. I decided to create one myself and use the screen as a beginning template. I went to our local hardware store and picked up some home window weather covering. The roll cost about $15, is a clear strong plastic and the template was very easy to create. I used a straight edge after I put dots on the plastic and measured the lines for being square and equal after I took it off my tv. Good thing is that if you don't like what you make the first time, you have a 25' roll to use to try again (ha).
Posted on Mar 02, 2008
Your TV has a convergence problem. Here are some of the most common symptoms.
Screen looks 3D
One or more colors can't be adjusted when using the convergence menu.
Screen is bowed in or warped.
Here is a quick test....
Using your original remote go-to the tv settings then goto the convergence or magic focus section.
Try to adjust the convergence.
You should be able to move them up, down, left, and right.
If you can't move them in all directions your convergence chips are bad and should be replaced. This is a common problem.
Its a fairly easy fix on the Hitachi sets.
You can get a repair kit that includes all the parts from www.TvRepairKits.com. The kit includes a photo instruction guide, original Sanyo STK chips, convergence resistors, etc.
Everything you need to fix it yourself.
Posted on Jan 29, 2009
I bet you have a open resistor for the blue sub yoke. Typically it would be a 2.2 omh or a 1.5 ohm. Some times it is hard to tell buy looking at them. It you have a Ohm Meter, unplug the set, pull the sub yoke plugs from there connectors.(They are the plugs right behind the heat-sinks) . If you know the resister color code it will be a must to determin if any are open or increased in value. If you see a resister that has two red bands and two gold bands, it it a 2.2 ohm. A resister with a brown band, green band, and two gold bands is a 1.5 ohm. On some occasions, you will see a brown band, a white band and two gold bands, this is a 1.8 ohm. This circuit does not give much leeway for subing with wrong values and it even could cause premature failure if the IC's again. One last thing, double check that all the pins made it through the board when mounting and are not touching each other top side of board. As far as the one side of the picture pulling in , I think it is all related. I have seen defective STK392-150's new out of the bag.
Well thats all I can tell you at this point.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
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