I have established that on command to turn on the hot water selonoid is not being supplied by the microcontroller ( no high or low) The machine has been this way since new What do you think could it be the eeprom yours sincerely oliver
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If you have the Hot Water open at the outlet and you know for certain water flows from the source to the washer; then a Valve is not opening into the washer. The valve is controlled by the washers circuit board. This solenoid is electrically activated upon command, and if that instruction gets to the valve it should open and close. Failure could be either the Valve or the Command Center.
The FH code indicates a fill failure. The problem can be with the fill valves, flow meter or the pressure switch. This error occurs if the control doesn't see the flow meter turning. This usually a fault of the flow meter but be sure both the hot and cold water valves are working. Try a hot water wash cycle and confirm that hot water is coming into the washer. Check both valves and if they are working the problem is most likely the flow meter.
Also the FH error means it's either you have a drain problem if there is water in it or if if there is now water in it, make sure that both water inlets are turned all the way up. check to make sure that you don't have any water leaks anywhere visible.
Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
You have tried both a Hot fill and a Cold fill and still no water flow? You could try going into Service Mode and turn on the water inlet valves with console commands. See page 16 of the Service Manual and see if you can turn the water inlet valves one at a time and get water to flow into the machine.Getting into Service Mode is easy to do
The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference. If still no water flow it would be time to check 120VAC on the water valve solenoids when you command them on in Service Mode.If no 120VAC present then we might have a Stuck open High level pressure switch which would disconnect 120VAC to the Control Board relays that operate to switch 120VAC to the Hot/Cold solenoid valves. How do you feel about troubleshooting?Do you have a DVM?I have the schematic in PDF format if you need.Let me know if you want to DIY the fix......Rich
The short answer is yes there is a magnetic coil which activates the water inlet valve. It sounds like the plunger part of the valve is sticking, or debris is stuck inside preventing the valve from "seating" properly.
These component's aren't really built to be serviced, they are component's which get replaced upon failure. First what you need to do now is determine which valve assembly you need, ( if you haven`t already ) turn off one supply at a time and by process of elimination you'll know which one is allowing the water in. Either the "cold" dual magnet valve # 422244 ( approx. $20 - $30 ) or the "hot" single valve # 422245 ( $10 - $15 ) both available @ searspartsdirect.com.
Hope that answer's your question. Let me know if you require further assistance and I'll try to accommodate.
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This is common problem with high pressure water supply and solenoid "turn off" water valves. Visit plumbing shop and buy a small anti-hammer device and fit to water pipe near to washing machine tap. You may also need to buy a “T” piece to enable you to fit this. Looks like a small six inch piece of pipe with only one open end. This device contains a clever spring valve and an sealed in air pocket to cushion the quick stop and start of the water flow.
Worked fine for me. Total cost about $30.00
Why has nobody mentioned the fact that if you “draw off” hot water
using a tap beside the washing machine you can get “instant” hot water
to your hot-fill. I have been doing this for years – now that all my
hot water is heated by a crabon-neutral energy source (either wood or
solar) I feel it is even more energy efficient.
As for water consumption, my house has a secondary return pipe on the
hot water circuit with a temperature sensor fitted to the pump so that
it only switches on when you turn a hot water tap on – you than turn
the tap off, wait 5-10 minutes while the water circulates, then turn it
on again, by which time the hot water only has ashort distance to
travel and you don’t waster much down the drain.
However, I have been interested to read about the pros of cold fill
only, especially the arguments about such a small volume of water being
used anyway and the possibly improved wash performance? Also, I was
dismayed to read that washing machines with hot and cold fill don’t use
the hot wate very efficiently.
So would I be better off going for a hot and cold machine while they’re
still available or going for a high-efficiency cold fill only machine?
I am still minded to get an LG with hot and cold fill… comments please?
Firstly, there should be only one hose, always connected to the cold supply.
The unit will heat the water to the setting you choose for the wash (40 - 60 - etc)
Secondly, if the unit is leaking water, try turning down the cold pressure, this will slow the supply pressure to the unit and prevent spray out from the detergent drawer.
Your supply tap should have an isloting tap on it, adjust this until it sullpies water at an acceptable rate.
Do this by feeding the hose into a bucket/basin and tweak it until it pours out - not sprays out.
This should alleviate any leaks around the machine.