- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. On the burner your having problems with the ignition control switch located in front of the gas control vale on the stem has failed. These are cheesy little switches that are thin ceramic with nothing but 2 strips of copper inside them. One piece is fixed and the other piece is movable by the ceramic switch cam. If the movable copper arm or fixed copper strip gets bent the ignition will not shut off. Also if the ceramic cam of the switch fractures it will cause the switch to stay actuated. The gas valve has to be disconnected and removed to change the switch on most units. The wires in the switch have to be unlocked by inserting a jewelers screwdriver into the holes in the switch body to release the wires. These switches are common to most every gas cook top models no matter the brand. Without your model number I can not provide you with the manufacturers replacement part number. Change the burner ignition switch on the front of the gas valve for the burner with the problem and it will work fine.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. On your cook-top the gas igniters are cycled on and off by a ceramic and copper switch on the front of each of the gas valves. Some of them are in wired Series ...i.e any burner on will cycle all igniters on the cook top and some of them are in Parallel where individual burners are controlled by each gas burner control knob. Inside these tiny ceramic switches there is a flat thin strip of copper that as the gas valve is rotated a cam of the switch actuates pushes the copper strip against the fixed contact. Those little strips over time either break or get bent and stay against the fixed contact. Hence you have and igniter on when the burner control is off. The only fix is to find out which little ceramic switch on the front of the gas valve is stuck. You do it with an Ohm meter POWER off. They all should read open with the burner controls off. The one that reads continuity across the 2 wires is the bad switch.
there is a problem with either the elements or the controls,i doubt it is the elements as its unlikely that all of them are faulty at once.the control knobs or control panel is more likely the problem.
1) turn off power at the breaker.
2) remove hold down screws
3) pop up cooktop out of counter top
4) remove knobs and downdraft grille
5) remove ceramic top (screws around outside and also in side grille opening)
6) unplug burners replace with new burner
I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat.The surface of the board was charred beyond repair. To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs.If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics.If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter. Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners. To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides.Here are the instructions from the user manual: Disassembly Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs. In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports. Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob. Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals. To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST
Remove hotplate and oven control knobs. Under the 2nd and 5th knobs is an extra screw which holds on the front cover. Unscrew these and free the cover then access is gained to the screws (2 on each edge) which removes the plate to which the regulators are fixed.Remove the faulty regulator by unscrewing it from the plate,(2 screws) It is an easy job then to install the new part taking care to put the correct wires on the correct terminals. Reassemble, job done!
Sounds like the switch electric sending unit needs to be Ither cleaned and dry good or replced. It's not hard at all, They are located under the knob switches, you will have to remove the knobs and the top cover, they look like a small square box wit a hole in the middle with two wires on the sides, just unplug the wires and lift the box off the switch rod. cleane them and dry them good and put them back.......that should do it.....Good Luck
Tupper LAke NY
1. Turn off the power at the breaker box. 2. lift off the air grill. 3. remove the two screws at the front of the control switch panel (escutcheon).. 4. slide the control panel forward until it disengages, then lift up to expose the switch assembly and wiring.