Generator strikes up and runs ok. There is a very minimal movement when test reading on output. Alternator stator windings get very hot but do not smoke. Power transmits through what I believe to be the rectifier at the back in both forward and reverse directions. No smoking or sparking from the alternator.
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Re: Suzuki SE4000SED generator with no output
There was a day and time when generators were simple. There were no capacitors, regulators to control/adjust power to magnet or ground fault outlets. Winding getting hot indicates short, however could be bad capacitors. Rectifiers and capacitors must be removed from circuit to test properly. Here is a simple test that I use to find fault area. I use a small power supply (16v AC 1 amp like doorbell transformer) into the 110v outlet of generator. This should energize the armature magnet and actually produce voltage at commutator with brushes pulled off. You can slowly pull the starter rope to move the armature into a different positon the voltage will vary. If the ac windings are shorted there will be very little or no magnet. There is a seperate 110 v circuit at the 220v outlet to test (there are two 110v windings that make up the 220v outlet, one is also used for the 110v outlet). There is another winding that products voltage for the regulator that powers the magnet thru the brushes but I think that circuit is porbably working because of the heat in the windings. You might even have 110v power at the 220v outlet. As our parents told us over and over, be careful when working with electricity. Enjoy
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Ez test to determine if stator wiring is ok. This test works on generators that have two sets of 115v plugs and 220v plug. Use a 12v, 1amp ac power supply ( smaller ac power supply should work ok ). With generator not running, apply 12v to one of the 115v outlet plugs. Now verify 12v output voltage with meter at another 115v outlet on generator. Also verify that there is about twice the voltage at the 220 v outlet plug (should be about 20v - 24v) . If the adjoining 115 v outlet plug has no output or very little voltage or if the 220 volt plug has no output, most likely stator is damaged or breaker is off. If the stator is shorted voltage reading will be very low and power supply will heat up. If stator is open, there will be no voltage at second 115v plug or 220 v plug. If voltage is ok at the other outlet plugs as per test above then most likely problem is with voltage regulator, or brushes not making contact or armature winding open or just needs to be energized. Unplug the 12v power supply after test to prevent it from overheating. Most generators have two 115v windings that together power the 220v plug. When you energize one of the windings with the 12v power supply, the second 115v winding will be energized also and give you a voltage reading about equal to 12v. You will not damage the generator with this small voltage being input thru the plug. Good luck
No wiring diagram available from Briggs. Try re-magnetizing the rotor. No AVR or Capacitor listed in the parts list.
Disconnect the wires to brushes ( pay attention to the order) and apply 12vdc to brushes. Positive goes to brush closest to the bearing. Start the generator and check for output. If output is normal run the unit a few minutes to ensure re-magnetization then shut down normally. After shut down disconnect the 12 vdc source and re-install the previous disconnected wires. Now re start the generator and test for output should be okay provide there is no problems with the alternator. If no output during the above re-magnetization then your rotor windings my burned out.
There are a few more components to check in the system. From the information provided this is not a Kohler generator as Kohler makes all their own AC alternators under 350KW, seems you may have just a Kohler engine (probably a CH25). Cannot find any info on the voltage regulator which leads me to believe it may be integrated into the main controller. Curious to know who the manufacturer is. If the capacitors are good, try checking the diodes. A volt/ohm meter with a diode check will do. Voltage reading on one side and nothing on the other. If you have no access to a diode check feature, try reading it through a battery NOT SHORTED TO BATTERY hook a meter to a battery and put the diode between one of the leads to the positive, one way will read voltage the other will read open, no voltage, or OL. Look for any fuses or breakers blown / tripped. 6 VAC on the output is about residual voltage meaning voltage the alternator makes without any help from a voltage regulator or field voltage. This usually means the alternator / rotor windings are still good. This alternator is brushless so you could seperately excite this unit via a 12V battery through your field. Look for your exciter field winding, it should have some kind of label on it saying F+ and F-, apply 12V here momentarily on + & - respectively with the unit running and you should see your output voltage spike. This tests the alternator. If this tests ok, then check to make sure your wiring / fuses from the alternator to the controller or voltage regulator (voltage sensing leads) are ok. If all these check ok, it is likely you have a bad voltage regulator.
If it's still under warranty take it back to the retailer and tell them it quit working - don't offer any other information.
If you must fix the E/G yourself - On the generator there's a cover on the back; take the cover off so that the back of the windings are exposed. You should see 4 to 6 diodes mounted to the rotor and stator...those diodes are most likely burned out because of temperature failure, due to overload. You have to take them out to isolate them...they should read .6 Ohms one way; reverse the leads and they slhould read about 1.2 Ohms. If there shorted you'll read 0 Ohms and open infinety.
Anyway, replace those diodes and you should re-establish your field winding voltage which develops you A/C output.
check battery voltage with engine off. should be @ 12.5v
check with engine running at about 1500 rpms. It should be @ 14 volts. If yes, it is ok. I think you are ok.
Please rate higly if htis helps
your system is more sophisticated than Sars can handle.
here's how it works.
The charging system consists of a generator which generates current to supply the vehicle electrical system and maintain the battery in a charged condition.
The generator is driven by the accessory drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 . When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is converted to direct current (DC) internally. The DC current is controlled by the voltage regulator (located on the back of the generator), and then supplied to the battery.
The charging system voltage is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM). The generator charges the battery and at the same time it supplies all the electrical loads that are required. The battery is more effectively charged with a higher voltage when the battery is cold and a lower voltage when the battery is warm. The PCM is able to adjust the charging voltage according to battery temperature by using a signal from the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. This means that the voltage setpoint is calculated by the PCM and communicated to the regulator by a communication link.
The PCM simultaneously controls and monitors the output of the generator. When the current consumption is high or the battery is discharged the system is able to increase the idle speed.
To minimize the engine drag when starting the engine, the PCM controls the generator. The generator does not produce any output until the engine has started. The PCM then progressively increases the output of the generator.
The PCM controls the operation of the charging system warning indicator in the instrument cluster. The PCM is therefore responsible for turning the warning indicator off after the engine is started and illuminating it under fault conditions (when the generator is not generating the correct amount of current with the engine running). The warning indicator will also be illuminated by the PCM at key - on engine off and stall conditions.