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Suzuki SE4000SED generator with no output

Generator strikes up and runs ok. There is a very minimal movement when test reading on output. Alternator stator windings get very hot but do not smoke. Power transmits through what I believe to be the rectifier at the back in both forward and reverse directions. No smoking or sparking from the alternator.

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There was a day and time when generators were simple. There were no capacitors, regulators to control/adjust power to magnet or ground fault outlets. Winding getting hot indicates short, however could be bad capacitors. Rectifiers and capacitors must be removed from circuit to test properly. Here is a simple test that I use to find fault area. I use a small power supply (16v AC 1 amp like doorbell transformer) into the 110v outlet of generator. This should energize the armature magnet and actually produce voltage at commutator with brushes pulled off. You can slowly pull the starter rope to move the armature into a different positon the voltage will vary. If the ac windings are shorted there will be very little or no magnet. There is a seperate 110 v circuit at the 220v outlet to test (there are two 110v windings that make up the 220v outlet, one is also used for the 110v outlet). There is another winding that products voltage for the regulator that powers the magnet thru the brushes but I think that circuit is porbably working because of the heat in the windings. You might even have 110v power at the 220v outlet. As our parents told us over and over, be careful when working with electricity. Enjoy

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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How to test the electrical system of the generator for free


Ez test to determine if stator wiring is ok. This test works on generators that have two sets of 115v plugs and 220v plug. Use a 12v, 1amp ac power supply ( smaller ac power supply should work ok ). With generator not running, apply 12v to one of the 115v outlet plugs. Now verify 12v output voltage with meter at another 115v outlet on generator. Also verify that there is about twice the voltage at the 220 v outlet plug (should be about 20v - 24v) . If the adjoining 115 v outlet plug has no output or very little voltage or if the 220 volt plug has no output, most likely stator is damaged or breaker is off. If the stator is shorted voltage reading will be very low and power supply will heat up. If stator is open, there will be no voltage at second 115v plug or 220 v plug. If voltage is ok at the other outlet plugs as per test above then most likely problem is with voltage regulator, or brushes not making contact or armature winding open or just needs to be energized. Unplug the 12v power supply after test to prevent it from overheating. Most generators have two 115v windings that together power the 220v plug. When you energize one of the windings with the 12v power supply, the second 115v winding will be energized also and give you a voltage reading about equal to 12v. You will not damage the generator with this small voltage being input thru the plug. Good luck

Oct 14, 2014 | Electrical Supplies

Tip

Generator Not Producing Power ? Stator Winding


There are 4 requirements that have to be met before a generator is able to produce power. Due to number of questions that have been asked, a Coleman PowerMate 1500-1850 with a Briggs and Stratton Engine will be used here.

1) The Engine has to be turning at correct speed
2) Field Winding (Rotor) on the alternator must be energized
3) AC Winding (Stator) must create a voltage in presence of magnetic field
4) Output passes through Safety Devices before it reaches an outlet.

This Tip will cover the Stator Winding.

The stator winding is the winding that is around the outside of the rotor. It doesn't usually move. Previously, the alternator design was called a revolving armature, in which the field was stationary (outside), and the stator (armature) was the rotating member. This quickly was replaced, eventually, by the revolvingfield configuration, since the brushes carry a relatively small DCcurrent, rather than a larger AC current with destructive arcing. Brushes were prone to failure due to high wear.

In the revolving field architecture,there are primarily 3 types of alternators: Single Output, MultiOutput, and MultiPhase.

The single output alternator is just that, it outputs a single voltage. Typically, it will be either120vac (60Hz), or a single phase 240vac (50Hz) depending on the country it was bought in. The stator winding of this kind of alternator has only a single winding, with 2 wires coming off of it. One of these wires goes to the neutral bus for the outlets, the other wire goes to the circuit breaker, and the other side of the circuit breaker goes to the outlet. Disconnect both of the wires, and use your multimeter to check the continuity between them. You should have continuity here. Also check each wire to the frame of the alternator, there should not be continuity here though. If you don't have continuity between the wires, or if you have continuity between the wire and alternator frame, then you have what is called a grounded winding. This will have to be addressed by a motor shop, or replace the stator in its entirety. It is generally more cost effective to replace the generator though. Remove and sell the copper wire, and use that money towards a replacement generator.

Multiple Output alternators are usually found in the next step up from "bargain" generators. These usually will have an output of 120/240vac, and likely a low voltage battery charging circuit as well (12vdc being most common). The stator for these is checked in the same way as a single output, with a caution on the low voltage winding. On the low voltage winding,there will be a single diode (called half wave rectification) or a full wave rectifier (2 diodes) connected to the windings. You must disconnect at least 1 wire from the diodes to check the windings, and both wires to check for continuity between the windings and the frame of the alternator. If you don't disconnect the wire(s), the 1 way nature of the diode will indicate no continuity when there should be,and may cause you to not see continuity when there actually is (to the frame).

If the low voltage winding is open, the generator is still usable for the 120/240vac features. You just won't have benefit of the low voltage battery charging circuit, which is actually a very poor charger to begin with.

On a 120/240vac alternator, there may also be a switch that turns the 240vac on and off at the receptacle. This switch is put here so that the 2 120vac windings can be put in parallel for greater current capacity if 240vac is not required. If you have 120vac, but not 240vac, and the circuit breakers are not tripped, this switch is likely the culprit. It is just a double pole double throw switch that is easily replaced with one of the same type, and same or higher current rating. Never switch from 120 to120/240vac or vice versa while the engine is running. To do so invites winding damage due to arc-over, and may damage any devices that are connected from the voltage spike.

MultiPhase alternators are nothing more than single output alternators with a twist. Rather than having a single winding, there will be 3 windings, with a 120 degree phase separation. The in phase neutral wires will all be tied together, but the phase outputs will be separated, and connected to the receptacle in a specific order. This is called a Wye (Y) configuration. An alternate configuration is when the windings are all connected to each other, end to end style. The junction of each connection is then brought out to the receptacle. This is called a Delta configuration. Three phase / multiphase alternators will not be discussed in depth here as a much higher technical knowledge will be required.

As far as the stator winding goes, that is it. If you have continuity where you should, and don't have continuity where you shouldn't, the stator winding is likely good. As mentioned, if the low voltage battery charge winding is open, but not grounded / shorted to the frame, the primary function of the alternator is still usable.

If your checks of the stator are good,time to move on to the next tip.
Output and Safety Devices

on Sep 24, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Subaru rgx3600 generator only producing 5volts


Sir take out the stator assembly from the engine and clean it properly from inside with cotten cloth moist with gasoline and then clean the roter while fixing it back mind the gap between the rotor and stator sometimes there is dirt or other material sucked inside the alternator which diaturbs the megnetic poles as a result the stator does not produce enough charge for exsitation

Aug 17, 2012 | Robin Subaru Subaru RGX3600 Portable...

1 Answer

What does a stator and rotor look like on NorthStar 5500W generator


The stator is the series of copper windings inside the generator (does not move,). The stator will have several pairs of leads connected to the control panel. The rotor also has winding however is the center revolving shaft. The rotor creates a magnet that excites the stator. The rotor could be brush type having two or more rings where carbon brushes make contact or brushless having built-in diodes and voltage regulator (some not all). You can obtain resistance reading from your dealer to test the windings in the stator. You can easily test the brush type rotor by applying 12v (one or two amp) dc to the rings and test for good magnet at metal part of rotor ( use thin metal blade). Good luck

Oct 15, 2011 | Northstar Generator 9 Hp, 5500 Watt,...

1 Answer

I have a hg 6000 homelite generator, runs great but does not give me any power. i used it a year or so ago an everything worked fine. got a lil smoke from where windings are. the generator was made in...


Hi and welcime to FixYa. I am Kelly

This is going to sound odd but.... this is how it it is recommended to field flash and inverter type generator. (Brushless) The steps are to (not kidding...) use a male mail interconnecting wire from your house wiring and plug in your generator and turn ON the main CB for 1 minute.

If this does not work.... See steps below amnual links.

Owners manual link: (Click on get manual)
http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/homelite/hg6000_1.html

Or try this direct link:
http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/support/homelite/portable-generator/request-manual-299128

This is a brushless generator... Not sure what the smoke was but... the yellow wires are for the capacitor winding. If you probe the capacitor terminals with one of the wires disconnected with a meter on R x 10,000 you should see a brief jump in resistance and then the meter drifts to infinity.
reverse the test leads and test again looking for the same result.

Next read resistance Yellow wire to Yellow Wire (Stator capacitor loop check) It should read low resistance

Also read Brown wire to Brown wire. This is the DC stator loop check. Is should read resistance.

Main winding checks Red to Blue and White to Brown that goes to the main breaker. OR Turn the Main breaker on.. White to lower left pin of 30A 4 pin output recepticle. Bot red to blue and White to Brown MUST read low resistance

These are all the checks except the rectifier and the rotor. You will probably find something during the above tests. If not... respond here and I will pass on the rotor and diode tests.

Kelly

Aug 27, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Getting NO power from the MR2 160/2 Mecc Alte Spa altenator stator. Generator repairman said he didn't find anything wrong using his voltmeter. Measured 6 vac out. I tested caps and they seem good....


There are a few more components to check in the system. From the information provided this is not a Kohler generator as Kohler makes all their own AC alternators under 350KW, seems you may have just a Kohler engine (probably a CH25). Cannot find any info on the voltage regulator which leads me to believe it may be integrated into the main controller. Curious to know who the manufacturer is. If the capacitors are good, try checking the diodes. A volt/ohm meter with a diode check will do. Voltage reading on one side and nothing on the other. If you have no access to a diode check feature, try reading it through a battery NOT SHORTED TO BATTERY hook a meter to a battery and put the diode between one of the leads to the positive, one way will read voltage the other will read open, no voltage, or OL. Look for any fuses or breakers blown / tripped. 6 VAC on the output is about residual voltage meaning voltage the alternator makes without any help from a voltage regulator or field voltage. This usually means the alternator / rotor windings are still good. This alternator is brushless so you could seperately excite this unit via a 12V battery through your field. Look for your exciter field winding, it should have some kind of label on it saying F+ and F-, apply 12V here momentarily on + & - respectively with the unit running and you should see your output voltage spike. This tests the alternator. If this tests ok, then check to make sure your wiring / fuses from the alternator to the controller or voltage regulator (voltage sensing leads) are ok. If all these check ok, it is likely you have a bad voltage regulator.

Jul 15, 2011 | Kohler Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Coleman powermate generator has no output. have changed diodes, capacitor and brushes. i have 12 volts across the brushes but no output at the receptacles. coleman powermate 0545005 5000w


Disconnect the leads going to the brushes, and check for continuity (resistance) of the field winding. You should be able to measure *something* on the order of a few ohms. If you have resistance, then check each brush contact to the shaft that the field winding is on. There should not be any resistance at all, if there is, you have a shorted field winding and will need to be replaced.

Check the resistance of the stator winding next, make sure that nothing is connected to the generator, disconnect the stator wires if you are able (label them!). Check for resistance between the leads (2 wires for a 2 pole, 4 wires for a 4 pole). If there is no resistance, then the stator is open, and will need to be replaced. Also check for resistance from each wire to the frame of the alternator, there should not be any resistance here (indicating a shorted stator). If there is, then you have a shorted stator, and will need to have it replaced.

Replacement is likely to be impractical, probably cheaper to buy another generator with the same engine and keep the old engine as a spare. Still, contact an automotive starter / alternator shop for prices.

Feb 07, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Porter Cable Generator does not produce electricity


Here are a a few possibilities to look at:

1) Bad connection at the outlets themselves (loose wire) regarding neutral, hot wires.

2) Bad Excitation Capacitor. The Exc. Cap. is responsible for energizing the field wiring of the alternator. If the field is not energized, there will not be a magnetic field developed, therefore, no electrical output.

3) Open Field / Stator winding. If Field winding is open, no magnetic field will be developed. If Stator winding is open, no voltage will be induced.

4) Generator speed is too slow. If the RPMs of the engine are too slow, the output of the alternator will fail as well. Note that from normal speed, voltage output will occur but at reducing frequency until ouput ceases altogether, usually at about 47Hz. If your alternator is a 2 pole, engine speed should be 3600 rpm nominal. If alternator is a 4 pole (most aren't), engine speed would need to be about 1800 rpm nominal.

5) Generator speed too fast. If RPMs are too fast, output may fail as well. See above.

6) Excitation Fuse has blown. There is sometimes a fuse in the excitation circuit. To check this, you will likely need to pull the end housing off the alternator. Pay attention to bearings / bushings.

Nov 26, 2009 | Porter Cable Electrical Supplies

2 Answers

Generator runs, but produces no power


If it's still under warranty take it back to the retailer and tell them it quit working - don't offer any other information.

If you must fix the E/G yourself - On the generator there's a cover on the back; take the cover off so that the back of the windings are exposed. You should see 4 to 6 diodes mounted to the rotor and stator...those diodes are most likely burned out because of temperature failure, due to overload. You have to take them out to isolate them...they should read .6 Ohms one way; reverse the leads and they slhould read about 1.2 Ohms. If there shorted you'll read 0 Ohms and open infinety.

Anyway, replace those diodes and you should re-establish your field winding voltage which develops you A/C output.

Good Luck,
Mike...

Nov 22, 2009 | Coleman Powermate Proforce 2500 Generator

2 Answers

Coleman powermate 2500 generator : engine runs good ... little to No power on recepticle ... vom reads 2. volts


Sounds like you need to remagnitize your alternator, you can do this yourself but do it like this.
FIRST AND FORMOST STOP THE ENGINE AND WAIT TILL IT MAKES A COMPLETE STOP! AND LOCK OUT THE ENGINE SO IT WILL NOT ACCIDENTALLY START.
 pull the spakplug wire off the engine this WILL HELP ENSURE IT WILL NOT START. next take an old 120v power cord and cut the plug off with atleast 8 inches of wire on it. if it is a 2 prong wire or 3 it doesnt matter. grab your self 2  nine volt alkaline batteries, try just one battery first by plugging in the cord into a 120 volt receptical on your generator and make sure the circuit breaker is in the on position. MAKE DAM SURE THE GENERATOR IS NOT RUNNING BEFORE YOU DO THIS OTHERWISE YOU COULD BE ELECTROCUTED. it is quite safe as long as the generator is NOT RUNNING. put one lead on one terminal of the nine volt and the other lead on the other terminal and you will see a small spark if done right.MAKE SURE YOUR NOT DOWNWIND OF GASOLINE FUMES! if you have a 3 wire cord do not use the green ground lead use only the black and white or blue and brown. if its a two wire cord you cannot get it wrong. tap the wires on the battery terminals a few times. this shoud have remagnitised your rotor and stator. remove the cord from generator completely and put it away from kids and the incredibly stupid for safety. restart generator and plug in an appliance to see if it is making electricity. I recommend using a true rms digital voltmeter to check the voltage it should be between 110 and 130 vac rms for non regulated generator sets. if the 9 vold didnt do it you can use 2 nine volt batteries in series to flash the field. SAFETY FIRST ! ELECTRICITY CAN KILL, YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, I AM NOT LIABLE FOR ANYONES STUPIDIY. IF YOU ARE UNSURE HOW TO DO THIS THEN DO NOT DO IT! TAKE IT TO A QUALIFIED REPAIRMAN. LIFE IS IRREPLACIBLE SPEND A FEW BUCKS TO FIX.

Jan 16, 2009 | Coleman Powermate Proforce 2500 Generator

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