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Ruud air to air heatpump intertherm propane furnace honeywell th5220d non programable thermostate.fan on furnace will not turn off in aux.mode even though the furnace heat kicks on and off. thank you for any info.Ray

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Make sure fan relay is wired correctly (G) wire. Ensure the fan on therm is not on, it should be on Auto or off.

If your furnace is short cycling because it has to keep heating your home, the delay in the control board may be staying on to compensate for the exchangers getting hot. If it heats normally, then put your attention to your thermostat.

Set the heating system on aux heat only. Fan should not be on, if it does stay on after a heating cycle, see if the furnace is heating normally, and reaching temp as desired before the heat comes off. Then check the therm wiring, pull the face of the therm, disconnect green wire (fan) and try the heating again.

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

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Have an Intertherm thermostate in mobile home controlling gas hearing and elec ac. Blue wire to thermostat connects to the "A" terminal on the thermostat...Blue wire goes to a terminal on the...


If there are only two wires going to the thermostat? Then you will not be able to use a Digital Programable stat. Intertherm and Coleman furnaces do the switching different than regular furnaces. They use the switching from heat to AC at the furnace with the rocker switch. They use the thermostat to either break the connection or make the connection. They use a heating only thermostat.... Hope this helps

Jan 02, 2011 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

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Ruud UBHC AC System - Provides no Aux Heat


Tried this on my unit today, and observed the same results, but got Aux Heat (with A setting), if the H (blue wire) connected to B terminal, as per instructions for my 6036 Ritetemp. However, in this case, when the set temp is reached, I hear the click, but HVAC still blows aux heat indefinitely.

I also have RUUD UBEA 17J10..., and replaced my old honeywell with 6036, and can't get heat pump working. Both of my units are 14 years old, so I'm thinking to replace them soon.

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THE AIR HANDLER IN SET IN 75 DE GREE, THE CONDENSING UNIT GET OFF BUT THE A/H IS RUNNING AND DON'T STOP UNTIL THE C/U START AGAIN Y GET AGAIN THE 75, MY SYSTEM IS A 5 TON 12 SEER BOTH ARE INTERTHERM


1 Do you have a digtal thermostate?
Do you have GAS ELECT OR HEATPUMP
All of the fan setting have a dip switch so the fan can be set to match
the type of heat you have

2. is the fan switch in the on poision

Oct 28, 2009 | Intertherm Air Conditioners

1 Answer

I have an old 1973 Mac 1199 Intertherm propane furnace The burner will come on and it takes a long time for the blower to come on Sometimes the blower wont come on at all and after awile the burner will...


Replace the fan limit switch. It is sometimes mounted in the ductwork and sometimes just below the ductwork in the furnace cabinet. Note where the little arrows are pointing to on the temperature scale so you can set the new control to the same as the old. Usually this control is made by Honeywell and may have three wires going to it.

Oct 20, 2009 | Intertherm Air Conditioners

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Furnace shuts off once the flame comes on.


You are having problems with your air/fuel mixture. It would be best to call a tech that knows how to work with propane. This type of problem is fairly common when using propane.

Aug 19, 2009 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Intertherm propane furnace makes popping sound when running


It sounds like you have a possible hole in the heat exchanger. Turn the heat off and turn the fan on. If you feel any air coming back out of the heat exchanger, you have a hole. A yellow flame is not a good sign. I would even consider having a service professional come out and take a look.

Apr 05, 2009 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Disconnecting green wire from thermostate did allow furnace to run properly but every time I want to switch back to heatpump I must reconnect green wire again.Here is how wires are connected to...


Try this.

A T-stat.

Orange = O
Red = R (with existing jumper)
Black = C
Yellow = Y
White =W1 (Or AUG)
Green =G

At airhandler/furnace.

Green = blower wire (usually green, double check with schematic)
(Green should not go to the HP.)
Orange to HP
Red to red and to HP
black to blue (or C) and to HP
White to W
Yellow to HP. (It may also go to a "float switch" if installed. but that will just be a safety switch on the drain pan in case the line clogs and it overflows.)

The green is typically used for the blower motor. (furnace only)

The orange is used for the reversing valve. (changes from AC to heat, is located in the HP only)

Blue is typically used for common (or "C") but they may have changed it to black due to a broken wire, or other problems.

The only wires going to the HP should be
Red
Blue/black
orange
yellow

Orange should not be going to the furnace at all.

HP wiring should be
Orange to orange or O
Red to R or red
Blue/black to blue or C
Yellow to Y

Dec 09, 2008 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

Manual Thermostat replcaement with Programmable Digital unit.


Hopefully there are markings on the old t-stat as to what terminal is what.
on the honeywell 8000 use the heat pump labeling and then the standard wiring would be
R- red
AUX-white
Y- yellow
B- O/B
C- black
G- green
There should not be a bare wire, it probably just has the insulation stripped back way too far.
You should probably open the furnace and compare the terminal label in the furnace to the wire color. normally yellow and blue pass through the furnace and are wire nutted to wires going to the outdoor unit. In the furnace the white wire will connect to the w or w1 terminal. also, you will need to set the Honeywell stat to have the following parameters.
170-7
190-1
200-0
other parameters that I did not specify, you may read the manual and make your own decision but I recommend factory settings for the other parameters

Jun 14, 2008 | Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I tried to replace my digital manual Honeywell thermostat that is only 6 months old (new construction) with a programable thermostat. I followed the instructions marking the wires and connecting them up...


Your "R" terminal is basically your "hot" and your "C" terminal is basically your "neutral" to simplify explanation. The Furnace supplies the "R" power to the thermostat and then depending on what wire the thermostat sends the power back on determines what the system does. The thermostat terminals are as follows "G" is fan, "W" or "aux" is elect heat, "Y" tells the outdoor unit to run, "O" or "B" tells the outdoor unit whether it is heating or cooling, and "E" is emergency heat. "G" should connect from the t-stat directly to the furnace and go no further. "W" or "aux" AND "E" should both connect to your "W" or "W1" terminal in the furnace, there should also be a "W" connection to the heat pump ( this allows the H/P to turn on the elect heat when the unit defrosts) "Y" and "O" or "B" may or may not connect to a terminal in the furnace, usually they just pass through the furnace from the t-stat to the H/P and get wire nutted in the furnace. Now, here is the key. As I mentioned previously "O" or "B", a system will only use one or the other. The entire industry (except for Rheem and Ruud) uses the "O" terminial which has 24v on it when you are cooling and no power when you are heating. Rheem and Ruud use the "B" terminal which is just backwards, 24v in heating and no power in cooling. This is all for a heat pump, If you do not have a heat pump, then disregard the references to "O", "B", "E", and "aux". You will have R-power on red wire, W-heat signal to furnace, G-fan signal to furnace, and "Y" cool signal to outdoor unit.

Jun 08, 2008 | Honeywell Air Conditioners

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