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One of my furnace's burners will not completely ignite

The first burner on the manifold will not ignite after the furnace is turned on. the other three appear to be working fine. i have vacuumed out the burner chamber as i do every year. it is an older furnace with some rust and corrosion.

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Turn off gas and and turn on fan only on the thermostat. Put a match or lighter in front of the dead burner. If you have air, the exchanger is cracked. If nothing, then you'll have to get your furnaced serviced, removal of the exchangers will be necessary to unplug your tubing. Good luck to you.

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

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Take the orfice out and clean it sounds like something in it

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

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1 Answer

Our Gibson KG7TC060D24B "tries" to start, but the shuts off before ignition. Technicians have replaced the control panel and other components but the problem persists, with the furnace working for a few...


This is possible, however it is possible they are missing something simple. I hope you can follow along.
1) Is this a Sealed Combustion Furnace, meaning you cannot get to the burners even after you remove the Door Panels?

2) If yes, is this furnace vented with pvc/plastic piping?
3) If yes, do both pipes go outside?
4) If yes then try this.

1) Turn the main power off to the furnace
2) Remove the Door Panel to the burner section.
3) Turn Furnace back and turn the thermostat all the way up.
4)Look into the burner compartment and tell me if the igniter glows red. If it does and the goes out with the burners not coming on.

5) If you feel comfortable or know of someone that is.
6) Turn the furnace off, remove the panel that conceals the burner compartment.

7) Turn the furnace on, if the igniter glows red and the burners ignite. Your problem is in the venting system. Most likely the intake pipe if it goes outside. It could be plugged or something is blocking it. If the burners do not ignite the next thing to make sure that is happening is that the Exhaust blower is operating and you can feel air outside where the pipe terminates. If you it is but no very strong, then your problem could be the inducer motor or to small of vent pipe.

If you could, send me some information about how it starts up
1) Main blower may come on and shut off, make sure the blower runs in on position 1st then back to Auto position. If it does not, you have another problem.

2) The Exhaust blower should come on next
3) About 17secs. later the igniter should glow red.
4) You will here the gas valve make a click
5) The Burners will ignite
6) The flame sensor rod on the far left hand side of the burner will keep the burner lit. If it is dirty the burners will shutdown.
7)About 90secs. later the main blower will come on.

Oct 26, 2013 | Gibson KG7TC060D24B 60,000 BTU 95.1% Gas...

1 Answer

Weatherking furnace will not ignite


Turn off power to furnace and remove upper panel only. Turn the power back on and turn the thermostat all the way up. Go back down to furnace and watch the burner section.

This is what you should look for
1)On the left hand side of the furnace near the burner, the igniter should glow red, if it glows red and shuts off without igniting the burner then you have a problem with the venting or faulty pressure switch.

2) If it does not glow red but you have power to the furnace, the ignitier is most likely cracked.

Oct 23, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Furnace burners won't ignite


Assuming this is a gas furnace, when the thermostat calls for heat the pilot heats an igniter to produce voltage that opens the burner gas valve. In your furnace, the igniter may have failed and the burner can't fire up

Mar 09, 2013 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer

Turn main furnace switch on, combustion air fan comes on and main circulation fan comes on. About 40 seconds later the igniter lites, two burners closest to the igniter fire up and immediatly snuff out....


Hello, if all the burners are not firing up then they must be cleaned out, usually dirt gets in the crossover parts of the burner and the gas cant flow to all the burners and therefore the flame sensor will turn off the furnace for safety. Clean the burners out this should fix the problem.

Feb 25, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

The furnace will light up and the fan will blow but the flames cut out before my house reaches temp. i have the thermostat set at 70 and the house will not get above 55. i have tried turning the propane...


First, for those of you who might not know, "What is a flame sensor?" A flame sensor is a safety device. When your furnace's main burners ignite (light Up) the flame sensor picks up the heat from the furnace's main burning and says, "YES," and sends a signal back to the main furnace control board saying that it is OK to let the main burner stay on. Or if the main burners do not ignite, the flame sensor does not pick up the heat and says, "NO" to the main control board, Shut That Gas Valve and Main Burners Down! Thank God we have safety controls like the flame sensor. Most of the time, after turning your furnace's power off, you may clean the flame sensors with light sand cloth, emery cloth or steel wool. Reinstall the flame sensor and you are back in business! Over the years flame sensors can build up a light coating of burned-in dust and dirt. This insulates the flame sensor so that it doesn't sense the heat of the flame well enough, so by cleaning it you have almost restored it to its new condition. Seldom, but sometimes they do go out completely.

Dec 08, 2010 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Bryant Gas Heater goes into ignition lockout daily.


First of all try cleaning all the components inside the burner assembly, including the ignitor and the flame sensor.Try cleaning flame sensor well with steel wool or sandpaper. after cleaning check out.if the problem is same then, check out whether the manual gas shut-off valve is on and not off, and the gas lines leading up to and inside the unit all seem unmoved and undamaged. If everything is proper then remove cover from burner compartment and re-try. If ignition is successful, check for leaky ignitor gasket, or look CLOSELY for webbing inside far-right burner. It can also be caused if there is low gas presure, or a bad gas valve. That has to be checked.
To remove and replace/check the burner .follow this instructions

(These instructions apply to an upflow installation. Turn 90* in appropriate direction for horizontal orientation. Only perform these steps if you are sufficiently qualified.) Turn off power & gas supply, loosen nearest union BETWEEN gas **** & furnace. Remove wires from gas control, noting where each one belongs. Remove cover from burner enclosure & remove 2 screws securing manifold to enclosure. Lift upward/outward to disengage manifold from enclosure & carefully move aside. Remove screws securing burner set, remove burners. Inspect burners for debris in passage and runner slots. Check manifold orifices for blockage (ants?), particularly the one facing burner nearest to ignitor. If debris is present inside burner enclosure, CAREFULLY remove with vacuum cleaner. AVOID ANY CONTACT WITH IGNITOR. Re-install burner set and manifold, assuring that manifold brackets engage correctly in slots AND all orifices engage fully into burner entrance, replace manifold screws. Reconnect wires to gas control, reconnect gas supply & turn gas on. Apply liquid soap to union, check for bubbles (indicates leakage - correct before proceeding). Re-install cover on burner enclosure. Turn on power supply and check unit operation. Pay particular attention when re-installing manifold to assure proper alignment of orifices into burners.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Jan 10, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Have a rheem criterion II. Model


The way it lights is that the gas is spread from one burner to the next by either a flame tray or small holes drilled in the burner tubes. If the flame does not get all the way across the burner tubes within a few seconds, the unit goes out on failure. Clean and inspect each burner tube, not just the orifice. Clean any tray that connects the burners. You can use a small wire brush or tooth brush but be careful near the glow igniter as it is very fragile.

Dec 12, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a EVCON furnace DGAT070BDC. I replace the igniter control, the gas valve and the thermostat. Same problem continues: glow stick works, then the pilot lights works.The igniter control clicks...


You may have a dirty/rusty burner that is clogged or your gas valve
manifold pressure setting may be too low. Normal manifold pressure
is 3.5 inches water column on natural gas furnaces. ( 1 psig is equivalent to 28 inches water column). Pull and clean burner. Also
check and clean pilot assy. including flame sensor (if present).
Please let me know.

Oct 24, 2009 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj


A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

Feb 13, 2009 | Imperial Commercial Cooking Equipment...

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