First off, ohms, thank yea for good tip on my 1200 series Laserjet ...Now since you mentioned you know about cameras, I'll submit this question: I have an old Canonet ql/9 and the shutter is stuck and needs cleaning. My problem is getting at the thing. There is a retainer ring that's torqued in quite snugly, and without the proper tool, I'm stuck. I've heard somewhere you can improvise one ...? Anyway, a penny for your thoughts. (and I appreciate your thoughtfullness in being a contributer to this forum) Thankfully, Tom Luke aka, email@example.com
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The T-mount is a universal thread developed by Tamron which allows various adapters to couple a lens to a wide variety of camera brands. If a lens is listed as having a T-mount, it means that the lens can be coupled to your camera if you have a T-mount adapter for your camera.
A 2X teleconverter (often called a doubler) enables a lens of a specific to be doubled. For example, the lens referenced above actually is a 650-1300 lens but with the 2X teleconverter the focal length can be doubled to a maximum focal length of 2600.
I have an Opteka 600-1200 telephoto lens which I consider to be a decent lens for its very low price. I also have a doubler which came with my camera kit. That means I can increase the focal length of my lens to 2400 but I cannot imagine any reason to do so. At it's full zoom 1200mm focal length, this lens is very difficult to handle and must be used on a tripod with a remote shutter release.
It is extremely time consuming to focus and must be focused very accurately because it has almost no depth of field. At 1200 mm, the slightest breeze or vibration will cause the picture to go fuzzy from movement.
The lens is also large and does not fit conveniently in a camera bag so it rarely goes with me unless I know for sure that I will need it. It is not particularly good for sports action shots because the action will be over before you are ready to shoot the picture. With very bright light (such as the mid-day sun) and pre-planning and pre-focusing you might be able to get some interesting sports action shots. Say you're at an automobile race and you know a car will be coming into view at a certain spot, you can set up for that spot then trip the shutter when the car pops into view.
All that being said, I think this is a good lens to have in my bag without spending $10,000 plus for a really good lens of this size.
There are several possible reasons for this. You may be seeing haze. With such a long lens, you're often taking pictures of things very far away. In such cases you're going to get haze (smog, smoke, fog, and other stuff in the air). A UV filter can reduce the effect somewhat. To see if this is the cause, try taking some pictures of something closer (like the opposite end of your living room) and compare. If the sun or other bright light source is shining onto the front of the lens, that will reduce contrast and produce a hazy look. Use your hand or a piece of black cardboard or something similar to shade the lens (being careful not to get the object into the picture). Take pictures away from the sun and toward it (not directly toward it, just in its general direction) and compare. The lens may be dirty. Clean the front and back with lens tissue or a microfiber cloth. Don't take the lens apart to clean its innards unless you have a lens collimator and other gear needed to put it back together properly. Even with a tripod and remote, you may be getting some camera shake. If your camera has a mirror lockup or exposure delay mode, use it to damp out the mirror slap. If your camera doesn't offer either of these, try using the self-timer. Also, make sure your tripod is sturdy enough. It's a heavy lens, and even if your tripod holds it, it may not be holding it very steady. Try putting your camera on a tabletop and shoot something at the other end of the room and compare the results.
1. First of all, make sure the lens is aligned properly and it's not loose in any way. The camera will immediately recognize the problem and will not let you fire the shutter.
2. Allow your lens to auto focus on an object (preferably something that's on your wall). See if it detects the object when you half press the shutter, and once it does press it down all the way.
3. If this is still not the case, the lens itself may be causing the problem. Make sure your camera is compatible with the lens (though most Canon lens are compatible with the EF-S series, it's still wise to check in Canon.com)
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Err 99 could mean several different things, such as... Memory Card, Lens or Lens contacts.... Here's what you can try: Remove the memory card an enable "shooting with out memory card" and see if you still get the error. If it works your memory card is bad.Try another lens if you can. Clean the lens contacts with a pencil eraser (be careful not to get eraser dust in the camera body or in the lens). Worst case scenario is, Err 99 could be related to the shutter failing which would mean a trip to Canon. Thank you for using Fixya!
It is an inexpensive lens. It's actually a 650-1300mm lens with a 2x tele-extender to take it out to 2600mm. It's slow, manual focus, without any form of image stabilization, and with no electronics so setting the exposure is also manual. It won't be as sharp as a Canon 600mm lens, for example, but it is a lot cheaper. Also bear in mind that the 2x tele-extender will cost an additional 2 stops of exposure, so with it attached the the already slow lens becomes a very slow lens, giving a very dark view through the viewfinder.
this is a good lens, barring any drop damage, try cleaning the contacts on both the lens and the camera body with a q-tip and a rubbing alcohol. Of course, double check the AF/M settting on the lens and camera (i've bumped to the off position B4 and not realized)
Please attache lens to your camera and set your camera to AV mode and set max. appeture 22 or more and front right side of camera there bottom edge of lens mount ring there is small black button.
press that button with shutter button and put your camera under light and press both button and check lens shutter is opening and closing properly if not and you getting err99
then lens diaphrm unit is faulty you need to replace it.
I'm not sure if you mean the lens barrier on the out side of the camera, the shutter that takes the picture or the high speed shutter. If the outside barrier is sticky, it may have water soluble stuff on it like jam or syrup. I clean this area very carefully with a Q-tip moistened with ONE drop of lens cleaner. Carefully clean by pushing the barrier back into the lens sideways, gently, and cleaning under the edge of the lens cover slightly. This is easier to do if you remove the batteries from the camera with the lens out. Caution - you CAN jam the lens barriers. You can pop out the barriers. I suggest getting a shop to look at it.
You will likely need to shoot wide open aperature in order to get the shutter speed to the 1/250 or faster range. It also depends on ISO obviously, but if you use 1/250 and f 2.8 or maybe 3, you should be able to set ISO at 800, 1000, or 1200. A bit faster than 1/250 is nice, depending on the sport. 1/500 will work with just about all sports (except race cars...). Don't forget that the IS on the lens really gets you nothing here. You aren't so concerned with camera shake, you are concerned with subject motion. Use automatic white balance, unless you know for certain the color temp of the lights.
I always give a plug to Ken Rockwell when I answer a camera question. He won't have any good tips for sports, but he has a great general photo website. www.kenrockwell.com
You didn't mention whether your Rebel was a film version or digital, but as best I can see from the manuals they are quite similar with regards to your question.
The camera does have a light metering function, but you won't see a needle like some of the older film cameras had. Instead, you will see in the viewfinder the shutter speed and the aperture settings. For example, 500 4.5 would indicate that the camera has determined that the shutter speed will be 1/500th of a second and the aperture f/4.5 to properly expose the shot. Depending on what mode you are in, you can control one or both of these numbers. If either number (or both) are flashing, it indicates that the shot will be overexposed or underexposed, and you must take some type of corrective action that the camera cannot do itself with the current mode settings.
Canon has manuals available online for all the digital Rebels and many of the film Rebels. See this link. Select EOS (SLR) Camera Systems in the top box, and choose the appropriate categories in the next two boxes, then click Go.