First off, ohms, thank yea for good tip on my 1200 series Laserjet ...Now since you mentioned you know about cameras, I'll submit this question: I have an old Canonet ql/9 and the shutter is stuck and needs cleaning. My problem is getting at the thing. There is a retainer ring that's torqued in quite snugly, and without the proper tool, I'm stuck. I've heard somewhere you can improvise one ...? Anyway, a penny for your thoughts. (and I appreciate your thoughtfullness in being a contributer to this forum) Thankfully, Tom Luke aka, firstname.lastname@example.org
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A few suggestions: The mirror lock up function has been activated. The sensor cleaning mode has been activated, doing this the camera as soon as you trip the shutter the mirror will come up and all other functions of the camera are inoperable. the mirror will stay in that position until it runs out of battery or you turn it off. The part you said about having to removing the battery doesn't make scents for this function though. Sensor cleaning is in the Custom Functions. I know you said regardless of lenses and batteries how long do you wait before shutting the camera off and removing the battery? I know that's a question and we aren't suppose to answer a question with a question but the reason I'm asking is that the Canon 40D has a long 30 second shutter speed and a "bulb" setting. It is possible that the camera has been set to "AV" and the shutter is timing out, OR it's been turned to BULB and that mirror will stay there until the camera battery is dead before it drops. Couple things to check out before the next thing I'd think about is the amount of shutter actuation. The Canon 40D has a shutter good for 100,000 clicks/actuation. Sounds like a lot but if you are doing time laps or extended video it's very possible to blow the shutter out of these.
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This "err 30" has been quite popular with the 50D as there were several batches manufactured with problematic shutters. This is a shutter failing to open when you take a picture. Canon is aware of this and I have personally sent mine that was even 4 months past out of warranty and it was promptly taken cared of.
Anyhow, I have corrected another 50D using these steps: (Note: Your mileage may vary, I can't even believe how simple the solution was. So, It might not work for all.)
1.) Be in a clean, minimal dust environment with no fans and good lighting.
2.) Do a mirror lock-up (Press button with gray dot left of viewfinder) then turn off camera.
3.) Remove lens from camera body. If you can see the sensor (greenish rectangular flat), send your camera to a Canon Facility for a warranty repair. If not, continue to step 4.
4.) If you see that the shutter (4 lines of black thin film over-lapping each other's tips lengthwise) is closed. Turn camera on.
5.) Find "Sensor Cleaning" from on of the "Wrench" tab menu. Select "Clean Manually", follow camera instructions. i.e "Turn off after manually cleaning..." (Very important!)
6.) While camera is off, attach lens. Turn on camera. Do a mirror lock-up. You should see something on the LCD screen now. Take a picture.
7.) Snap a picture again. This time the mirror would have gone down (so you can use the viewfinder) and the shutter should have opened. The camera should then operate normally.
You will likely need to shoot wide open aperature in order to get the shutter speed to the 1/250 or faster range. It also depends on ISO obviously, but if you use 1/250 and f 2.8 or maybe 3, you should be able to set ISO at 800, 1000, or 1200. A bit faster than 1/250 is nice, depending on the sport. 1/500 will work with just about all sports (except race cars...). Don't forget that the IS on the lens really gets you nothing here. You aren't so concerned with camera shake, you are concerned with subject motion. Use automatic white balance, unless you know for certain the color temp of the lights.
I always give a plug to Ken Rockwell when I answer a camera question. He won't have any good tips for sports, but he has a great general photo website. www.kenrockwell.com
Canon EOS cameras manufactured in the late 1980s to early 1990s have an internal foam bumper for the shutter curtain which deteriorates with time, breaking down into an oily black tar. The tar oozes down and gets onto the shutter blades, causing them to stick. This results in the shutter either failing to open altogether or opening too slowly, resulting in blank or unexposed photographs.
cleaning procedure. Take a cotton swab and put a tiny bit of isopropyl alcohol or lighter fluid on it. Don’t drench it - you just want it slightly moist. Rub the tip of the swab on the oily patch, back and forth extremely lightly. You don’t want to apply any pressure, as the shutter curtain is fragile and easily bent and destroyed. Keep lightly rubbing the swab back and forth until the oil is entirely gone. Alcohol is a weaker solvent and so it may take a minute or two of gentle movement to dissolve the oil. Remember to do both sides of the shutter - you’ll have to move the mirror upwards to get the inner side, so don’t get any fingerprints on it. The easiest way to do this is to set the camera into mirror lockup mode (assuming your camera has the ability) and starting the self-timer.
That should fix the camera for the time being. Of course, the foam bumper is still there and continuing to degrade, so you’ll have to do this cleaning every now and again unless you pay to have it replaced. How often depends on your camera. Mine has gone for a year since the last cleaning without problems.
If the camera still "operates normally" with recorded pictures while they are all black, you try to select CMOS Cleaning to see if the shutter really opens or not.
If not, a plastic lever operates the first set of curtains had broken. This could be common for all plastic shutter except EOS 1 series which use metal.