Don't run it with the head off! the cylinder will just up and down with the piston and ruin the seals again. I have three Craftsman compressors in my shop and I've torn them all down at least twice. Rather than pay for the kit, I went to NAPA and got a roll of cork gasket material and made my own seals. They don't last as long but they work great.
I'd be willing to bet your seal it just too tight. I made this mistake the first time around too. it's not a very good design as the piston tilts through the stroke. I would try putting a light coat of heavy weight oil on the cylinder wall and move the piston by hand to lube the seal.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Some of the things for you to check are for any leaks anywhere, the valve plate assembly, the piston and cylinder assembly and the con-rod. If you have any leaks that let air out as fast as the piston is trying to pump it in you won't get any compressed air. Check the drain valve on the bottom of the tank and the air line from the pump to the tank. If any of the reeds on the valve plate assembly are bent or broken they won't seal the way they need to in order to compress air. If the cylinder is badly scored or the piston rings are scored or broken the piston won't pump compressed air into the tank. If the con-rod is broke the piston won't work at all.
Sources of noise from craftsman oil free compressors (could be Made by Campbell Hausfeld or Porter Cable) include loose fan, failing bearing/s on the piston rod and housing, failing seal ring on piston, air filter intake and loose motor mounts. With the housing cover off, check the fan blade for cracks or loose screw. Turn motor by hand till the piston is at top of stroke. Examine the cylinder for scratches close to top. If scratched, air is leaking past vinyl ring making noise and causing longer fill time. If everything looks ok, suspect noise coming from bearings. Hard to tell if bearings are failing by looking at them. I have seen many failures of the piston bearing on the crank (fairly easy to change, I use alternator bearing from auto parts ) , however, the bearing in the housing just behind the crank bearing is much harder to replacable. Good luck with your fix-it project.
Your unit should fill within 5 min. Compressor may have worn cylinder (assuming oil-less) , worn valves or just leaking. Easy test. Spray soapy water on all connections/fittings including drain valve and regulator while compressor is running. Repair as needed. If no leaks, remove plug from outlet, remove cover and examine cylinder. Turn crank by hand till piston is all the way up into cylinder. Examine carefully the condition of the cylinder close to top. If the cylinder is scratched or worn then pressure is leaking between piston/cylinder and will not fill tank properly. Replacement cylinder kit available at Sears, cost under $50. If no leaks and the cylinder looks good, then valve plate may have broken gasket or reed valves. Replace as needed. Good luck with your project.
Your unit should fill within 5 min. Compressor may have worn cylinder or just leaking. Easy test. Spray soapy water on all connections/fittings including drain valve and regulator while compressor is running. Repair as needed. If no leaks, remove plug from outlet, remove cover and examing cylinder. Turn crank by hand till piston is all the way up into cylinder. Examing carefully the condition of the cylinder close to top. If the cylinder is scratched or worn then pressure is leaking between piston/cylinder and will not fill tank. Replace cylinder kit available at Sears, cost under $50. Good luck with your project.
i have the same piece of junk, iv rebuilt it 3 times in the past 5 years always a piston rod snapped and then it was running on only one. they are built like ****. anyhow I finely got smart and bought a cast iron pump thats not only quieter but puts out twice the volume of air in half the time. it took some work but it was well worth it costing under 200.00. the rebuild kit from sears will cost over 100 and it wont last. the one from sears is a direct drive pump and you will be told no one makes a direct bolt on but all it takes is cutting the aluminum housing away from the motor and welding a pin or bolt to the end of the shaft and putting a pully on it, you will also have to turn the motor to the side but let me tell you this was the best move i ever made. you can pick I bought my new pump from a place called heavy dudy air in ga. 877-447-2485
Most oilless compressors suffer from a short lifespan of the cylinder and piston ring. Unplug the unit and remove the cover to expose the cylinder and rod. Move piston to topmost position and examine the condition of the cylinder. If you see scratches or worn areas close to the top of the cyl. then most likely will need rebuild kit. (Not expensive) If cylinder looks good, remove the head and check the reed valves for debris or broken reed. Reed valve plate is also available as part with gaskets. To extend the life of an oilless compressor try not to use it in dusty or sandy areas as the bottom of the unit is open and tends to **** dirt into cylinder. Good Luck.
My air compressor builds up to 40 psi and just keeps running, i have a craftsman 5 GAL, 1HP, 125 PSI and pressure goes up to 40 psi and dose not go any higher and on the other hand engine keeps running and dose not stop. Please advise?