- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You have not supplied the make or model of your fridge and so I can only offer a generic response.
Most ice-makers, chilled water dispensers are reliant upon a water stop valve that make a distinctive click when operated.
Does it click when you dispense water?
If not, then assuming the ice dispenser works (indicating the activate button is working), then the water valve has possibly failed (or less likely the wiring somewhere in between).
1. A cracked plastic tube. These will leak whenever there's a call for water - either the chilled water dispenser, or re-filling the icemaker tray (two seperate tubes). Pay particular attention to anywhere the tubes are clamped to the chassis; anywhere they're routed near or under the refrigeration unit; and near the solenoid valve - especially if there's a tight loop in the tube there.
2. A bad (leaking) connection where one of the tubes exits the water valve. Again, these will leak whenever the valve is activated.
Those plastic tubes don't last forever. I've replaced many of them for the same symptoms. They're known to simply deteriorate with age.
Manuf's make good money selling replacement tubing kits.
Your water valve on the back of the refrigerator is plugged up, there are two sides to it, one side is for ice maker the other is for chilled water dispenser.You may be able to clean it out, if not then you will have to buy a new valve.Hope this helped.
The ice maker is probably not getting water. Have you heard the water valve click on and off to allow water to flow to the ice maker? If you get chilled water from the fridge, the ice maker's water valve will probably sound very similar to when you dispense chilled water. Try the water to listen for it. Then, listen for it over the course of an hour or so to determine if the ice maker is doing the same thing. If you hear it - then there may be a blockage in the line or filter.
If you don't have provisions to get chilled water from your fridge (ice only) or notice that you can't get water from your fridge any more: Make sure the water supply is on and.. that supply line isn't kinked or got crushed when the fridge was pushed back into position. This is a pretty common occurrence. If you don't hear any water valve clicking, the valve itself may have failed or there may be a problem with the electrical circuit. Hopefully, you won't have to got beyond this, but if so - let us know.
It is possible that you have an airlock in the chilled water section but not very likely. I would be more inclined to suspect that the water storage section in the fridge compartment (below salad section) has become frozen as I have experienced this before. I would suggest defrosting the cabinet completely and trying again, ensuring that you push the water valve for a long enough duration. Hope this is of some help.
GW, the valve on your refrigerator is actually a "2-in-one" kinda setup. One water line comes in, but splits at the valve to perform the separate functions, chilled water and ice. It's called a dual coil valve... one coil for each function.
Generally speaking these are the Achilles heels of the plumbing system. The easy way to check it is this... pull the fridge away from the wall, have someone get behind it down where the water line goes behind the cardboard cover to listen. Now have someone try to get water from the dispenser. If you hear the valve energize and get no water, you have a bad valve assy. (You'll hear a low "hummmm" at the valve when it's energized)
Replacement is easy. The part number is 2315533 and lists for about $45.00. Turn the water off, remove the cover from the lower rear, remove the valve. Remove the tubing and electrical connectors and install on the new valve, then reassemble. All you'll need is a 7/16" wrench and a 1/4" socket or nut driver.
If you don't hear the low hum I mentioned, remove the cover, reach in there and touch the valve's mounting bracket and have your helper try to get water again. You should feel the bracket vibrate slightly. If so, see above.
If the valve makes no noise and doesn't vibrate, we'll have to look deeper. Let us know what you find.