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I have a Heath Zenith 6133. It is a battery operated light switch with another swith that goes into a "box with a black and red wire coming out of it... could lyou send me the manual. thanks

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The battery operated switch sends a wireless signal to the "box with wires," which takes the place of an ordinary light switch.
Turn off power, remove existing wall switch, and wire as follows:
Using wire nuts, connect "O--O", "A--A", "B--B". Both 'wireless' and 'receiver' now act as 3-way switches.
I have a Heath Zenith - d883e07.png

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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Sh5412. The red lite blinks when walking past but the spot liters do not come on. The test was ok


What test did you do? Did the floodlights come on with the sensor switch in the Test position? Did you wait two minutes after turning the circuit on? Is the sensor in the dark? If your answer is yes to those questions, then try the following:
Double check the wiring. Sometimes a wire will come loose if the stranded wire from the fixture is wrapped all the way around a solid house wire. The solution is to gently bend the bare tip of the solid wire in a soft s shape so that the stranded wire does not completely wrap around the solid wire when the wire nut is twisted. (I know that you said the sensor red light is coming on but the additional load of the floodlights' current may not flow if there is a loose connection, very little current needs to flow to operate the sensor.) (The wires should be connected something like this -White from house to white for sensor (and to whites for lights unless this light connection is done internally in the sensor by Heath Zenith), Black from house to sensor, Other colored wire from sensor to lights (again unless this light connection is done internally in the sensor by Heath Zenith)- Also check that the spotlights are not burnt out and that they are tight in the sockets.

http://www.heath-zenith.com/servsup_instvideos.htm

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The manual says wire black to black and white to white and ground to green screw. The box i am wiring into has a white a black a ground and a red. What do I do with the red wire?


Depending on where box is and who wired it the red wire very well may be switched from inside. If you want to use the dusk on and off and sensor exclusively, in other words, you don't want it switched, cap off the red wire and don't use it. If you would like it switched, see if you can find a switch that will operate the red wire, probably somewhere around the nearest doorway out, or if you have a switch that you could never figure out what it was for.

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Old timer: Intermatic EJ500 & ST01C timers have a battery. Battery operates the clock motor. Red wire is for 3-way circuit [a hallway with 2 switches is a 3-way circuit].

Utilitec timer, clock runs on 120Volt circuit instead of battery. So clock has to have power.

How to connect wires:
Black timer wire connects to hot wire from breaker box.
Red (or blue) timer wire goes to landscape lights.
White timer wire connects to white neutral wire [or if no neutral is available, connect to bare ground wire].
Green timer wire goes to bare ground wire.

How to find black hot wire and white neutral wire inside box
: Disconnect and separate wires so you can test. Use ordinary tester. Power is on. There is only 1 black hot wire inside each electrical box. Test each black wire to bare ground until tester light comes on > that identifies the black hot wire. Next, test black hot wire to white wires until tester light comes on > that is the neutral wire. Exception: This test does not necessarily work with 3-way switches since they reverse each time switch is thrown.

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OK .. this sounds european .. but as I understand it ,,, the black would be power connection .. the brown would be neutral connection .. and the red would dgo to the light being controlled .. the green always connects to everything metal


If there is no neutral wire in your switch box to connect to ,,. then you will need to get a dimmer that does not require a neutral connection.

Please Vote !!

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3 Answers

Heath-zenith sl-6107 wiring diagram


hi there the wirings colour codes for nz are as follows

OLD WIRING CODE

Green = Earth
Black = Neutral
Red = Phase Or Live

NEW WIRING CODE

Green/Yellow = Earth
Blue = Neutral
Brown = Phase or Live

============DANGER 230VOLT ===============

Electricity can kill.
You should use an Electrical contractor for this repair job,
Caution always turn off power first before touching any wiring,

The Live wires always carry power,from one point to another,
the black neutral is your return path from the live phase wire
the green wire is always the ground ,

In this example

the sensor will have four wires as follows

Green = Earth Wire
Black = Neutral
Brown = Phase (incoming supply) 24 hrs
Red = Phase Load (outgoing supply) from sensor to lights triggered

Notice there are to phases in the circuit.Brown and Red
Always treat them as LIVE or Active Power.

Brown will normally be the Live incoming power and
Red will be the load side of the sensor,

Check the brochure supplied by manufactuers or their website to confirm the wiring order is correct before commencing any installs or repairs,

Always Safety first.
Safe a live today and you'll remembered forever.



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Wireing ot lights


Yes, you will need to provide a 120 volt outlet. You should be able to download the manual from:
http://www.heath-zenith.com/

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