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The burners go out before the fan starts

The glow plug gets yellow hot and the 3 burners ignite ok but before the fan starts, the burners go out and the furnace repeats the cycle.

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Replace the flame sensor, clean the burners to ensure you have a good clean burn pattern and the flame is properly reaching the flame sensor.

Look for a flashing LED and determine what the failure code is.

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

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With the front cover off also called the kick pan, look at the burner assembly and you will either see the spark igniter (like a giant spark plug) or the thermal igniter glow red hot. If the igniter does not activate, and the drum is turning, it is either the igniter, or the high limit thermostat stuck in the open position and needs to be replaced.
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Maytag oven will not heat, no gas flow. Broiler works, clock and timer works.


Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.



Let me know,if needed further assistance.



Hope i helped you.



Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

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I hope that I can get this problem resolved. Can there be a thread started to help me through this? I will try to keep this as short as possible, I have a Ducane Mod. CMPB050C3A Nat. gas furnace. The...


say that you have the glow bar (Hot surface igniter) working
if the flame starts make sure you don't trash on the orifice of the burner, you can try to use a piece of wire or someting small to pick on the orifice of the burner, also make sure is not rust bewteen the burners gap where the flame spread to all the burners because if the flame sensor don't feel flame don't stay light up
hopes this help

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Thermostat seems ok, but gas won't flow from oven burner.


Hi, Even tho the ignitor is glowing, it is getting weak and will need replaced. The ignitor is not pulling enough amps to open the gas valve.
This is very common problem with the gas ovens.
If I can assist you further, please let me know.

Vic

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The burners go out before the fan comes on


Replace your flame sensor, but before you do that, see if you can clean it with light wool, or emery cloth, or light sand paper. It's a metal rod that points in the current of your flame.

Dec 05, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Burners go out before the fan starts


that makes no sense? the door on does exactly the same thing as you holding the switch closed and neither has anything to do with the problem you are describing. if door were off nothing would happen. if door was on ,nothing would happen unless the switch was closed. it may be coincidence, but sounds like the unit is not proofing the flame. look for a little needle like sensor that protrudes into the flame path in front of a burner. when the burners light it senses flame and tells gas valve burners lit and its ok to stay on. then heat builds and the fan is briught on. once in a blue moon the overtemp sensor trips open prematurely as soon as the burners start to heat up. it is a little wire in , wire out sensor above the burners that protreudes into the bulkhead above the burners. if it is cold and open its bad. if you jump it and burners light and stay lit and fan comes on its bad. fairly cheap and easy to replace. you may have an old fan limit switch the rotates like a spring to bring the fan on as it heats up, then turns off burner if its gets to hot or is set to low. it also turns fan of as burners cool down.

Dec 05, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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