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I have a goodman furnace model gmpn 080-4 92% 1997 Gas vave would not open after igniter came on. the voltage was 15 prior to sequence and 26 upon time for gas valve to come on. I ran a jumper from trans to gas valve and it opened. I replaced board. it functions properly now, but I still have 15 volts at gas valve when it is not calling for it to open. Is this normal? If not what could cause this?

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General rule is 24 volts to operate control valve. check common at valve to white at valve or out of board. 24 in call, less than 24 when off. sometime s these things back feed or give a false reading. voltage can read say 15 volts but under a load it actually goes away. i have seen a few ac's do this. when connnections get poor you can show voltage but the control does not work the same control applied to voltage elsewhere works> if it works and sequence of operation is correct i wouldn't sweat it. always nice to have two alike so you could check em both and see. but seldom the case. good luck

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

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Goodman furnace has normal sequence of operation but does't stay lit


your furnace is equipped with some type of flame rectification device. it is usually a small metal rod at one of the burners that the flame "blows" across. This rod tells the gas valve that it is ok to stay on because there is flame there. you dont want it to continue flooding gas to the unit if there is no ignition. Sand that rod with a piece of fine sandpaper or steel wool to remove the carbon build up and it will stay on. if not the flamerod is bad or the polarity is reversed. polarity problem is unlikely unless you have messed with the high voltage power supply

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Air pressure switch is closed before the ignition sequence causing the boiler not to ignite can you advise solution


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad ignitor what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

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1 Answer

My goodman furnace keeps lighting for about 10 seconds than goes out lots of clicking sounds


Problem: Your furnace will not ignite the gas to produce heat for your home. When a furnace has a bad igniter what I see most of the time is the following sequence of operation:


1. Thermostat calls for heat.
2. Draft inducer motor starts.
3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes.
4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas.
Solution: You probably need to purchase and install a new igniter. I would suggest that you inspect your igniter closely for cracks. Make sure you do not touch the igniter with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, roll-out switch problem. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

NATE, NCCER, PHCC,HVAC Certified Instructor

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Try the following step.....

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).




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Notice. I do not mind helping diagnose furnaces although I try to be cautious when giving advice on them. Please bare with me if I ask question. I don't want anyone burning their house down or hurting themselves and a furnace will do both.

You stated that you get a steady 4.9v then the fan turns off. Which fan are you speaking of? Also, the igniter should read 3.8 ohm's if it's good. The furnace should be sending 120 v to the igniter.
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