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Gas burner will not light up

The gas is on but it will not ignite ...

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If electric start, the ignitor is dirty/not functioning. if from a pilot light, the supply to the burner is stopped up and/or may need to be cleaned/replaced.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

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Igniter glows but why doesn't burner light?


Igniter could still be faulty(not hot enough) or burner control valve
faulty. press the helpful button and check link videos below
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The igniters for the 6 burner are not sparking. The igniter for the griddle does spark. i do small gas when trying to light-how do I get to the spark modules


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homeguides.sfgate.com > Landlords & Tenants > Landlord Problems


Dec 19, 2015 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

Kenmore gas range when no clicking when turning the oven on


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Range: Gas burner won't spark or ignite A surface burner igniter switch and a spark module activate the spark electrode when a burner is turned to the "Lite" position on a gas range's cooktop. If the surface burner switch, spark module or wiring in that circuit fails, the spark electrode won't work, and as a result the gas burner won't light. If those components work but the electrode won't spark, the problem could be that the spark electrode is coated with spilled food of is bent or broken. In addition, the electrode won't spark or ignite the burner properly if the ceramic insulation sleeve below the tip of the electrode is cracked or broken. If the gas burner isn't lighting, these repairs may help.
Range 101
See all articles These repairs may help solve your problem:

Replace the spark igniter electrode

1396454293470.jpg The spark igniter electrode-also called the surface burner igniter-is an insulated electrode that provides an ignition spark to light a surface gas burner. It sparks and makes a ticking sound when the burner switch is turned to the Lite position. Replace the spark ignition electrode if it fails to spark or if the ceramic insulation sleeve is cracked or chipped. How to Replace a Spark Igniter Electrode in a Gas Range Find This Part

Replace the surface spark module

1377098014986.jpg The surface spark module is in the ignition circuit for the gas surface burners. When a surface burner control knob is turned to the "Lite" position, it provides voltage to the spark electrodes on the gas surface burners. If the surface spark module fails to provide the electrodes with voltage, then it should be replaced. Find This Part

Replace the spark igniter switch

1396454315355.jpg The igniter switch is an electrical switch on the stem of the gas surface burner control valve. This switch completes a circuit to the surface burner spark module, causing the burner igniters to spark when the burner switch is turned to the Lite position. Replace the burner igniter switch if the burners don't spark when you turn the burner control knob to the Lite position or if igniters spark constantly even when the burner knobs are in the Off position.

May 27, 2014 | Kenmore 79012 / 79014 / 79019 Gas Kitchen...

2 Answers

The burners are not lighting Frigidaire Gas Range only 8 months


Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good "blue" arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

May 16, 2010 | Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...

2 Answers

My oven takes a long time to light and there is a strong smell of gas..why?


This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter ,defective gas control valve or debris in the burner orfice/venturri. The gas odor is going to be caused by unburned gas due to a by-passing gas control valve or a weak igniter(not lighting the gas coming from burner) First you will need to verify that the hot surface igniter is coming on(you should see it glow in the burner compartment). If it is not glowing then you will need to verify that the wiring harness has voltage to it when the oven thermostat is on. Also check the igniter for any cracks or damage and if found then replace the igniter. If it is glowing then one thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on,igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the by-passing problem. If the oven burner comes on when tapping the valve then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad. Also inspect the burner venturii and burner orfice for any possible debris(grease,lint ect) that could be restricting gas flow. One more thing you can try is to manually light the burner. Make sure the oven and burner compartment are COMPLETELY cleared out of gas. Then make sure there is a flame from a match or lighter right next to the burner where the igniter is located(it is best to use a long fireplace match) before starting oven. Once the flame is lit and next to the burner then turn on the oven thermostat and listen for the flow of gas. Once the flow has started the oven burner should light immediately! If the burner does not light within 2 seconds the remove the flame and shut down the oven. If the burner lights with the match then either the igniter is not hot enough to light the burner or there might be a restriction in the burner head blocking the flow of gas to the hot surface igniter...or a restriction in the venturri or orfice. You will need to be extremely careful performing these procedures! If you are smelling gas then the oven and burner compartment could fill up with enough gas to cause a delayed ignition! You could get burned or seriously injured so I advise you not to try these procedures if you are not experienced with gas appliances. You are taking your own risk trying these procedures and if you feel uncomfortable trying these then I suggest call a professional.

Apr 17, 2010 | Tappan TGF363 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Front burners on gas range won't light.


My GE gas range is really sensitive about the gap between the igniter electrode and the metal disc that covers the burner. If the metal disc is slightly off-center, no spark will occur. Check to make sure that the gap between the igniter and the nearest metal is about the same as the back burner.

Jul 25, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Magic Chef Range in camp trailer, pilot light in the oven works however, the burner will not light when turned on. No gas flows. Propane furnace works ok and the propane bottle is full. The surface burners...


Hi,

The most common problem for gas surface burners is that they get gas but don't light. This is generally caused by dirt or grease splatters on the burner itself. Residential-grade range/stove burners are round and have small holes around their perimeter to allow gas to flow out and create a round flame. The gas coming from these holes is often ignited by a small vertical row of holes on the side of the burner. If these vertical holes are clogged or obstructed, the gas can't ignite.

The solution is to clean the burners thoroughly. Use a toothpick to clear the small vertical holes, then allow the burner to dry completely and try lighting it again. If it doesn't light immediately, repeat the procedure

or

May be the ignitor, replaced mine and it fixed it. A gas company guy told me that is common in Magic Chef ranges.

Thanks for contacting Fixya

Jun 14, 2009 | Tappan MGF500PBW Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj


A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

Feb 13, 2009 | Imperial Commercial Cooking Equipment...

1 Answer

Stove burner igniter does not work.


Your problem is not the igniter itself, but the burner switch that controls the igniter. All the igniters get their power from one spark module that is mounted somewhere in back of the oven. That's why you are able to get all the igniters to spark with only one burner control turned on. This is normal. That is also why you are able to light the burner in question buy turning on another burner. The spark is being provided by a switch that is working. To answer your question: the igniter is removable, but I don't think it's necessary. Cleaning them generally doesn't make them work better. I would check the wiring from the spark module to the burner switch and/or replace the switch. I hope this helps.

Jul 18, 2007 | GE Profile JGSP48 Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

Gas kitchen range


Most problems with gas ranges have to do with the flame--either it isn't quite right or it's nonexistent. Most new gas ranges have "electronic ignition," a spark igniter that starts the flame as gas flows through the burners. If, when you turn on a burner, it fails to spark but you hear sparking at other burners, the igniter or the burner switch probably needs replacement by an appliance repairperson. If your range has a pilot light, be sure the pilot light is lit.

Jan 18, 2006 | Crosley CE35100AA Electric Kitchen Range

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