Rudd heat system kicking off on high temperature limits.
I just installed 6 new burners of OEM part number, the old burners had rusted/holes in them. (This is an 8 year old Heat/Cooling pack unit, 5 ton cooling.) The unit will light off properly, the air circualtion fan will come on and 90% of the time cycle completes. The unit a RUDD UKKA-A060JK13E. Occasionally it will trip on the high limit switch located atop a metal strip that runs diagonally along top the 6 burners. The flame looks great, a solid blue color and there is nothing visible that I can see wrong.
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I did not see that your indoor fan motor started. Near your indoor fan motor there is a temperature switch that is called the fan delay relay. On a temperature rise the relay shuts a contact that turns on the indoor fan motor. If the contact does not close the high temperature limit will shut the gas controls off like your getting. A fan delay relay also allows the fan to run a minute or so to carry away the remaining heat in the furnace and help cool the furnace down. The fan delay relay is normally mounted in a recessed area in the fire wall of the furnace plate. I have also seen them on the top of the furnace heat exchanger. Anyway, the fan delay relay will probably not be available on a sunday, so temporarily until parts are available, try turning the thermostat fan from auto to on and try the furnace again. By turning on the fan to on the high temp limit will not shut you down again.
I have had high temp limit change there trip points, but you said you bypassed it and did the same thing.
Another cause could be using the wrong type of air filter. The new pleated filters sold block to much air flow. If air mass flow rate drops the difference in temperatur go up and when the difference in temperature go up, it gets nearer the high limit and causes it to trip. All pleated filters drop normal air flow through ducts by at least 35%. To make your air duct system work properly use the what is called throw away filters which cost about 1/3 the cost of the pleated filter. Remember to either clean or change the throw away filter monthly to reduce dirt being drawn into your duct system.
Hope this helps.
That sounds normal. When the bonnet reaches a preset temperature the burner turns off then when it cools down a bit the burner turns back on. Clean filters etc will help to keep the burner on longer in a cycle.
IF it has an o-ring seal drop a little oil on it, use a twisting motion when seating it, you may have a reflector/flywheel that is out of spec.OEM part number should be 4609009. Installation pretty straight foward.
If this is a standard house heating system, could the blower control switch be set too high and too close to the high temperature setting. If the temperature reached the high limit, the flame would be cut off.
Typical systems are designed with a thermostatic "fan limit switch" which protrudes into the heater (house air portion of the passages). The "fan limit switch" is mounted to, and protrudes into the duct within the burner section of the heater, near the heated metal.
This switch triggers the circulating fan to turn on only after the sensor (thus air) within the duct has reached well above ambient temperature. This design prevents the fan from coming on sooner and the system blowing cold air, which people don't like.
Depending on system design, installation and current operating conditions, the time delay from main burners on to fan on can be up to a couple of minutes.
This same limit switch, if the temperature goes high enough, will also turn the gas valve off; a fire safety function.
The furnace could be shutting off on High Limit ...means your furnace is running too hot...check your filter and make sure return air vents are clean and clear....also it can be the Heat anticipator in your thermostat...which controls how many times your furnace cycles...basically your furnace should come on and off 5-6 times/hr ....need more info on your type of furnace and type of thermostat
The blower motor kicks on when there has been a 24 volt control failure.
This usually means that a limit switch has tripped.
Most likely that would be a high temp limit switch or a rollout switch.
First, make sure the filters are clean. and the evap coil is clean. If eaither are dirty/clogged, it will partially block airflow, causing the furnace to overheat, causing the high temp limit to trip.
A rollout switch typically trips for three reasons.
1 flame rollout into the burner compartment due to poor airflow.
2 overheating af teh metal plate the rollout is mounted to, due to dirty, old, rusted components.
3 a bad limit switch.
If your unit has an LED light, count the flashes and it will hepl popint out the problem.
(locate the wiring diagram/flash code list, and correspond the flash count, with the code.)
The temperatures you mention are reacting in a normal manor. The drop in temperature after it first starts comes from the water being brought back to the boiler from the system. The rise in temperature comes from the residual heat in the chamber after the burner shuts off. I would not push the limits on these settings. Water from the boiler is mainly meant as an assist . You did not answer if you have another hat water heater.