Rudd heat system kicking off on high temperature limits.
I just installed 6 new burners of OEM part number, the old burners had rusted/holes in them. (This is an 8 year old Heat/Cooling pack unit, 5 ton cooling.) The unit will light off properly, the air circualtion fan will come on and 90% of the time cycle completes. The unit a RUDD UKKA-A060JK13E. Occasionally it will trip on the high limit switch located atop a metal strip that runs diagonally along top the 6 burners. The flame looks great, a solid blue color and there is nothing visible that I can see wrong.
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Does this unit also have an AC coil installed? Can you check to see if it is dirty or blocked? Although you are not cooling the heated air must still pass through this component. Has it ever been operated without a filter? How many return ducts tie into the unit and is each path filtered? Do you have filters in the individual return grilles? What do the blades on the blower look like? It sounds as if the temperature may be too high if you have to continually reset the high limit. This occurs when you have low air flow.
The reset button that he is talking about is probally the high pressure manual reset. There are reasons that this can trip.
1. Dirty condensor. 2. Condensor fan motor not up to par. 3. A liquid line dryer that is partially blocked. 4. A metering device that is not feeding right. If he verified all these and it still tripped maybe a bad switch. Anyways, with it bypassed what ever problem that is causing it to trip is still there and will get worse and the compressor will burn up and he will come and put in a brand that he likes. Hope this helps.
It appears to be the fan limiter switch. It comes on at a certain temp when heating up and shuts off on the high end of its setting. Once the burners are shut down, the fan continues for a few minutes to cool down the burners. The limiter switch is adjustable but it sounds to me to be defective and should be replaced. Good luck and stay warm, :-)
Typical systems are designed with a thermostatic "fan limit switch" which protrudes into the heater (house air portion of the passages). The "fan limit switch" is mounted to, and protrudes into the duct within the burner section of the heater.
This switch triggers to fan to turn on only after the air in the duct has reached well above ambient temperature. This prevents the fan from coming on too soon and the system blowing cold air, which people don't like.
Depending on system design, installation and current operating conditions, the time delay from main burners on to fan on can be up to a couple of minutes.
This same limit switch, if the temperature goes high enough, will also turn the gas valve off; a fire safety function.
sounds like its tripping a limit switch or if it has a flame rod .you may need to clean it. Possibly tripping the high limit due to dirty filter. usually has a diagnostic sheet on one of the panels that will tell you what is going on check the panel you see the light closest to.
The blower motor kicks on when there has been a 24 volt control failure.
This usually means that a limit switch has tripped.
Most likely that would be a high temp limit switch or a rollout switch.
First, make sure the filters are clean. and the evap coil is clean. If eaither are dirty/clogged, it will partially block airflow, causing the furnace to overheat, causing the high temp limit to trip.
A rollout switch typically trips for three reasons.
1 flame rollout into the burner compartment due to poor airflow.
2 overheating af teh metal plate the rollout is mounted to, due to dirty, old, rusted components.
3 a bad limit switch.
If your unit has an LED light, count the flashes and it will hepl popint out the problem.
(locate the wiring diagram/flash code list, and correspond the flash count, with the code.)
The temperatures you mention are reacting in a normal manor. The drop in temperature after it first starts comes from the water being brought back to the boiler from the system. The rise in temperature comes from the residual heat in the chamber after the burner shuts off. I would not push the limits on these settings. Water from the boiler is mainly meant as an assist . You did not answer if you have another hat water heater.