Question about Televison & Video
Looking throught this site, I noticed that you had a problem where your TV wouldn't switch followed by the 10 red flashes.
I have the same problem. Did you end up getting it fixed? if so, how much did it cost?
Thankyou in advance
I have never seen the thermal fuse replacement not fix this problem. What is the part number that you put in the set? Do you know how to use a meter? After you replaced the thermal sensor did the set try to come on at all? or was it the same exact problem as before?
Let me know
Posted on Sep 15, 2008
SOURCE: red light flashing 6 times
I found the above web site pretty helpful, too (AVForums), and have spent a couple of hours reading that thread.
Seems like the capacitators are often why the power won't come on. Also, some people mentioned that holding a blow dryer to your TV will make it come back on. According to the tech-savvy people that could mean that your "solder joins" are cracked. So when they're cold they'll contract and lost the connection,and when you heat them up, they expand and reconnect where they are supposed to. I'm not tech savvy and this doesn't explain much to me, but it's interesting, and I'm sure somebody will go "aaah, I see...."
I'll quote a post from AVForums:
"The main components that wear out are the capacitors which, with aminimum amount of electronics knowledge and a suitable soldering iron(you need one with a tiny point, preferably a butane gas powered one)and a powerful magnifying glass. This must be self supporting or onethat hangs from a neck cord.
The capacitors and any other parts you need can be purchased very, verycheaply from rswww.com and they offer a free delivery service or, foran extra fee, a next day service!
When you remove the back panel from the TV, you will see a few circuitboards and you need to locate the one for the power supply.
On mine it is really obvious as it is situated at the top just left ofmiddle. They all have numbers printed on the circuit board. Mine are2662 (25V 1000 uF) 2663 and 2664 (both 50V 100uF)
The ones originally fitted are '85 deg C' but it is best to replacethem with ones that are '105 deg C' because they will last longer.
These '85 deg C caps' normally have a guaranteed life of of 1000 hours,whereas the '105 deg C' ones have a guaranteed life of 2000 hours!
This being the case, when Philips build the sets they know that theywill probably break down after a minimum of 1000 hours of use. If wesuppose that the caps last for twice their minimum life span (2000hours) and the TV is switched on for an average of 5 hours per day overthe year one, ore more, of them will probably fail in the secondquarter of the second year.
With this knowledge, for high cost items such as this, you would alwaysbe wise to take out an extended warranty and Philips, or any othermanufacturer, should be obliged to include an information card warningconsumers of this fact!
The Aluminium Electrolytic - Radial capacitors in question are,usually, 2 x 100uF. The voltage, I believe, depends on the screen size.My 42" screen requires 50V whereas the 32" version uses 25V caps.
There is also a larger 1000uF capacitor, of a similar type, that willbe sighted close to the other two. This seems to be 25V, whatever thescreen size!
The only thing you must remember when replacing these caps is that thelonger leg on the capacitor is 'Positive' and the shorter one is'Negative' and you must ensure that you do not damage the circuit track!
If you are careful and have a steady hand it is quite an easy job butif you are not too sure, you will probably be able to find a localrepairer that is able do the job.
However, you have to beware of the Companies that offer a service wherethey come and collect the tv for a set fee, usually just under £100!They then work out the cost of the repairs and, if you give them the goahead, they deduct the amount paid from the overall repair cost.
I have looked into many of these and, even if you agree to the repairestimate, usually in the region of £300, they never seem willing toguarantee the repair for longer than three months, six months at thevery most!
When you consider that these components cost a matter of pence you can see the value of trying to repair it yourself."
Posted on Jan 27, 2009
NOOOOOO, do not buy a new one. Your problem , if you fixed it my way yourself, would only cost you around$3.00 to $5.00....
The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once insidet here will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol!
If this has helped you (or not) , then please rate!
Posted on Feb 02, 2010
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