Bought amp on e-bay Elevation DX 2000.1 , hookup to single woofer CVX 15 , 2 ohm. turned on HU , heard pop and mmmm sound , woofer cone pulling down with force and will not release than smell of burning .hook up to different woofer and woofer pulling down again and smokes coming out. Now that woofer don't work Contact seller and he said this is a competition amp and I damage it cause I wired sub in series and also claims I wired amp wrong the way the cone moved inward and denied me a refund. Volume, settings and gain set low. Was this cause.
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the best way? hmm. i would start off with some wire. Keep in mind that you will need to separate the positive (usually red or has a stripe or marking on it) from the negative (Black usually is the common color for this wire) and hook the up according to your amps positive and negative hook ups / terminals following your sub-woofers terminals. then depending on your sub woofers Voice coils (Duel or single voice coils) yours are duel or quad coils but i\'m sure they are duel (2 of each positive and negative equaling a total of 4 posts on each sub-woofer). figure out your amps ohm load handling and does your amp run hot (1,2 or 4 ohm stable some are even less like 0.5 or lower) i would run at a 1 or 2 ohm load as that is usually standard on 1 channel amps. make sure to check your wiring and if your not sure about ohm loads just Google wiring for sub-woofer ohm loads such as 0.5 ohm, 1 ohm, 2 ohm or 4 ohm loads. also make sure your box is not sealed do to the fact they are siht and cant produce sound like a vented / ported enclosure keep the size as big as you can fit in your car or truck the bigger the better. i had one 8\'\' sony sub pounding like a 15\'\' sub real loud . Also MDF particle board is garbage it causes port noise and absorbs water
I am assuming you are driving a sub-woofer. Run the amp bridged at 4 ohms. So a DVC(dual voice coil) 8 ohm sub with voice coils wired in parallel would give you a 4 ohm load. Just make sure the sub can handle at least 300 Watts Peak.
What you need to check is the impedance that you are connecting at. If you are using for sub woofers... you need to check how you wire them up. If you are using bridge mode then make sure that you have a 4 ohm load. This is possible with a single coil woofer which has an impedance of 4 ohm.
If you have a single dvc woofer, then you would have to either wire it up in stereo with a 4 ohm coil to each channel. If you would like to run it in brifge mode then you would have to invest in a single dual 2 ohm sub woofer and connect it with the coils in series thus obtaining a 4 ohm load.
If you have multiple woofers then it becomes more tricky. You can use a channel amp in bridge mode by getting 2 dual 4 ohm dvc woofers. You would have to connect the woofers themselves in parrallel but to the amplifier, you MUST have the woofers in series with each other. Thus getting a 4 ohm bridged load on the amplifier.
Connecting this amplifier any other way can cause it to overheat and fail.
What ohm is your sub running at. Sounds like your runnig your amp to low an impedance causing it to thermally shut down, when it cools a bit it turns back on. Either that or you have wires crossed somewhere. Check your wiring and make sure the load of the speaker does not fall below the rcommended ohm of the amp. Usually 4ohms mono and 2ohms stereo
your probably making your amp run to low ohms if its a 2 channel amp bridged to one channel you can probably only run it at four ohms
Also seeing as your subs are 2ohm dvc you can't wire them individually to 2ohm and use each channel separately. So i'd recommend buying a 2ohm stable monoblock or running it at four ohms. a 1400 watt amp'll still pound at 4ohms and it'll extend your amp's life span
You may have an issue with the impedence of the woofers causing the unit to go into protection mode. Make sure that the woofers are no lower than 2 ohms at the amp. This can be done with a voltmeter to check. You are better off running the woofers at 4 ohms if possible. If you disconnect the speaker wire from the amp, does the yellow light still come on? If so, then there may be a problem with the amp.
First thing is to make sure that the 15" subwoofer's RMS power rating (not peak power rating) is at least 250watts. Also, you have to be sure that the woofer is in the right enclosure. I am guessing that since you didn't post a model number for the subwoofer or the type of box it is in (i.e. - ported or sealed) that you are putting the woofers in too small of a box or too big of a box. Trucks typically don't have much room for woofer enclosures, so many people favor smaller boxes. The incorrect box will affect how the speaker cone moves due to the internal pressure in the box. Too much movement without and the voice coil hits the magnet causing that "popping" sound. reducing the gains on the 250/1 can often help.
Check the ohm of your soeakers again. If it doesn't say 2 ohm thats the prob. Keep in mind that 2 ohm can be any where from 1.7 too 2.3 but any reading on you DVOM that gives you two decimal places is also wrong. i.e. 2.17. This would mean that you have a woofer shorted.
If thats not it and you have already fixd a ground then use your meter to check the ground; to do this set the DVOM to ohms and touch one lead to a true gound, by that I mean scratch the paint and primer off of a spot you can hide untill you see bright mirror like metal. Then disconnect the ground wire from the amp and touch the other lead to it. You should read anything from 0.3 to 0.1 any higher and your ground isn't that great.
If thats not it, The only thing left is to hook the amp up out side of the vehicle away and not connected to ANYTHING that has to do with the car. Get a battery and a diskman or a playstation, anything that can pass sound out of RCA's (Maybe even a diff radio if poss). Hook it up. If it works its in the car and let me know. I'll tell you some more to check, If not its the amp. Good Luck
Yes and no lol. I sold that product about three or so years ago. That amplifier is whats called a mono amp. The outside shows two channels but they are still tied together. Think of it as a hose with a Y on it so two lines can run out from it. Its still the same amount of water whether you use both hoses or not. So bridge it if you want to but it will for looks and looks only. Note that amp is only two ohm stable so be careful what woofers you use. You will want two single 4 ohm woofers for a regular instalation. DO NOT USE Dual 4 ohm speakers Good Luck
Ok This is a two channel High Current amp. It is stable to one ohm. If the Subs are single voice coil at two ohms the they have to be wired in Parallel that means (Red +) (Black -) are connected to the + and - of another sub and then the (RED +) (Black -) from both go to one output channel of the amp. You pair the other two in the same fashion on the other output channel. If you are getting no output (sound) at all first check if the amplifier is going into protect. (Usually indicated by a red led on the unit. If it is connect only one Sub to each output and see if the protect LED goes out. If it does then you should have sound at the subs. If not check that you have the sub output enabled on the HU some head units do not come with the sub output enabled on the HU. If every thig is enabled, with only one sub connected to each output and the protect LED is not on then your amp is probably blown and needs repair. Nice thing is that MA has a great warrenty policy.
Check and make sure the protect LED is off. If it is on you probably have the SUBS wired wrong