I always use the manual settings to turn on and off the heat. I have baseboard hot water heat. About three weeks ago I turned up the heat before I went to sleep (i put the heat on for usually 15 minutes) then turned the stat down. the heat never turned off. Had to shut off furnace. Changed battery then worked fine. did the same thing today no such luck. Had to shut furnace off tonight , will be 25 degrees any help would be nice.
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handymanwire.com > ... > Heating and Air Conditioning
Jan 14, 2003 - 10 posts
My hot water baseboard heating system is a closed system. ... Could I shut off the main water and leave the boiler and heat going for ... If one is not installed, install one and rely on that to save the boiler from the damage of running out of ... I do not wantto have city water push my antifreeze out of the system ...
Nov 21, 2010 - With hot water baseboard heating, is it better to keep the heat at 60+ degrees ... a hot water heating system where water is heated in a hot water boiler and then ... by setting the thermostat to lower the heat when you don't need it on. ... Not only do I turn my heat down when I leave for work in the am but also ...
Hi Bill, after closing your thermostat, is this correct the situation?
And how far is your thermostat from your baseboard heater, if the baseboard is underneath the stat, you should move the stat elsewhere. Hope this help you find the problem.
Okay couple questions here because either you have hot water baseboards or you have electric baseboard heaters.
- if the system is a hydronic baseboard heater fed form main boiler, usually this means your space heat is controlled by a zone valve which the zone valve is controlled by your thermostat.
-if you find the zone is controlled by a zone valve than it is possible the zone valve is defective causing hot water to bleed past the zone valve even though your t-stat is telling it to close.
- first find out what excatly the baseboard is heated by either water or electricity
-next personal message me and I can walk you through it
The outdoor thermostat senses the the temp of the outside air, and adjust the boiler water temp according to what it knows is best. The reason that the boiler is running longer is the old boiler used to be constantly sending 180ish degree water to the baseboard, now that water may only be 140ish degrees. The idea behind this is to reduce off cycle heat loss, as the greater the temp difference between the air temp and water temp, the quicker you loss heat. The theory in boiler run time is this, the less times it starts and stops, and the long run times will give you the best efficiency. Hope this answers you questions.
From the two red and two black wires (and the specs in the pdf), your new thermostat sounds like it's designed to directly control the line voltage (120 or 240) to the heater. That's the usual way baseboard heaters are controlled.
Could your wires be red, black, and (old, yellowed) white, the standard colors in a 3-wire power cable? Just the red and black should be enough to control a 120-volt heater so I don't understand what the white would have been used for. If it were my heater I'd take off the cover(s) -- with the power off, of course -- and find out what those wires actually connect to.
Go to honeywell.com
Under red welcome sign
Bottom red highlighted box literature/image search
Type in thermostat model number
Click on arrow to right
Then click on the PDF files owners manual / installation instructions
It is not your thermostat, it is an airbound zone. The gurgly noise you heard was that water and air flowing through the radiator. The zone needs to be purged either at the boiler, or through vents on the radiator. Hope this helps
I currently have a 2 wire system. I have one red and one white. I hooked the red to the R and the white to the W. I had to go into the system setup using the UP arrow button and the FAN button. The first setting is the 1 setting, and I selected number 2 ( Heating Only ). Then the 5 setting. I selected number 1 ( Gas/oil steam or gravity system ). Then 14 is usually 0 for Fahrenheit. I was just messing around and that is the buttons I used and I tested it. The furnace kicked on and then 10 to 15 secs later the air began to blow through the vents. I hope this works for others who read this.