Question about Panasonic SC-HT740 System

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Subwoofer not working, blown fuse?

My subwoofer stopped working after the center speaker wires shorted with my metal cable box. The sytem shut down for a moment, but powered back up almost immediately, but now the subwoofer doesnt work..it's the only speaker that doesnt work.

Did I blow a fuse and if so how and where do I check it and replace it??

thank you!!!!!!!!!

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5 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: fuse blows.

Please check for shorted diode or condenser at power section.

Posted on May 29, 2006

  • 2296 Answers

SOURCE: Main fuse blown on CT-32G11 32" Panasonic TV, Replacement fuses continue to blow.

If the main fuse keeps blowing, check the horizontal output transistor for a shorted condition and diodes in that section as well.

Posted on Jan 16, 2008

grodenbarg
  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: subwoofer dont work at all

That sounds like defective internal wiring or a loose connection on the amplifier PCB. If you just purchased this audio system. It should still be under warranty for a defect.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: No power. I changed fuse but microwave blows it immediately.

Be very careful! Standard microwaves have 2100volt capacitors and commercial ones 4000 volt capacitors.
*Decharge your capacitor(s) before doing diagnostics*.
You are now testing the high voltage side (as it works on convection). The main components are a transformer, a capacitor, a diode and a magnetron (havent seen a triac in a panasonic residential). If you have a proper meter that can test uf, decharge the capacitor, then test the capacitor, if it reads 0, you need a new capacitor (10$ used typically, 14$ new from ebay). To test the magnetron, decharge the capacitor first, remove the spade connections, test each leg to the frame of the microwave... if it shows measurable resistance, the magnetron is bad. The transformer is not something you test as I personally dont have a 4000 volt meter. If the diode, the magnetron and capacitor are okay, then the transformer is bad. To eliminate any other function, disconnect the low voltage to the transformer run a micropower cycle and check the fuse.
Hope that helps. My first instinct is the capacitor.

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9030 Answers

SOURCE: Internal ceramic fuse repeatly blown.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount. See: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt in this case.

If this unit has an inverter some parts are difficult for the average do it yourselfer to replace, such as parts which are spot welded, not using removable connectors.

In such cases, it's best to replace the entire inverter.

Due to the lethal voltages used and produced in inverters, I do not recommend that an inexperienced person work on them.

You can find an authorized Panasonic servicer here.

In Canada, you can find an authorized Panasonic servicer here.

You can find an authorized Panasonic servicer here.

You can order Panasonic parts from
Encompass or by calling 866-779-5835.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jan 10, 2010

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No power. Fuse was blown but replaced fuse and still no power.


If fuses blown there is a case to search for short circuited active parts examples are end-transistors caused by clipping speakers cable shorts leaking or convexed capacitors but any new fuse will blowing again and again also the bridge rectifier to make dc voltage inside the power supply of the subwoofer can caused this problem

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Please check your speaker wirings and make sure it is not touching any metal part of the car body or some shorts (check the cable for exposed wires)
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Thank you for using FixYa - A FixYa rating is appreciated!!

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When the stereo goes into PROTECT mode it is due to a speaker wire having a short circuit or is touching the car chassis somewhere.

Check all speaker wires from the unit to the speakers.

First check that each pair of speaker terminals at the speaker end is not touching. Or, a wire fell of 1 terminal to rest on another.

Best way to check if it's a blown speaker or a wiring short, is to disconnect all speaker connections ( at the speaker end ) making sure the disconnected wires don't touch each other or any metal in the car. press the reset on the unit and power up. If the unit powers up ok, then its a blown speaker.

Otherwise it's a short in the wiring.

If it's a blown speaker, you can connect 1 speaker at a time and the blown 1 will send the unit into protect mode again.

If it's the wiring, disconnect the unit from the wiring and use and ohm meter to check each pair of cables. A reading suggests a short.

If you don't have an ohm meter a battery and bulb will do. This method usually works on a short.

If you have no joy with either method, take each speaker wire in turn and check with a source of earth (anything metal connected directly to the body of the car, cigar lighter main body when pulled slightly out is good)


Regards

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Jul 20, 2008 | Kenwood Car Audio & Video

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When i turn on the cd player the sound from the components vuts off but the sound coming through the subwoofer stays on??


The Sub gets it's output from the pre-amp circuit, whereas the components get their output from the main amp circuit in the unit.

Sounds like it could be a short in the speaker wiring or a blown speaker. Check all wiring to the speakers.

Check all speaker wires from the unit to the speakers.

First check that each pair of speaker terminals at the speaker end is not touching. Or, a wire fell of 1 terminal to rest on another.

Best way to check if it's a blown speaker or a wiring short, is to disconnect all speaker connections ( at the speaker end ) making sure the disconnected wires don't touch each other or any metal in the car. press the reset on the unit and power up. If the unit powers up ok, then its a blown speaker.

Otherwise it's a short in the wiring.

If it's a blown speaker, you can connect 1 speaker at a time and the blown 1 will send the unit into protect mode again.

If it's the wiring, disconnect the unit from the wiring and use and ohm meter to check each pair of cables. A reading suggests a short.

If you don't have an ohm meter a battery and bulb will do. This method usually works on a short.

If you have no joy with either method, take each speaker wire in turn and check with a source of earth (anything metal connected directly to the body of the car, cigar lighter main body when pulled slightly out is good)


Regards

Philip

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Apart from the external DC power fuse (I hope you have one in-line), the majority of in-car amps have 2 mini fuses inside the unit to protect the output MOSFETs from overloading due to incorrect speaker connections, ie, if the output impedence is rated at 4ohms, anything less than that is considered to be a short circuit, and will overload the MOSFETs. After performing the tests suggested by KaeZoo, open the unit and look for printed markings on the circuit board, something like F1, F2, the fuses may not look like conventional fuses.

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