I know this is a trivial issue when compared with appliances starting on fire an such - but this one is really annoying.
I have no sound. I do not believe my model has a "mute" or even a "volume" setting for the sound. I think it should always be on. Has anyone had similar problems?
I am considering replacing the piezo-buzzer for about $1 before paying a $50 deductible to my home warranty company.
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Re: No sound or buzzer
If your model doesn't have a "beeper volume" button, maybe you can reset it by unplugging it for about a minute or so then checking it.
If you don't have your owner's manual, you can download it from here: http://genet.geappliances.com/DocSearch/Dispatcher
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If it is tripping the breaker when you just close the door, I think it might be one of the door switches that the latch activates. There are usually 3 switches behind the latch holes in the microwave. One is a safety monitor switch that is suppose to blow the internal fuse if the microwave is started and the door is not closed properly. It should blow the micro fuse before the house breaker unless you have a weak house breaker. It will do the same thing if start is pressed and it senses a problem with the door. You say the problem is intermittent so I assume you do get it to work at times so I'm guessing most of the microwave is OK. I'm pretty sure you have a door switch problem--- either out of adjustment ---or 1 of them going bad.
Circuit Breakers do weaken over usage. It is not usually a time factor as much as a load factor. Each time a circuit breaker trips, it loses its ability to carry the same load as it did previously. In other words, a 15 amp breaker only carries the ability to carry 15 amps once. I recommend replacing the circuit breaker with one that has a matching rating. If you do feel up sizing is necessary, check the load rating of the appliances to make sure the additional size really is necessary. Increasing power to appliances that shouldn't need it increases the risks of potential electrical fires and masking real issues. Try changing it with higher amp breakers.
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The symptoms you describe are common signs of a failed (or failing) magnetron. The magnetron is the heart of the microwave oven and is the component that generates the RF energey required to heat food. Using the oven in a prolonged state with a magnetron that isn't firing properly can cause damage to the wave guide assembly as well. If this problem just occurred, you may want to go to any of the following websites and search their prices for what a new magnetron may cost:
All these sites are reputable and offer competitive pricing, so shop and compare. The first three websites have helpful exploded view parts diagrams to assist you with locating and properly identifying any parts you may need.
Magnetron prices will vary between manufacturers and model numbers. Some prices are as low as $30 or $40, while others are as high as $200. The cost of replacement parts, alone, can determine whether or not the appliance is worth repairing. If you call a repairman, there will be an added cost of labor. If you wish to perform this repair yourself, please post back and let me know BEFORE you attempt to disassemble a microwave oven. There are certain safety precautions that you need to know prior to servicing anything inside.
NOTE: Most appliances come with a one year limited warranty from the manufacturer. However, some manufacturers have extended warranties on certain parts. You may take a look at any warranty information that may have come with the appliance to see if there's anything the manufacturer may cover.
most likley the buzzer has died on you, however its not very smart to try to fix it yourself as there is very hight voltage inside the microwave even after its been switched for for a long time, if you realy cant live without a buzzer going off, brop it into a repair man to fix it for you
is it realy worth the risk of killing yourself just to save a fuw bucks, also microwaves are so cheep now is it realy worth spending good money getting it fixed ?? a new one may be the best way forwards
your transformer windings are loose and the 60 cycle frequenct is setting up a mechanical vibration, you can try and look for anything loose inside the unit, but if the transformer windings get loose theres really no fix but to live with it
I'm wondering how old this is? There should be a date on the model number tag, or an FCC IC number on the label I could look up if you can supply that.
You may have a defective control panel assembly. We routinely repair these nationwide for $32.50, but I'd be interested in how old you think this is.
Does it do this when the door is open? I really doubt that it's actually cooking when it comes on, but it is possible. If the door is open, that should prevent it from happening. Only a temporary stop gap, though.
Another way to find out if it's really cooking when it comes on is to place a cup of water inside. After it has run by itself a couple of minutes, check to see if the water is warmer.
Besides the control panel, it might be the upper door switch or mount.
You can do a Google search for my text file "doorsw.txt" which gives you good safety info and tips on how to check and replace defective door switches.
Let us know what you find.