If the power wires have been reversed it can cause it to do that. if the positive wire touched any other metel on the amp than the positive it could have damaged the amp. If the amp is screwed down to any part of the body it wont hurt it.Check to make sure the remote wire has enough voltage to startup the amp .you can disconnect the remote wire take a jumper wire and jump the positive and remote inputs on the amp. If that resolves the problem than the voltage on the remote wire is to low to activate the amp.
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Best to leave the limiter on unless you want to blow the amp and require repairs. Limiters protect the amp and also sometimes the speakers. The limiters reduce the gain when the amp reaches the maximum swing. If the gain were not reduced the amp would "flattop" which results in the circuitry saturating and massive distortion and if this condition is sustained, components can overheat or short out requiring repair. The LED MAY be just an indicator of clipping rather than an indicator of on/off. I downloaded the manual and what I have just said is CORRECT. The LED is a clipping indicator.
There is a caution regarding this amp and the sequence to turn power on. This amp does NOT have good speaker protection and you have to have the gain control down when turning on. The limiter, if you leave it on, might help protect your speakers when powering on. Most good power amps have circuitry to disconnect the speakers while amplifier is powering up and becoming stable, this one does not, so heed the warning and for certain leave the limiter ON... It just might save the amp and your speakers.
on most amp red isnt good that means it in protection mode try turning your setting on the amp down all the way and turn the volume down tell you can get sound out of them then turn up the volume to were you would to them most and set the to what sounds the best but make sure the light doesnt dim down when the base hits
first check the ground as it is the most important par to the wiring and operation of an amp. itshould be t the frame of the careand touching clean bare metal no paint! if that doesnt work it may be going into termal protection meaning ts getting too hot. you should always be able to continously keep yourhand on the amp, if its too hot try backing the gains down a little. next make sure the spakers are ired to a safe impedance for the amp. if its wired too low it might could put the amp into protect mode or blow it! most amps are only 2 ohm stable nd 4 ohm stable when you bridge them...hope this helps!
Then you must have a short somewhere , either your main power cable has a pinch or short somewhere , it is not correctly installed , your blue or amp turn on wire has a short, the vehicles battery has problems or a charging problem from the cars alternator. Try all of these.buy a cheap test light at an Autozone or Pepboys put the grounding clip to a 12+ Volts source and put the test light tip to the red power cable that powers up the amp, if the test light bulb turns on then you have a short somewhere and you would have to trace the cable from battery connection to the amp connection for any accidental grounding or pinch wire.
The size of the wire affects the performance of an amp, but the amp should still turn on. 12 volts is 12 volts. So you tested with another amp, on the same wires, and it works fine.The only thing you can really check on the new amp is the fuses in the side. If those are blown, then you should be able to (Unless the amp is fried, and that's why it blew the fuses in the first place) fire it right up. If the fuses arent blown, and you have all your power, and ground, and still nothing.. Well then in that case the amp is just bad, and regardless of the wattage, you just don't fix a Pyle amp.
hi, note that if you are not using the proper gauge b+ and gnd cable with this amp then the current available at the amp wont be sufficint to keep amp on. also try using this amp while vehicle is idling. if this doesnt work then disconnect all spks from amp and check if red lite stops flashing. if it doesnt stop flashing then amp has internal fault. if lite stays on brite then proceed to check each spk load impedance, then reconnect each spk individually. the minute red lite starts flashing it will give you a clue that the channel or spk load is faulty. cheers
Could be you have a bad connection at the battery or at the amp or it could be that you are using a battery source wire to the amp that is way too small. Is the voltage at near 12 volts when the amp is switched off? If it is then either of the two problems I mentioned may need to be addressed.
Don't forget to check and see that your ground wire is big enough and short enough and attached to the chassis good enough to carry all the amperage that it must during operation. The size of the fuse on the amp will give you a pretty good indication of which wire size you should be using for both the ground and the hot wires to the amp. A side note: be sure to keep your ground wire very short. On the order of 18 inches or less. A long ground wire can cause some kinds of problems. Good luck.