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Re: Emerson furnace is not igniting
Limit switch may be stuck open.open top door on furnace switch is round with little black hose on it. disconnect hose from furnace side and **** on it to see if it will close.reconnect hose and try furnace
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if you mean your aprilaire humidifier isn't working then open the cover and remove the 4 screws on the fan motor mount inside and check for voltage at the transformer input 120 volts and output 25.5 volts a.c., then check the control board wherever you have it located on the furnace or upstairs and make sure yhe humidity level is set high enough to make the unit run(you will hear the water solenoid click on the furnace below the aprilaire unitwhere the water line is if its working correctly),then check the humidistat on the outside of the building as they can go bad
The pressure switch is not allowing the igniter to heat up. Pressure switch is blocked or the flue is blocked. Take the draft fan off and inspect the flue. Also inspect the rubber hose connecting the fan and pressure switch make sure the ends are tight. Make sure the hose is clear and not restricted. And the pressure switch sometimes is position sensitive. I don't think it has been moved or anything. And very rarely do they go bad.
the oven ignitor has to consume 3.2 to 3.6 amps in order for the oven valve to open. The valve is a bi-metal valve; which means the proper amount of current must be drawn through the valve to warp the bi-metal and allow gas flow. Oven ignitors will glow bright but only pull around 2.8 amps, not enough to open the valve. In most cases this is the scenario. The only way to determine which is bad(ignitor or valve) is to check the amp draw of the ignitor using a clamp on meter. If the ignitor is flat in appearance it must pull 3.2 to 3.6 amps, if the ignitor is round it must pull 2.5 amps. Being a kenmore stove it could be built by frigidaire or many others for that matter,the model # indicates this, so be sure to check the amp draw if possible.I have seen many Frigidaire oven valves bad.However, 9 times out of 10 the ignitor is bad. If your model begins with 790. its a frigidaire, 362. its a roper/ge, 665. its a whirlpool built, 911. its a roper, etc. hope this helps...
the first blower you hear is the inducer motor it pushes the exhaust out. sounds like abad gas valve.do you have a standing piloit light or is it eletronic ignition. if electronic and there is no glow you have a bad ignitor
I am not a furnace guy but I may be able to give you a few ideas of things to diagnose the problem and get it resolved. First off, I assume you have a thermostat that you use to to turn your heat on. If it is a generic ( meaning : non programmable model) then you should be able to try this simple test. Remove the cover ( typically they snap on) around the thermostat so you can see the control mechanism inside. You should see few skinny wires ( similar to those used on a telephone wire) solid copper in various colors.. When you rotate the dial on your thermostat to call for heat, there is a small glass vial that has a drop of mercury ( which is electrically conductive) in it that makes contact and shorts two control wires together ad that is what calls for heat on your furnace. When the temp inside the room where the thermostat is reaches the tempertaure you requested, the bimetal mechanism either contracts or expands to reposition that glass vial to shift the mercury off the contacts and your furnace shuts off... That is the basics behind how your thermostat and furnace work ( generally speaking) If you can identify the two wires inside the thermosat that are shorted together when that vial of mercury shorts them inside it.. you can temproarily unhook them ( they are low voltage.. normally 24 Volts or less) so no worries about getting ashock or anything.. and short them together for a minute or two.. by doing that... your furnace should turn on and heat should flow.... Once you start your furnace this way.. unhook these two wires and your furnace should shut down .. It may take a minute or two ( depending on the control for it) If it doesn't..then your problem is on the furnace side and you may need to get the furnace control system serviced or replaced.. if it does shut down, then your problem is your thermostat and thats a simple replacement.. Also.. make sure the thermostat was properly leveled on its base.. The position of the thermostat ( meaning level) will dictate when that mercury makes contact and your furnace switches on.. OK..I tried to explain the works of this to you but here is a link to a Honeywell site that explains it in simpler terms.. The part about shorting the two wires together and then opening them will aid you in identifying where the problem actually is.. here is the link: http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/thermostat.htm
Hope this helps you more than confuses you..
I would guess from the info provided that you only have two wires going to your thermostat which would explain why the fan switch doesn't work on the thermostat. You can bypass the thermostat as a first step in troubleshooting. After that it depends on the type of furnace, standing pilot or electronic ignition...